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Home Arcade System

Ok, awesome. Now can anyone give me a 101 on how to wire this thing? I’ll be your best friend, I promise.

syntax_X said:
Geddon said:
I can’t seem to find it, but I thought somewhere in here someone showed a picture of a switch they wired to switch from cps2 fighter kick harness to cps2 4p kick harness easily. What I want to know is, what switch that was? I need something like that for a different application. Thanks for any help
Click to expand...
https://i.imgur.com/1wT36Cb.jpghttps://au.rs-online.com/web/p/slide-switches/7831117/

Be sure to label all wires carefully both ends before fitting the switch.
Click to expand...
 
Geddon said:
Ok, awesome. Now can anyone give me a 101 on how to wire this thing? I’ll be your best friend, I promise.

syntax_X said:
Geddon said:
I can’t seem to find it, but I thought somewhere in here someone showed a picture of a switch they wired to switch from cps2 fighter kick harness to cps2 4p kick harness easily. What I want to know is, what switch that was? I need something like that for a different application. Thanks for any help
Click to expand...
https://i.imgur.com/1wT36Cb.jpghttps://au.rs-online.com/web/p/slide-switches/7831117/
Be sure to label all wires carefully both ends before fitting the switch.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
https://docs-apac.rs-online.com/webdocs/122a/0900766b8122a358.pdf

You will want to focus on the "6PDT" wiring schematic. Basically you need the wires that normally would go to 3P/4P that overlap with 2P 6B to go into "1", the wires from the HAS 2P 6B to "2" and then the output to 1/2 on the CPS2 connector
 
Its pretty straight forward.

Get the blue cable and label the wires 1A to 6A. Cut the CPS2 side plug off.

For the white wires Label the CPS2 end as 1B to 6B and the HAS end 1C to 6C

The switch is wired like this picture.
Im lazy and only labelled one side but you get the idea.

8H32pz4.jpg


When cutting the white cable only cut 1 wire at a time, so the cable lengths are staggered.
This way you end up with a nice tight bunch of wires that have an unaltered length compared to the ones we didn't cut.
Ill let you guys figure out how to get the heatshrink over it :P
ZbbtZWo.png

twP1rci.jpg
 
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strygo said:
I finally had some time to get my HAS setup and in doing so realized I'm missing a power cord to connect to the MWP-606. It looks like I could get one from RetroArcade.us that I would connect to power socket and then a PC power cord. Does anyone have a more elegant solution? I'm based in the US. Thanks for your time.
Click to expand...
I came across a product by ProgressiveRC that is perfect for it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CDA0ITS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I'm debating whether I should make a case for the HAS when I eventually get it, do you think something like this would work?

AfNXth5.jpg
 
Azu said:
Quick question:
I have the HAS with a few UD Decoders and friends that bring their own fightsticks to play ST. I was wondering is it safe to unplug and plug controllers while the HAS is powered on?

For instance: if one person is done playing, can they unplug their fightstick and another person plug in theirs if they want to jump in?
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's standard operation for tournaments (people using their own controllers). Unplugging the entire decoder shouldn't hurt anything either, but not necessary.
-ud
 
daffy said:
I'm debating whether I should make a case for the HAS when I eventually get it, do you think something like this would work?

AfNXth5.jpg
Click to expand...
Should work fine in theory but I prefer a modular approach as I have quite a few arcade computers/hardware/etc. I found that while the block terminal decoders work alright the terminals can be tedious about holding wires in depending on how thick the gauge is of what you use. For myself I use the DB-15 to USB plugs and then a standard USB extension mount like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Leader-Panel-Mount-Type-Female/dp/B00UGLOFR2/

There's a ton of panel mounts like that just have to search around. I use a pass-through B plug for JVS and A plugs for the decoders as an example

With regards to power I keep my power supply separate and use power strips as some of my games require 4-5 things being plugged in at once and having to flip all those switches every time gets obnoxious.

I'd also suggest looking into a JAMMA harness extender. After my last one died a horrible death I purchased one from Mike's arcade shop - https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=JAMMAEXT and it's probably the best extender I've ever received in terms of build quality. If you go with Mike be sure to ask for him to populate 25/26/AC/AD (buttons 4/5 on the edge connector) as he only populates the pins necessary for the JAMMA standard.
 
Could you advise me, what's complet set can buy with the HAS, I will use it with CPS1,CPS2, Shinobi....maybe later MVS and CPS 3. I have PS2 stick HRAP and OSSC.

I assume that:

- CPS2 kick harness
- SCART to 2xRCA and 8pin mini DIN adapter

- PS2 adpter or xbox 360

- PSU

- RGB scart output cable


is it right? missing something?
What's kind of PSU could you advise me and RGB cable in the link?
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=92_165
 
nonosto said:
Could you advise me, what's complet set can buy with the HAS, I will use it with CPS1,CPS2, Shinobi....maybe later MVS and CPS 3. I have PS2 stick HRAP and OSSC.

I assume that:

- CPS2 kick harness
- SCART to 2xRCA and 8pin mini DIN adapter

- PS2 adpter or xbox 360

- PSU

- RGB scart output cable


is it right? missing something?
What's kind of PSU could you advise me and RGB cable in the link?
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=92_165
Click to expand...
Based on what i read and show i just grabbed one like this (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Happ-15-AM...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649) because i'm intend to use it with HAS and with Cps1 (when will be released) , Cps2 , Taito F3 DS multikits.
In the meantime ... here are other products recommanded :

- https://www.meanwelldirect.co.uk/pr...-2/104w-ac-dc-triple-output-for-video-game-5/
- Avoid this -> https://www.meanwelldirect.co.uk/products/104w-ac-dc-triple-output-for-video-game-3/

i will see in future what things i will must grabbed for complete this adventure :saint:
 
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nonosto said:
I Have a special version, a 1.5 with digital audio chip add on via HDMI. uptodate.
Click to expand...
So if you have a OSSC that can encode audio, you should only need the 8pin mini-din to SCART cable for connecting the HAS to the OSSC.
However if that "special" OSSC demands audio be supplied via 3.5mm audio input only (and not over SCART head)...
You'll then need to add a 3.5mm to 3.5mm audio cable to the mix, it will connect directly to the HAS and OSSC in addition to the SCART cable.
 
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