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Buster Bros and Super Buster Bros both refuse to sync with the Taito scaler as well, same rolling effect if it locks at all.
I can get them to work on the OSSC by passing unbuffered 75ohm sync via 8pin mini-din/SCART connector from the HAS.
I only tested the HD15/VGA connector once, but it also wouldn't sync (who knows if I had continued to play with the options if it would have locked).

Using a HAS + OSSC + iScan DVDO VP30 + Vewlix Diamond
opmG4h0.jpg


Ninja Gaiden however will sync with all my scalers (Taito, OSSC, xRGB, etc etc) so I don't think it uses a very offspec sync at all (unlike Buster Bros).
 
Ok, sweet we have some of the same boards! I decided to split the sync off my supergun and that works fine. Gives me the rgb boost from the rxi and the h/v display. So maybe I’ll just leave it like that, I have this weird issue with buster bros where it fades away after a few seconds on one of my Olympus oev203s. On the other one it is fine. If I switch inputs on the monitor to something else then back to rgb it shows again and starts fading out again. Have you heard of that issue? It is not a big deal since I have the other monitors but it is a mystery to me and I’ve heard of similar issues others have had.
 
Geddon said:
If I switch inputs on the monitor to something else then back to rgb it shows again and starts fading out again. Have you heard of that issue?
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I remember someone posting something similar about a Blast City (Nanao 2930) and a VGA device (possibly a Dreamcast)?
I've never personally experienced it, and that above detail was from so long ago I might be incorrect about the VGA source or other key information.

All I can say for sure, Buster/Super Buster produces strange syncs that most scalers do not like/won't lock.
Just another mention while I'm thinking of it... Captain America and the Avengers wouldn't sync on Taito, but works on both xRGB mini and OSSC.
 
RGB, I just watched Smoke Monster's You Tube vid and I'm interested in ordering the HAS. Please add me to your presale list when more become available, thanks! I own a JNX supergun, are your Saturn to Jamma joypad converters compatible with those units as well?
 
Depends on how James wired them, but I'm 99.9% sure JNX supergun uses normal/standard "supergun" DB15 pinout.
db15_laugh.PNG


So yea, most likely works.
 
Lucky me my first two cps2 games showed up and my harness showed up on the same day. Next up the multi and the 3p/4p has board to fill out all cps2 can do. And I probably should change this battery since it was last changed in 2010.
 

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ChopstickSamurai said:
Azu said:
Quick question:
I have the HAS with a few UD Decoders and friends that bring their own fightsticks to play ST. I was wondering is it safe to unplug and plug controllers while the HAS is powered on?

For instance: if one person is done playing, can they unplug their fightstick and another person plug in theirs if they want to jump in?
Click to expand...
I killed a power supply by plugging in my UD Decoder with the HAS powered on, so I wouldn't recommend it. Luckily the HAS was fine, but it was quite the newbie wake up call. =O
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@undamned can correct me if I'm wrong but I believe there is circuit protection IF the decoder is already plugged into the device so you can swap USB cables around. It's not advised however to unplug and plug things into the DB15 ports of a supergun while it is turned on.
 
I finally had some time to get my HAS setup and in doing so realized I'm missing a power cord to connect to the MWP-606. It looks like I could get one from RetroArcade.us that I would connect to power socket and then a PC power cord. Does anyone have a more elegant solution? I'm based in the US. Thanks for your time.

- Steve
 
strygo said:
I finally had some time to get my HAS setup and in doing so realized I'm missing a power cord to connect to the MWP-606. It looks like I could get one from RetroArcade.us that I would connect to power socket and then a PC power cord. Does anyone have a more elegant solution? I'm based in the US. Thanks for your time.

- Steve
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Grab any 3 prong power cord you have, cut it off leaving a male end for plugging into your wall. Strip the ends of the wires to a bit of bare copper, just enough to stick under the screw terminals of the meanwell. Wire the green wire to the ground symbol. Wire the black/white cables to the AC/N and AC/L. Technically AC/L is live, black. AC/N is neutral, white. But it won't matter really. That's it! You're done!

