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Out of curiosity where are you located? I’ve had the listing up for months, first labeled pre-order then standard stock for the last few weeks. I have one more small batch to test before listing but there’s a chance you live in one of a few countries I don’t currently ship to and that’s why it shows up as out of stock.
Shows out of stock in the US too atm anyway.
 
Yep I have a handful left to test and list so sign up for notifications if you want one. I hope to have them ready this weekend.
 
@misteraddons
Sorry for the ping but I thought maybe my question had got lost in the shuffle so I'm reposting it.
I registered here just to ask kind of a strange question about the new XL board. Am I correct in assuming the 75Ω analog video port works similarly to or the same as the port on the analog IO board, except that it's missing the sync-on-green switch? And if that's the case, would it still be possible to have it output a YPbPr signal with some kind of external adapter?

I'm feel like I'm the only person who might ever have a use for a JAMMA edge connector and a TV without RGBS sitting right next to it, but it would be great if it worked.
 
Yep I have a handful left to test and list so sign up for notifications if you want one. I hope to have them ready this weekend.
Gotcha. Your previous message read like they were in stock as long as you were in the right country. Got it now though, thanks!
 
@misteraddons
Sorry for the ping but I thought maybe my question had got lost in the shuffle so I'm reposting it.
Oh, sorry, it did get lost in the shuffle. It does lack the sync on green needed to output YPbPr, and the reason is that you send the same video to the JAMMA edge and both VGA ports (the bottom one is 75 ohm attenuated). So the result would be YPbPr on your arcade which likely isn’t what you want. Now, you should be able to use direct video and modify an HDMI2VGA adapter to output YPbPr. You simple add a 330 ohm resistor and a standard diode between the sync and the green pin of the VGA port on the adapter.
 
Oh, sorry, it did get lost in the shuffle. It does lack the sync on green needed to output YPbPr, and the reason is that you send the same video to the JAMMA edge and both VGA ports (the bottom one is 75 ohm attenuated). So the result would be YPbPr on your arcade which likely isn’t what you want. Now, you should be able to use direct video and modify an HDMI2VGA adapter to output YPbPr. You simple add a 330 ohm resistor and a standard diode between the sync and the green pin of the VGA port on the adapter.
Aha, thank you, that's all good to know. You're right that I would still want RGBS on the JAMMA edge so it won't work quite right.

I might get/make that adapter for direct video so I can at least change between HDMI and YPbPr displays with a reboot and cable swap. It's at least a lot cheaper than trying to find a replacement for the CRT that will accept RGB these days.
 
Aha, thank you, that's all good to know. You're right that I would still want RGBS on the JAMMA edge so it won't work quite right.

I might get/make that adapter for direct video so I can at least change between HDMI and YPbPr displays with a reboot and cable swap. It's at least a lot cheaper than trying to find a replacement for the CRT that will accept RGB these days.
Yeah that sounds like a plan. I am hoarding tubes but few are RGB :)
 
Got the mistercade complete kit, it Is awesome but I have a very weird issue on Egret II, here the rgb colors are ovesaturated and bleeding to the right, the Nanao ms9 inside not have any issues with MVS or CPS2 jamma boards, perfect colors and sharpness.
The same mistercade kit working perfect on Astro (Ms9 )and Capcom impress.
Egret II cones with no 5v on D pin at Jamma and the main ac cable not have earth ground pin but the taito psu appear stable and sending exactly 5v on 5v line and 12.35v on 12v line.
Mistercade is set with default jumper 5v from 12v. I have no idea how it is possible that perform different on basically the same monitor set! both Ms 9 tubes are in the same great condition and both chassis serviced they performe same way with MVS , cps2 and Cps3!
Any advice?
 
