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the Goat said:
RGB,

Is there an estimate for when reservations (specially my reservation) on the waiting list will be fulfilled. I'm not trying to trick you into promising a specific delivery date.

It would be helpful, even if you can only provide a broad estimate ie. "within a couple weeks" or "before spring" or "over six months", etc. I'm just trying to coordinate with other purchases.
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I wish I could tell you exactly, but the only estimate at the moment is sometime in Q1 2019.

@HouseOfTheEd, @No onions, @benjillaz - Added you to the wait list, thank you :)
 
RGB said:
the Goat said:
RGB,

Is there an estimate for when reservations (specially my reservation) on the waiting list will be fulfilled. I'm not trying to trick you into promising a specific delivery date.

It would be helpful, even if you can only provide a broad estimate ie. "within a couple weeks" or "before spring" or "over six months", etc. I'm just trying to coordinate with other purchases.
Click to expand...
I wish I could tell you exactly, but the only estimate at the moment is sometime in Q1 2019.
@HouseOfTheEd, @No onions, @benjillaz - Added you to the wait list, thank you :)
Click to expand...
Actually I've decided to go a different direction so you can take me off the wait list.

I mainly just want to put together a CPS2 setup and I already have an arcade monitor so the main reason for getting the HAS was for controller inputs. I only just found out that the Undamned USB decoders exist so those fit my needs perfectly. And it turns out that Paradise Arcade shop is local to me, like only a few blocks from my office so I picked up 2 of those to finish my setup yesterday. So many great new things out there for arcade stuff these days, wish I had so many options when I was consolizing my MVS years ago.

Thanks for making such an awesome supergun though RGB. I may still end up wanting to get one later on, just not right now.
 
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I have some questions about the PSU wiring.

I have seen on your photos that you double the cable on the 12V and 5V, why is that?

Also, what is a diameter of the sockets to screw on the PSU for the main power cable?
 
They're high current power lines, distributing the current across two wires doubles the current carrying capability.

You'll find that it's actually +5V and ground that have two wires.

You'll also notice that a jamma harness in an arcade cab distributes power across multiple wires.

Not sure I understand your last question but I think you're asking the width of the screw terminals of an arcade PSU? I believe they're typically 3.2mm.
 
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Yes, the screw terminals, thank you.

As for the wires, why not just a thicker one?
What's their AWG, BTW?

(Sorry for the questions, just trying to understand the choices made.)
 
It's high quality 18awg wire, probably capable of carrying somewhere between 7.5 amps and 10 amps.

The JST connector can carry 10 amps per pin. Use two wires and you're covered for 20 amps which is perfect, leaves you with room to spare. Better to over engineer than under engineer.

Not many board to wire connectors will handle much more than that, without being restrictively oversized.

This is what you need to consider, sure you could use a lower gauge wire but it still needs to pass through a connector, pins, the PCB etc. It's wise to distribute this along multiple paths.
 
Ok it's me being a little cautious with the happ 15 power supply. Do I leave it a the 115v since I'm in the U.S. sounds like a dumb question to me. But just wanting to be 100% Sure, not try to fry my H.A.S by mistake lol
 
Yea 115v setting if you have switchable, if you want to be really really sure double check the wire terminals are correct.
5v, -5v, 12v, ground, match each color wire with the voltage printed on the bottom of the HAS.
 
@Frank_fjs - Thanks, for your input! That's indeed 18AWG (real one, not a thin wire masked by thick insulation).

The PSU harness for the HAS is 40-50cm long, for a longer one (over 1 meter) I recommend to use 2x16AWG, just in case.
 
Ok. So I am having issues with a pcb and I've never had this issue with any other pcb. I have a Sega System E pcb with Transformer installed. The start buttons and the transform and fire buttons are all stuck on when I use it with the HAS. If I try to use a Saturn controller with the adapter then the directions are also stuck on. If I unplug the Saturn controller and just use a Neo Geo controller the directions work. But even with no controllers attached the four buttons are always stuck on.

If I use this pcb with a different supergun (MAS Super Nova) it works 100% fine.

Any ideas.
 
@Mitsurugi-w Any chance you could measure voltage on the button inputs (JAMMA side) with the HAS when no buttons are pressed, and when you press the buttons. Also, do the same with the MAS. The outputs from the microcontroller on the HAS and the Sega Saturn adapter are configured as open drain.
 
Well I'm more concerned about the start buttons and the other two buttons being stuck on even when no controller is attached.

It's only on this pcb. Every other pcb works correctly. What type of voltage reading should I be seeing?
 
No idea with that PCB, that's what I'd like to see :) I'm not familiar with this PCB, but it's pretty old, what chips handle the buttons on the PCB game itself?

Ok, I can see it's not even JAMMA, what adapter do you use for it?
 
The button inputs all flow through a series of TLP521-4 optocouplers and then flows to a custom and some TTLs. I thought the pcb was bad so Apocalypse and I started tracing the signal back and could not find any issues. Shotgunned a few parts just for the hell of it and no change. After thinking the fact the Saturn controller issue may be pointing at something I decided to try my old simple yet faithful MAS supergun and it works great over there.

I did remove the two optos that controlled the four stuck inputs and while removed they were no longer closed. But when putting brand new optos in the issue returned.

I'm using a JAMMA adapter that was sent to me with it. Wires from the two connectors to a JAMMA fingerboard. I've already verified that the wires are in the correct places and there are no shorts.
 
I'll try to find the Sega System E instruction manual, or ideally some schematics to see what's going on there. Another thing that comes mind that is different in the MAS (besides the use of the microcontroller) is that it probably connects GND to pins #e and #27 on the JAMMA connector, wheres the HAS uses those as the duplicated button 6 output for the Pandora's Box PCBs. Try joining those two pins with the GND on the HAS side, unless that Sega System E to JAMMA adapter already does that.

One more measurement - resistance between the button input and +5V on the Sega System E (the PCB mustn't be connected to anything). Perhaps it would require external pull-ups.

One more edit: It's the octocoupler, so most likely there will be no pull-up at all on the PCB game end, the button input will be connected directly to the octocoupler. If that is the case, please put a 1-2K resistor between button input and +5V. Of course the easiest way would be to do that on the JAMMA adapter you have, or the HAS; don't do it on the PCB game.

I couldn't find the Sega System E schematics. What is the value of the current limiting resistor used for the octocouplers? Usually that's around 220-470R.
 
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RGB said:
I'll try to find the Sega System E instruction manual, or ideally some schematics to see what's going on there. Another thing that comes mind that is different in the MAS (besides the use of the microcontroller) is that it probably connects GND to pins #e and #27 on the JAMMA connector, wheres the HAS uses those as the duplicated button 6 output for the Pandora's Box PCBs. Try joining those two pins with the GND on the HAS side, unless that Sega System E to JAMMA adapter already does that.

One more measurement - resistance between the button input and +5V on the Sega System E (the PCB mustn't be connected to anything). Perhaps it would require external pull-ups.

One more edit: It's the octocoupler, so most likely there will be no pull-up at all on the PCB game end, the button input will be connected directly to the octocoupler. If that is the case, please put a 1-2K resistor between button input and +5V. Of course the easiest way would be to do that on the JAMMA adapter you have, or the HAS; don't do it on the PCB game.

I couldn't find the Sega System E schematics. What is the value of the current limiting resistor used for the octocouplers? Usually that's around 220-470R.
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Might be a few days but I'll try all of this and check back.
 
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