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ekorz

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I finally had some time to get my HAS setup and in doing so realized I'm missing a power cord to connect to the MWP-606. It looks like I could get one from RetroArcade.us that I would connect to power socket and then a PC power cord. Does anyone have a more elegant solution? I'm based in the US. Thanks for your time.

- Steve
Grab any 3 prong power cord you have, cut it off leaving a male end for plugging into your wall. Strip the ends of the wires to a bit of bare copper, just enough to stick under the screw terminals of the meanwell. Wire the green wire to the ground symbol. Wire the black/white cables to the AC/N and AC/L. Technically AC/L is live, black. AC/N is neutral, white. But it won't matter really. That's it! You're done!

Elegant would be adding an on/off switch on the cable, crimping on some proper fork terminals, etc. Maybe someone out there sells a pre-crimped cable, I'm not sure.

But who needs all that when you could be done and playing in like 3 minutes with just a regular power cable and some wire cutters!
 

Geddon

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Quick question:
I have the HAS with a few UD Decoders and friends that bring their own fightsticks to play ST. I was wondering is it safe to unplug and plug controllers while the HAS is powered on?

For instance: if one person is done playing, can they unplug their fightstick and another person plug in theirs if they want to jump in?
I killed a power supply by plugging in my UD Decoder with the HAS powered on, so I wouldn't recommend it. Luckily the HAS was fine, but it was quite the newbie wake up call. =O
@undamned can correct me if I'm wrong but I believe there is circuit protection IF the decoder is already plugged into the device so you can swap USB cables around. It's not advised however to unplug and plug things into the DB15 ports of a supergun while it is turned on.
can anyone explain how plugging in the decoder could kill a power supply? I personally don’t use the +5v on the db15 for my fightsticks. So is there still any risk to plugging in while it is on? I have been fairly diligent but have drunk friends over every once in a while and anything I can stupid proof I try to do. I guess first I should say is get me to change games and keep your hands away from the arcade boards. I’m considering using a decent size rack case to house any open pcbs to stupid proof a bit more.
 

RGB

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can anyone explain how plugging in the decoder could kill a power supply? I personally don’t use the +5v on the db15 for my fightsticks. So is there still any risk to plugging in while it is on? I have been fairly diligent but have drunk friends over every once in a while and anything I can stupid proof I try to do. I guess first I should say is get me to change games and keep your hands away from the arcade boards. I’m considering using a decent size rack case to house any open pcbs to stupid proof a bit more.
By causing a short-circuit during DB15 controller/adapter insertion (the metal shield of the controller touches both the DB15 pin with +5V and shield, which is usually connected to GND. It really shouldn't kill the PSU because most have short-circuit protection.

What make/model is your supergun? If the DB15 connector's shield is grounded, then I don't recommend hot plugging.
 

Geddon

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I have one made by neotropolis. No idea what is going on inside since I haven’t opened it yet. So I’ll play it safe. I was just curious. I’ll probably crack it open soon though because he didn’t wire up credit to the db15 and has buttons on the supergun instead, but I want that function on the controller ports.
 

Geddon

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I can’t seem to find it, but I thought somewhere in here someone showed a picture of a switch they wired to switch from cps2 fighter kick harness to cps2 4p kick harness easily. What I want to know is, what switch that was? I need something like that for a different application. Thanks for any help.
 

XtraSmiley

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Hey RGB,

A few quick questions!

1. Were there any left over HAS' from that last batch?
2. If so, did I make the left over list? :P
3. Is the delay in making the next batch due to planned upgrade(s) or is that just normally now long it is between batches?

Thanks man, looking forward to this!
 

RGB

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Hi,

To answer your question:
1 & 2 - There are a few units on hold, I'm waiting for response from the potential buyers. Actually it's been two weeks now, so if I don't hear back from them by the end of this week a few slots will open. If you're next on the list you will definitely get a notification.
3. It' normal. I usually make/sell two batches per year, that's because I only work on this in my spare time and I need a break between the batches.
 

AlxUnderBase

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Hi,

To answer your question:
1 & 2 - There are a few units on hold, I'm waiting for response from the potential buyers. Actually it's been two weeks now, so if I don't hear back from them by the end of this week a few slots will open. If you're next on the list you will definitely get a notification.
3. It' normal. I usually make/sell two batches per year, that's because I only work on this in my spare time and I need a break between the batches.
Great news !!!
 
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syntax_X

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Geddon

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Ok, awesome. Now can anyone give me a 101 on how to wire this thing? I’ll be your best friend, I promise.

I can’t seem to find it, but I thought somewhere in here someone showed a picture of a switch they wired to switch from cps2 fighter kick harness to cps2 4p kick harness easily. What I want to know is, what switch that was? I need something like that for a different application. Thanks for any help
https://i.imgur.com/1wT36Cb.jpghttps://au.rs-online.com/web/p/slide-switches/7831117/

Be sure to label all wires carefully both ends before fitting the switch.
 

sammargh

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Ok, awesome. Now can anyone give me a 101 on how to wire this thing? I’ll be your best friend, I promise.

I can’t seem to find it, but I thought somewhere in here someone showed a picture of a switch they wired to switch from cps2 fighter kick harness to cps2 4p kick harness easily. What I want to know is, what switch that was? I need something like that for a different application. Thanks for any help
https://i.imgur.com/1wT36Cb.jpghttps://au.rs-online.com/web/p/slide-switches/7831117/
Be sure to label all wires carefully both ends before fitting the switch.
https://docs-apac.rs-online.com/webdocs/122a/0900766b8122a358.pdf

You will want to focus on the "6PDT" wiring schematic. Basically you need the wires that normally would go to 3P/4P that overlap with 2P 6B to go into "1", the wires from the HAS 2P 6B to "2" and then the output to 1/2 on the CPS2 connector
 

syntax_X

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Its pretty straight forward.

Get the blue cable and label the wires 1A to 6A. Cut the CPS2 side plug off.

For the white wires Label the CPS2 end as 1B to 6B and the HAS end 1C to 6C

The switch is wired like this picture.
Im lazy and only labelled one side but you get the idea.

8H32pz4.jpg


When cutting the white cable only cut 1 wire at a time, so the cable lengths are staggered.
This way you end up with a nice tight bunch of wires that have an unaltered length compared to the ones we didn't cut.
Ill let you guys figure out how to get the heatshrink over it :P
ZbbtZWo.png

twP1rci.jpg
 
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syntax_X

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That means a lot coming to me from the guy that's made the highest quality product ive laid my hands on in years.

Top tier parts used through HAS, not a single rubbish component. Thanks again!
 

strygo

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I finally had some time to get my HAS setup and in doing so realized I'm missing a power cord to connect to the MWP-606. It looks like I could get one from RetroArcade.us that I would connect to power socket and then a PC power cord. Does anyone have a more elegant solution? I'm based in the US. Thanks for your time.
I came across a product by ProgressiveRC that is perfect for it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CDA0ITS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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