What's new
By:

Home Arcade System

p_ja said:
This is AULT SC200, and it apparently used to be a very popular supergun power supply, at least if this 2005 forum thread is to be believed, so I guess there could be some value if lots of people have these laying around, but I think this thing has been long discontinued.
Click to expand...
Is there any modren alternative of it?
 
Received the white shell for my HAS yesterday, and was instantly reminded that I haven't tested my HAS V5.0 yet. So I spent a few minutes putting a test setup together and everything looks good so far. Perhaps my old V3.1 unit can go into retirement now. :)

IMG_0511.JPG
 
I’ve noticed that the Mini din 8 to ps1 connector is not available. Does anyone know if there is any other way to adapt the hd Retrovision genesis cable to the mini din 8 for use on the HAS?
 
One of the covers I ordered didn't come with screws. What is the screw size? I might have some on hand, but @RGB if you know the size off the top of your head, it'll save me a few minutes of digging out various boxes and comparing sizes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RGB
9999 Damage said:
One of the covers I ordered didn't come with screws. What is the screw size? I might have some on hand, but @RGB if you know the size off the top of your head, it'll save me a few minutes of digging out various boxes and comparing sizes.
Click to expand...
I apologize, I must have missed those. These are M3 screws. If you can't find the correct ones, then drop me a PM and I'll send the missing screws.
 
Good day @RGB can I send you my HAS V3.2 please? I some how lost buttons A,B,C,D. I still have the start button as well as all the directional buttons. I have had this thing for a while with no issues. I tried multiple different controllers and my newer HAS with no issues. I did have the 3p/4p hat attached. I took it off and still no input on the buttons.

v/r
Kelly
 
zionfarm said:
Good day @RGB can I send you my HAS V3.2 please? I some how lost buttons A,B,C,D. I still have the start button as well as all the directional buttons. I have had this thing for a while with no issues. I tried multiple different controllers and my newer HAS with no issues. I did have the 3p/4p hat attached. I took it off and still no input on the buttons.

v/r
Kelly
Click to expand...
Have you tried going into the button configuration mode and resetting it?
1747529965184.png
 
Yep tried that and I can program the buttons but it still nothing on buttons 1-6. Tried a Neo Geo bean controller and a Sega Saturn controller and still nada.
 
RGB said:
I apologize, I must have missed those. These are M3 screws. If you can't find the correct ones, then drop me a PM and I'll send the missing screws.
Click to expand...
I didn't want to ask you to pay shipping to send a few screws around the world, so I just bought some pan head M3 wood screws and they fit great. (I had other M3 wood screws, but one had a head too large and the other was countersunk.) However... it didn't solve a minor problem I hoped it would solve:

I have two "01"-style enclosures. Both came with a clear plastic rectangle that didn't come with the black or white enclosures. I assume this rectangle is supposed to be sandwiched between the OLED and the green Plexiglass window in the outer case. On the enclosure with your original screws, the plastic rectangle stays put. In this enclosure with my own screws, the clear plastic window slides around inside even though the case is tight.

Am I doing something wrong? Is this plastic rectangle even supposed to be over the OLED, or is it just some junk I'm trying to incorporate into the case? 😁
 
  • Like
Reactions: RGB
zionfarm said:
Yep tried that and I can program the buttons but it still nothing on buttons 1-6. Tried a Neo Geo bean controller and a Sega Saturn controller and still nada.
Click to expand...
Does the LED light up? If so, it's the config issue. Have you tried to go into the rapid fire mode and exit without pressing any button?

@9999 Damage The clear rectangle is just a spare plexiglass window for the screen in case you don't like the fluorescent green that's installed in the case :)
 
RGB said:
Does the LED light up? If so, it's the config issue. Have you tried to go into the rapid fire mode and exit without pressing any button?

@9999 Damage The clear rectangle is just a spare plexiglass window for the screen in case you don't like the fluorescent green that's installed in the case :)
Click to expand...
Thank you for the advice. I had to a full device reset of the button layout. Though when reassigning the buttons on my Neo Geo MV1C with a Sega Saturn in controller in port 1, & a Neo Geo bean stick in port 2. I noticed it won't allow me to assign button D as the fourth button with the bean controller? Button A and C are assigned the same for some weird issue. Am I doing something wrong now?
 
Congrats! I haven't bought one yet.

It must be RGBS for sure, and the connector shouldn't matter. Just make sure to set the CSync to TTL if you use the HD-15. TTL can also be safely used with the R4K's SCART input, since there's a 470R series resistor in the HAS.

@zionfarm Have you tried swapping the P1/P2 controllers? Does the P2 exhibit the same problem? Have you tested another controller to pinpoint the issue?
 
RT4k documentation has some more detail

https://consolemods.org/wiki/AV:RetroTINK-4K#SCART
  • RGBS is a form of RGB where sync is sent through a discrete line. The RetroTINK-4K accepts the following RGBS signal formats via SCART: Composite Sync (attenuated), Sync-on-Luma, and Sync-on-composite. They all work by sending information down the Red, Green, Blue, and "Sync" lines. The maximum resolution supported is 1920x1080p 60fps, or 148.5 MHz
https://consolemods.org/wiki/AV:RetroTINK-4K#HD-15
  • RGBS is a form of RGB where sync is sent through a discrete line. The RetroTINK-4K accepts the following RGBS signal formats via HD-15: Composite Sync (75 Ohm attenuated or TTL), Sync-on-Luma, and Sync-on-composite. They all work by sending information down the Red, Green, Blue, and "Sync" lines. The maximum resolution supported is 1920x1080p 60fps, or 148.5 MHz

tl;dr
SCART = attenuated 75 ohm sync
HD15 = TTL or attenuated 75 oh sync
 
@RGB Thank you for the tip, I think I would prefer the HD15 directly since then It's only one cable with the nice VGA adapter + audio of course.

Tell me is the CSync TTL without the 470R on HAS 5.0 ?
 
rtw said:
@RGB Thank you for the tip, I think I would prefer the HD15 directly since then It's only one cable with the nice VGA adapter + audio of course.

Tell me is the CSync TTL without the 470R on HAS 5.0 ?
Click to expand...
In V5.0, there is a 470R resistor on the CSync line, even when the TTL level is selected. This doesn't seem to affect equipment expecting TTL levels, as there's either no termination or very high termination, such as around 2K. This serves as a safety mechanism - when connected to a device expecting a consumer-level CSync (75R impedance), the 470R in series + 75R termination form a voltage divider and the Vp-p is reduced to an electrically safe level.
 
  • Love
Reactions: rtw
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top