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Mrhide's Egret 29 Restore Thread

I've never actually seen a complete TCR system though I have come across one or two people who have part of one still in their E29

I've been insanely busy so I haven't had much time to check in on this amazing restore, but I wanted to chime in to say I have a full working setup in mine as well if anyone needs pictures.

Unfortunately I've never seen the cards, despite casually looking on YAJ since 2014. I showed off the entire setup at FreePlay Florida in November and everyone pretty much agreed it had something to do with G-Net functionality, but we're not sure what just yet.
 
My neon replacement… which are not working
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Yeah rip all that cheap stuff out.

Sunlight makes a excellent high quality LED fixture that mimics the same shape and color temp as the florescent assembly in our machines. I am not a fan of the heat and plastic damaging qualities the OG florescent tubes give off so I took mine out and put it into storage, capped off the original wiring without damaging it. All the orginal cabling runs up the right chrome arm along with the speaker cabling. Between those cables that tube is full so I ran new electrical wiring down the left side tube that runs the LED fixture independently of the main PSU of the cab. This way I can run the marquee lights even when the machine is off and 24/7 basically without worry and only 9 watts. The shape of the this LED fixture brings the light source down in a way that shines that light correctly onto the green marquee in order for it to light up properly as well.

While i was in there I replaced the speakers as well with correct drop ins, for the price of the speakers if it was worth to get it all new, I didn't want to have to worry with reopening that part up later.
 
Yeah rip all that cheap stuff out.

Sunlight makes a excellent high quality LED fixture that mimics the same shape and color temp as the florescent assembly in our machines. I am not a fan of the heat and plastic damaging qualities the OG florescent tubes give off so I took mine out and put it into storage, capped off the original wiring without damaging it. All the orginal cabling runs up the right chrome arm along with the speaker cabling. Between those cables that tube is full so I ran new electrical wiring down the left side tube that runs the LED fixture independently of the main PSU of the cab. This way I can run the marquee lights even when the machine is off and 24/7 basically without worry and only 9 watts. The shape of the this LED fixture brings the light source down in a way that shines that light correctly onto the green marquee in order for it to light up properly as well.

While i was in there I replaced the speakers as well with correct drop ins, for the price of the speakers if it was worth to get it all new, I didn't want to have to worry with reopening that part up later.

I did.... and it works outside so it is the wire that goes in the left side tube that's broken.
it's a warm light all right:
IMG_5791.jpg

Sunlight LED fixture
got a link?!

Speakers : oval 5x3, shielded. Good ones are not so easy to find.... thanks for creating a need!

...and I am thinking of repurposing this pinball power box which has the line filter, fuse and service plug all done.
The box is unfortunately meant to be mounted on the side of the pin with the power switch underneath so I might have to be creative.
IMG_5788.jpg


IMG_5789.jpg
 
the original AC power panel would be very simple to recreate from scratch, it's basically just a block of MDF with some common off-the-shelf parts.
 
got a link?!

Speakers : oval 5x3, shielded. Good ones are not so easy to find.... thanks for creating a need!

Yep, here is the link for the 12 inch version

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08ZBL8KVD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
If you go this route, the light power cord will fit through the chrome tube if its all thats running through it, its a tight fit still, I ended up tying a string to one end and pulling it through.

They have a 22 inch version that works perfectly in most other candy cabs, I have replaced all my cabs with these for the same effect with independent marquee lighting.

The speakers seem to come and go, the link i had for them is gone now :( but search up: 3 X 5" FULL RANGE REPLACEMENT SPEAKER BUTTON MAGNET 5 WATTS 8 OHMS. The size of the magnets becomes an fitting issue more so in the speakers that are in the pods down below once you get to them, I recommend getting 4 at a time so if you replace them, they all match.
 
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Yep, here is the link for the 12 inch version

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08ZBL8KVD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
They have a 22 inch version that works perfectly in most other candy cabs, I have replaced all my cabs with these for the same effect with independent marquee lighting.

The speakers seem to come and go, the link i had for them is gone now :( but search up: 3 X 5" FULL RANGE REPLACEMENT SPEAKER BUTTON MAGNET 5 WATTS 8 OHMS. The size of the magnets becomes an fitting issue more so in the speakers that are in the pods down below once you get to them.

thanks and 24$ us or 71$ canadian... *sigh*. Guess I'll find the usual one I use on my cabs.... (4000k del)

Speakers: yeah I saw those 5$ speakers but it looks like the same crap ... I want something a little better, if at all possible.

@twistedsymphony you said "lve also found some proper sized and specced speakers to replace the original ones" in another forum for yours... do you remember which ones?
 
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little update:

A replacement was needed for one of the speakers which was broken and "repaired and glued"... and sounded like total crap.
The 3x5 paper cone shielded speakers are on sale for 3-5 $ on ebay ... plus 30$ shipping ... or from parts express, it's 80$ shipping. And they are crappy 5W speakers and I wanted something "a little better".
Searched online and "3x5 + shielded" is really hard (aka impossible) to find ! All I could find was these paper cones.
Went to 2 local store, nope. nada. nothing that would fit.
Asked a arcade friend who ... has a tendency to pick up every free tv he finds so maybe he had such a speaker?.. nope.

Desperate, I started to look everywhere until finally, behind me all this time are these old little computer speakers...

just maybe they are shielded and could fit?

well yes with a printed adapter :
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IMG_5846.jpg


(yes I will change both...and have a spare)
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Barely fits
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and hey, it's a big whole 15W
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Now with @twistedsymphony colored schematics I am wondering if I should have a "high and low" volume instead of a left and right?

I'll go back to procrastinate on what to do next now.
 
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Crimp crimp crimp crimp …
Turn on. Blue switch bye bye! Hello new old switch!
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And more crimp crimp crimp left
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Thanks @twistedsymphony for that colored schema! 😵‍💫
Nice crimping man!

Do you you mind sharing a photo of the inside grooves of your crimping tool?

A weird request but it will instill confidence when I have to crimp my CP on the Goldfish catcher.
 
Nice crimping man!

Do you you mind sharing a photo of the inside grooves of your crimping tool?

A weird request but it will instill confidence when I have to crimp my CP on the Goldfish catcher.

the tool is this one : https://www.sargenttools.com/ToolsByTrade/Open_Barrel_Contact_Five_Cavity_Crimp_Tool/

I use E to do the "non insulated part" and C for the insulated part.

IMG_5976.jpg

IMG_5977.jpg

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Works for me for pretty much all the connectors I use, which are mostly AMP UP, Molex and JST.

Works so well that I actually had to make a training for work as part of a "trainer's training" and I choose... connectors ! Brought a Sega sound board which has 5 different types of connectors on it ;) ... people enjoyed it even if it was "a tad technical" !
 
note to idiot self: make sure the buttons you're using are normally open and not normally closed X/

anyway ... remixed and reprinted and moved everything with new buttons...with reinforcements at the bottom (don't ask).
Of course not moving the top hole enough to make that remote board straight. OH WELL.

IMG_5992.jpg
 
note to idiot self: make sure the buttons you're using are normally open and not normally closed X/

anyway ... remixed and reprinted and moved everything with new buttons...with reinforcements at the bottom (don't ask).
Of course not moving the top hole enough to make that remote board straight. OH WELL.

IMG_5992.jpg
Ah Nice, I like how you moved the remote board down to there. The stock position was a bad choice, not sure what they were thinking with that.
 
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