Yeah, that's standard operation for tournaments (people using their own controllers). Unplugging the entire decoder shouldn't hurt anything either, but not necessary.Quick question:
I have the HAS with a few UD Decoders and friends that bring their own fightsticks to play ST. I was wondering is it safe to unplug and plug controllers while the HAS is powered on?
For instance: if one person is done playing, can they unplug their fightstick and another person plug in theirs if they want to jump in?
Should work fine in theory but I prefer a modular approach as I have quite a few arcade computers/hardware/etc. I found that while the block terminal decoders work alright the terminals can be tedious about holding wires in depending on how thick the gauge is of what you use. For myself I use the DB-15 to USB plugs and then a standard USB extension mount like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Leader-Panel-Mount-Type-Female/dp/B00UGLOFR2/I'm debating whether I should make a case for the HAS when I eventually get it, do you think something like this would work?
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Thanks for the clarification ud. My initial assumption was the: "standard operation for tournament", but wanted to know before switching out the controllers while the setup is on.Yeah, that's standard operation for tournaments (people using their own controllers). Unplugging the entire decoder shouldn't hurt anything either, but not necessary.-udQuick question:
I have the HAS with a few UD Decoders and friends that bring their own fightsticks to play ST. I was wondering is it safe to unplug and plug controllers while the HAS is powered on?
For instance: if one person is done playing, can they unplug their fightstick and another person plug in theirs if they want to jump in?
Based on what i read and show i just grabbed one like this (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Happ-15-AM...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649) because i'm intend to use it with HAS and with Cps1 (when will be released) , Cps2 , Taito F3 DS multikits.Could you advise me, what's complet set can buy with the HAS, I will use it with CPS1,CPS2, Shinobi....maybe later MVS and CPS 3. I have PS2 stick HRAP and OSSC.
I assume that:
- CPS2 kick harness
- SCART to 2xRCA and 8pin mini DIN adapter
- PS2 adpter or xbox 360
- PSU
- RGB scart output cable
is it right? missing something?
What's kind of PSU could you advise me and RGB cable in the link?
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=92_165
First question, what version of the OSSC do you have?I have PS2 stick HRAP and OSSC.
I Have a special version, a 1.5 with digital audio chip add on via HDMI. uptodate.First question, what version of the OSSC do you have?I have PS2 stick HRAP and OSSC.
- 1.5 without digital audio over HDMI
- 1.6 with digital audio via HDMI
Please avoid the second PSU you linked (MWP-60
Ohh ... Edited ! My choice was for this -> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Happ-15-AM...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 .Please avoid the second PSU you linked (MWP-60. It outputs +5V, +12V and +24V. You want -5V instead of +24V.
So if you have a OSSC that can encode audio, you should only need the 8pin mini-din to SCART cable for connecting the HAS to the OSSC.I Have a special version, a 1.5 with digital audio chip add on via HDMI. uptodate.
The 3.5mm jack on the HAS would be audio output from (mono) JAMMA harness.The 3.5mm jack is just output right?
Same for a stereo modded MVS.The 3.5mm jack on the HAS would be audio output from (mono) JAMMA harness.For something like CPS2 you would want a RCA to 3.5mm stereo cable, and use it directly connecting the CPS2 audio to the OSSC.The 3.5mm jack is just output right?
Could depend on the mod, so I was intentionally silent on this point.Same for a stereo modded MVS.
THX. Sound from scart to HDMI direct. No need other connection.So if you have a OSSC that can encode audio, you should only need the 8pin mini-din to SCART cable for connecting the HAS to the OSSC.However if that "special" OSSC demands audio be supplied via 3.5mm audio input only (and not over SCART head)...I Have a special version, a 1.5 with digital audio chip add on via HDMI. uptodate.
You'll then need to add a 3.5mm to 3.5mm audio cable to the mix, it will connect directly to the HAS and OSSC in addition to the SCART cable.
I have the same OSSC - 1.5 with the HDMI digital audio mod. I use the Retro Access NES SCART cable with 8 pin DIN and stereo audio 3.5 plug with my HAS and it works great.So if you have a OSSC that can encode audio, you should only need the 8pin mini-din to SCART cable for connecting the HAS to the OSSC.However if that "special" OSSC demands audio be supplied via 3.5mm audio input only (and not over SCART head)...I Have a special version, a 1.5 with digital audio chip add on via HDMI. uptodate.
You'll then need to add a 3.5mm to 3.5mm audio cable to the mix, it will connect directly to the HAS and OSSC in addition to the SCART cable.
You’re right, so let me rephrase my sentence: same for a line-out level stereo modded MVS.Could depend on the mod, so I was intentionally silent on this point.I run my Neo-Geo in mono via JAMMA edge only so meh... CPS2/3 are RCA stereo all the way!Same for a stereo modded MVS.![]()
I might be wrong, but I recall reading that you must feed audio through SCART (if you use AV1 SCART input); the 3.5mm input is for other inputs (VGA and component).You don't need to feed the OSSC 1.6 audio over SCART... So I doubt you need to do that with the 1.5+audio.
You see it has a 3.5mm input, so yea bypass the HAS but no need to reinsert audio into a SCART chain. Just take it directly from the arcade PCB.