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djsheep said:
It’s definitely got my co-sign as best Supergun on the market. I can finalky understand what all you guys were yapping about now :) The Axunworks JJ-CBOX will still get used for JVS stuff, but the HAS is now my JAMMA gun of choice.
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The HAS does work great with my Naomi2 board. As long as you got something like a Capcom IO with a JAMMA interface you can use your HAS to play some JVS as well.
 
djsheep said:
Posting up positive A+ no shill feedback for this device after using it as my main Supergun for some time now.

I have it hooked up to a Meanwell RT-85A as @PascalP @kikaso recommend and that seems to work really well with every board/multi I’ve thrown at it. The supplied power cables forks were a little too big for the MW PSU terminals but I just squished them with some pliers. No biggie. Just throwing it out there in case smaller forks can be supplied for Meanwell users on request?

The 3P/4P adapter and cables from @RGB
are superb quality but so far I’ve just used the CPS-2 one with AvP and it works great. Still gotta get to Konami and CPS-1. The snap in of the cable is so satisfying!

It’s definitely got my co-sign as best Supergun on the market. I can finalky understand what all you guys were yapping about now :) The Axunworks JJ-CBOX will still get used for JVS stuff, but the HAS is now my JAMMA gun of choice.

The quality is really fantastic and features/install/instructions are very well thought out. I haven’t even explored the button mapping stuff yet because the Undamned adapters and everything else are mapped perfectly out the box.

The C-Sync regeneration feature recently helped me out with a troublesome board. Another point of difference from competing devices.

P.S. I need to get one of your extension cables when they come back in stock @RGB as the stack with the 3P/4P adapter and plexi covers is pretty heavy and weighs down when using fat stacks like the CPS-1 Multi. I have one or the A-P extensions cables Frank_fjs made me but it seems to loose a lot of voltage by the time it reaches the board.
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Glad the PSU is working well for you! I had to do same with fork connectors. I used some side cutters to thin them out—no big deal, as you said.

With regards to the HAS, I totally agree with all of your points. The best endorsement I can give is that I never think about it. It’s just one of those pieces of kit where you set it up once and it just works all of the time. No drama and no messing with it if you don’t want to.
 
@RGB - Do you will have in the future some " Player 3 and Player 4 harness for the 3P4P adapter" because i order with my HAS the 3P4P adapter but i don't have the harness :S
 
HAS v4.1, P3P4 module, jamma extension….all is absolutly Perfect to play with the last multiCPS1-1.5 from Darksoft 😍
 

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I can't believe I missed this. I just blew up my Retroelectronik I've been using for years by plugging in the 12V backwards accidentally. I filled out the Pre-order form. This time I'm buying TWO because I'm not going to let my stupidity leave me with a second rate supergun and this one looks awesome. Can't wait!
 
May have been covered earlier, apologies if so. What current draw can I expect on +5, +12, -5V with CPS2, MVS, and PGM?

I've got a lovely Power-One linear power supply that provides 5V at 3A with OVP, 12V at 1A, and -5V at 0.4A; was hoping to put it to use!
 
Bigblue709 said:
May have been covered earlier, apologies if so. What current draw can I expect on +5, +12, -5V with CPS2, MVS, and PGM?

I've got a lovely Power-One linear power supply that provides 5V at 3A with OVP, 12V at 1A, and -5V at 0.4A; was hoping to put it to use!
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Current draw depends on the board you’re using. Manufacturers require 7A on 5V for some boards. I would say go with 7A at the minimum and you should be fine.
 
Last edited:
I have a crazy request for the next revision.

Can we get a physical coin box to plug into the HAS?

I love the act of dropping coins to play arcade and dumping the bucket out to see my real life savings and score.

What do you guys think?
 
9999 Damage said:
I’m with @the Goat on this— not for me.

That said, it shouldn’t need a HAS revision, right? You could send credit signals on DB15 pin 3, and make controller input a pass-through.
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Hmm. you got me intrigued.

The DB 15 screw terminals I could find don't have a female connector and are meant to hardwire to leads. How would I go about using a passthrough and extracting pin 3 while still being able to use the controller.