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Got the mistercade complete kit, it Is awesome but I have a very weird issue on Egret II, here the rgb colors are ovesaturated and bleeding to the right, the Nanao ms9 inside not have any issues with MVS or CPS2 jamma boards, perfect colors and sharpness.
The same mistercade kit working perfect on Astro (Ms9 )and Capcom impress.
Egret II cones with no 5v on D pin at Jamma and the main ac cable not have earth ground pin but the taito psu appear stable and sending exactly 5v on 5v line and 12.35v on 12v line.
Mistercade is set with default jumper 5v from 12v. I have no idea how it is possible that perform different on basically the same monitor set! both Ms 9 tubes are in the same great condition and both chassis serviced they performe same way with MVS , cps2 and Cps3!
Any advice?

Hmm ... me and several other MiSTercade testers & owners have used it without problems in an Egret II, so there isn't anything specifically about that cab that would cause the issues you're having. And since your MiSTercade is working fine in other cabs, it doesn't seem to be a MiSTercade issue. What you describe is what I've seen on a cab when the Drive pots are adjusted too high on the chassis PCB.

Does the display color bleed change at all if you swap the power jumper from 12V to 5V?
 
After the joys of customs (aka 66$), here it is, ready to protect me from the summer's evil sun rays!
C820ED77-2B20-43AA-A90A-5931C4AF2AB7.jpeg
 
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Any advice?
Hmm, I haven't seen that across my testing. I have 2 x MS-8, 2 x MS-9, among other monitors used by testers. Can you measure the impedance between your JAMMA harness R, G, and B pins and Ground? (R to Ground, G to Ground, and B to Ground) without any device connected? It should be like 1.5k - 2.5k ohms. One of my chassis is 75 ohm RGB but it still works with MiSTercade, though I had to adjust a good amount.
 
Hmm, I haven't seen that across my testing. I have 2 x MS-8, 2 x MS-9, among other monitors used by testers. Can you measure the impedance between your JAMMA harness R, G, and B pins and Ground? (R to Ground, G to Ground, and B to Ground) without any device connected? It should be like 1.5k - 2.5k ohms. One of my chassis is 75 ohm RGB but it still works with MiSTercade, though I had to adjust a good amount.
First of all thank you for your support, to get a good picture I had to put down the gains and turn up a bit the G2, now I got a pretty awesome picture with mistercade but a not brilliant picture with snk MVS board. On the Jamma connector I have 0.450Kohm from green, red and blue to video ground.
I must say that I simply put my prepped sd wich use on stand alone mister + PVM , it is 15Khz only jut reconfig the controls and done. Also I have replaced the Taito psu for a 15A sanwa one but this not improved anything.
The chassis inside the Egret 2 is an MS929T wich is absolutely the same as MS9A (astro city) eccept for a weird metal shield under RGB preamp and two film cap on primary psu was not installed (c991 and c992 , I had to install those s because if test the chassis out of the Egret I got interfrence on screen)
 

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First of all thank you for your support, to get a good picture I had to put down the gains and turn up a bit the G2, now I got a pretty awesome picture with mistercade but a not brilliant picture with snk MVS board. On the Jamma connector I have 0.450Kohm from green, red and blue to video ground.
I must say that I simply put my prepped sd wich use on stand alone mister + PVM , it is 15Khz only jut reconfig the controls and done. Also I have replaced the Taito psu for a 15A sanwa one but this not improved anything.
The chassis inside the Egret 2 is an MS929T wich is absolutely the same as MS9A (astro city) eccept for a weird metal shield under RGB preamp and two film cap on primary psu was not installed (c991 and c992 , I had to install those s because if test the chassis out of the Egret I got interfrence on screen)
Ok, great, but the issue that remains is that your MVS board and MiSTercade have different video output levels, which isn't ideal. I measured an MV1C when developing MiSTercade and its video output levels are very close to mine (3.3V vs 3.0V). The circuit I'm using for RGB video amplification is 1:1 with a very popular arcade platform and I haven't had many other users with brightness issues. Do you have other original arcade games you can compare against? Arcade video can be up to 5V. Cheers!
 
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