Elegant would be adding an on/off switch on the cable, crimping on some proper fork terminals, etc. Maybe someone out there sells a pre-crimped cable, I'm not sure.

But who needs all that when you could be done and playing in like 3 minutes with just a regular power cable and some wire cutters!
 
sammargh said:
ChopstickSamurai said:
Azu said:
Quick question:
I have the HAS with a few UD Decoders and friends that bring their own fightsticks to play ST. I was wondering is it safe to unplug and plug controllers while the HAS is powered on?

For instance: if one person is done playing, can they unplug their fightstick and another person plug in theirs if they want to jump in?
Click to expand...
I killed a power supply by plugging in my UD Decoder with the HAS powered on, so I wouldn't recommend it. Luckily the HAS was fine, but it was quite the newbie wake up call. =O
Click to expand...
@undamned can correct me if I'm wrong but I believe there is circuit protection IF the decoder is already plugged into the device so you can swap USB cables around. It's not advised however to unplug and plug things into the DB15 ports of a supergun while it is turned on.
Click to expand...
can anyone explain how plugging in the decoder could kill a power supply? I personally don’t use the +5v on the db15 for my fightsticks. So is there still any risk to plugging in while it is on? I have been fairly diligent but have drunk friends over every once in a while and anything I can stupid proof I try to do. I guess first I should say is get me to change games and keep your hands away from the arcade boards. I’m considering using a decent size rack case to house any open pcbs to stupid proof a bit more.
 
Geddon said:
can anyone explain how plugging in the decoder could kill a power supply? I personally don’t use the +5v on the db15 for my fightsticks. So is there still any risk to plugging in while it is on? I have been fairly diligent but have drunk friends over every once in a while and anything I can stupid proof I try to do. I guess first I should say is get me to change games and keep your hands away from the arcade boards. I’m considering using a decent size rack case to house any open pcbs to stupid proof a bit more.
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By causing a short-circuit during DB15 controller/adapter insertion (the metal shield of the controller touches both the DB15 pin with +5V and shield, which is usually connected to GND. It really shouldn't kill the PSU because most have short-circuit protection.

What make/model is your supergun? If the DB15 connector's shield is grounded, then I don't recommend hot plugging.
 
I have one made by neotropolis. No idea what is going on inside since I haven’t opened it yet. So I’ll play it safe. I was just curious. I’ll probably crack it open soon though because he didn’t wire up credit to the db15 and has buttons on the supergun instead, but I want that function on the controller ports.
 
I can’t seem to find it, but I thought somewhere in here someone showed a picture of a switch they wired to switch from cps2 fighter kick harness to cps2 4p kick harness easily. What I want to know is, what switch that was? I need something like that for a different application. Thanks for any help.
 
Hey RGB,

A few quick questions!

1. Were there any left over HAS' from that last batch?
2. If so, did I make the left over list? :P
3. Is the delay in making the next batch due to planned upgrade(s) or is that just normally now long it is between batches?

Thanks man, looking forward to this!
 
Hi,

To answer your question:
1 & 2 - There are a few units on hold, I'm waiting for response from the potential buyers. Actually it's been two weeks now, so if I don't hear back from them by the end of this week a few slots will open. If you're next on the list you will definitely get a notification.
3. It' normal. I usually make/sell two batches per year, that's because I only work on this in my spare time and I need a break between the batches.
 
RGB said:
Hi,

To answer your question:
1 & 2 - There are a few units on hold, I'm waiting for response from the potential buyers. Actually it's been two weeks now, so if I don't hear back from them by the end of this week a few slots will open. If you're next on the list you will definitely get a notification.
3. It' normal. I usually make/sell two batches per year, that's because I only work on this in my spare time and I need a break between the batches.
Click to expand...
Great news !!!
 
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