Here's the DB - 15 terminals I could find.

8e-3c6d1b5b2ef6-1-abfeb4e639106ff0c2b1bb883b66c2dc.jpg


And if you didn't prefer to perform the act of dropping coin to play. Could we at least agree a credit tracker would be awesome so we can have some sort of benchmark to our gameplay and value?

Metal Slug X comes to mind just hitting the credit button over and over until you reach the credits. It would nice to know that on your difficulty it costed you. $6.75 at $0.25 per credit to reach those credits.

What do you guys do to keep track? Or do you just nail that credit button like "God Mode"?
 
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hoagtech said:
Hmm. you got me intrigued.

The DB 15 screw terminals I could find don't have a female connector and are meant to hardwire to leads. How would I go about using a passthrough and extracting pin 3 while still being able to use the controller.

Here's the DB - 15 terminals I could find.



And if you didn't prefer to perform the act of dropping coin to play. Could we at least agree a credit tracker would be awesome so we can have some sort of benchmark to our gameplay and value?

Metal Slug X comes to mind just hitting the credit button over and over until you reach the credits. It would nice to know that on your difficulty it costed you. $6.75 at $0.25 per credit to reach those credits.

What do you guys do to keep track? Or do you just nail that credit button like "God Mode"?
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Sounds like a cool product idea. I'll give it a thought to add more complexity/value to it :)
 
hoagtech said:
Metal Slug X comes to mind just hitting the credit button over and over until you reach the credits. It would nice to know that on your difficulty it costed you. $6.75 at $0.25 per credit to reach those credits.

What do you guys do to keep track? Or do you just nail that credit button like "God Mode"?
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Ideas for your project:
  • Solder wires to the solder joints on your supergun
  • Get both an F and M DB15 breakout board and wire them together to make your pass-through
  • Instead of buying breakout boards, splice a DB15 extension cable
  • (my preferred option) Throw 100 JPY in a bowl every time you continue
    tongue.png
    Substitute with a phone app or abacus as you please.
 
The more fun number to care about and keep track of is your score (which typically resets on continue so try not to!)
 
9999 Damage said:
Ideas for your project:
  • Solder wires to the solder joints on your supergun
  • Get both an F and M DB15 breakout board and wire them together to make your pass-through
  • Instead of buying breakout boards, splice a DB15 extension cable
  • (my preferred option) Throw 100 JPY in a bowl every time you continue
    tongue.png
    Substitute with a phone app or abacus as you please.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I did to track my Metal SLUG XX score

I had to dig into the archives to find these photos

A credit tracker would be nice..

IMG-3431.jpg

IMG-3426.jpg

IMG-3424.jpg


I like the idea of soldering to the joints of the PCB the best btw
 
Build a box with a coin slot, coin mech, coin switch, coin counter. wire it to your harness with quick disconnects

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265791276086
https://www.amazon.com/Suzo-Happ-25-Cent-Coin-Mech/dp/B00M107O1U
https://www.amazon.com/Atomic-Market-Switch-Straight-Arcade/dp/B07HM4WP2G
https://www.amazon.com/Atomic-Market-Pinball-Counter-Electronic/dp/B07HM5GWZX

Use the box as a piggy bank or something

EDIT: There's also these all in one solutions, still need to add the counter though https://www.amazon.com/Sintron-Comparable-Acceptor-Selector-Vending/dp/B00C185UQI
 
rtw said:
Just make a JAMMA interposer PCB, i.e a 1:1 JAMMA interface. Then tap out coin, no need to adapt the HAS at all.
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Ummm. Can you dumb it down a bit for me?

please reference an example.

Are you saying use a Jamma extension and lead out the Jamma board instead?

If that's what your suggesting I prefer to keep my Jamma leads unextended as they make too many devices built on jamma extension chains such as -5v addition, CPS2 extension, Jamma capture device ETC.

If we adapt to the controller signal, or a jumper (wink wink @RGB) we wouldn't add to the chain of Jamma extension and possible video connection degradation.
 
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