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Home Arcade System

I wanted to post real quick about a problem I was having recently with my HAS. I've been using a Suzo Happ Power Pro power supply for quite awhile with mine with no issues. Recently I've been noticing a diagonal ripple on my display that has recently got worse. I replaced the Suzo Happ with a Mean Well MWP 606 and the ripple disappeared. So I can no longer recommend this power supply.

I was using the Suzo since I had trouble sourcing a Mean Well in the US when I bought my first HAS. Thankfully TwistedQuarter has us covered now. :)

Thinking this might've also been a problem with my SCART cable, I also picked up an extra shielded NESRGB cable from Retro-Access and wanted to report this also works great. :thumbsup:
 
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jassin000 said:
Install shots (and my one cord HD15+3.5mm solution)...
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For the OSSC to lock the the F3 via HD15 adapter, the HAS must be set to output Buffered TTL Sync.
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Open/remove the jumper at location #17 (TTL) and move the jumper at location #18 to center (buffered).
The OSSC must have both its Pre/Post Coast set to 4, and be in mode AV3: RGBS (the first/default mode is AV3: RGBHV).

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Click to expand...
@jassin000

Question for you. I have the OSSC and plan on using these settings to hook up the F3 board I have, but I would also like to leave all the settings alone for CPS1/CPS2/Sega 16 (and maybe other boards). Can I use these buffered settings or do I have to change everything back for the other boards? Will leaving these settings on damage anything (boards or OSSC) to test?
 
xtrasmiley said:
Question for you. I have the OSSC and plan on using these settings to hook up the F3 board I have, but I would also like to leave all the settings alone for CPS1/CPS2/Sega 16 (and maybe other boards). Can I use these buffered settings or do I have to change everything back for the other boards? Will leaving these settings on damage anything (boards or OSSC) to test?
Click to expand...
OSSC settings won't damage anything. In short, your HAS V3.1 setup will look like this:
  • Taito F3 > HAS (CSync set to buffered, TTL) > 8pin mini DIN > 8MD to HD15 > OSSC (HD15 input, OSSC set to "RGBS")
  • CPS1/2/3 and majority of other boards > HAS (CSync set to buffered, 75R) > 8pin mini DIN to Scart cable > OSSC (Scart input)
As for the PSU, you can get a Mean Well MWP-606 in the US and I highly recommend it - http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4
 
Yeah, I saw the recommendations on the PS, but I had a specific question about the ones I linked. I went with the Happ, but it wouldn’t be a bad idea to post US and Europe options in the thread op.
 
RGB said:
xtrasmiley said:
Question for you. I have the OSSC and plan on using these settings to hook up the F3 board I have, but I would also like to leave all the settings alone for CPS1/CPS2/Sega 16 (and maybe other boards). Can I use these buffered settings or do I have to change everything back for the other boards? Will leaving these settings on damage anything (boards or OSSC) to test?
Click to expand...
OSSC settings won't damage anything. In short, your HAS V3.1 setup will look like this:
  • Taito F3 > HAS (CSync set to buffered, TTL) > 8pin mini DIN > 8MD to HD15 > OSSC (HD15 input, OSSC set to "RGBS")
  • CPS1/2/3 and majority of other boards > HAS (CSync set to buffered, 75R) > 8pin mini DIN to Scart cable > OSSC (Scart input)
As for the PSU, you can get a Mean Well MWP-606 in the US and I highly recommend it - http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4
Click to expand...
if this is the case, may I humbly recommend making the 75 Ohm/TTL CSync a switch vice a jumper in your next revision.

I was also hoping to run everything via the 8 pin to HD15 to the OSSC and not have some boards on SCART, but that might be a limitation of the boards, I don’t know.

Regardless, I’m 180% excited to get this and start using it!
 
xtrasmiley said:
if this is the case, may I humbly recommend making the 75 Ohm/TTL CSync a switch vice a jumper in your next revision.
Click to expand...
This is happening, as well as switches for enabling/disabling buttons 4, 5 and 6 via the JAMMA connector - all switches will be easily accessible even with the modules/enclosure installed.

edit: About the TTL/75R impedance switch. With HAS it's safe to connect CSync set to "TTL" to devices that expect 75R impedance signal. Sure, impedance will be mismatched, but voltage will be well within the acceptable tolerance (around 0.6Vp-p).
 
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RGB said:
xtrasmiley said:
if this is the case, may I humbly recommend making the 75 Ohm/TTL CSync a switch vice a jumper in your next revision.
Click to expand...
This is happening, as well as switches for enabling/disabling buttons 4, 5 and 6 via the JAMMA connector - all switches will be easily accessible even with the modules/enclosure installed.
edit: About the TTL/75R impedance switch. With HAS it's safe to connect CSync set to "TTL" to devices that expect 75R impedance signal. Sure, impedance will be mismatched, but voltage will be well withing the acceptable tolerance (around 0.6Vp-p).
Click to expand...
Well shit man, looks like I’m buying a second supergun! Looking forward to any new things you come up with!
 
xtrasmiley said:
I was also hoping to run everything via the 8 pin to HD15 to the OSSC and not have some boards on SCART, but that might be a limitation of the boards, I don’t know.
Click to expand...
The HD15 adapter in my experience should only be used for the Taito F3.
Many boards just won't sync to the OSSC via VGA port (SCART works with everything but F3).
I suggest you view it as a work around for F3, but not the recommended method of connection (for anything else).
 
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