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hatmoose

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This is the Digikey BOM for the Namco Exceleena power supply electrolytic caps that I ordered

It would probably be sensible to use better caps for not much more money, or basically equivilent caps for a lot less money. But this is a restoration so I selected as close as possible to the factory parts

Nichicon PR series has been replaced with PS series - all 105 degree and all 2000/3000 hour
Nichicon GQ series has been replaced with GU/GN series - all 105 degree and all 3000 hour
Please note that one of the caps isnt labeled, it's hot glued onto the side of the board - all of the exceleena power supplies that I have seen or seen pictures of have this extra cap. It's on the list as C??

1620123217799.png


I couldnt make out the markings on the resistors clearly enough to order them with any confidence. So I'll test them to confirm correct values while I'm replacing the caps and order those seperately
 

hatmoose

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Murray

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Not from that PSU, that area went pop on this PSU.

I can try and get one from my cabs in a few days.

bad-jpg.jpg
 

hatmoose

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Yes, that same area is smashed to hell on my power supply too - the existing resistors fell apart when I removed them to test them. They have been gently rotting in a bath of leaking capicator juice for years...

When I did take the power supply apart so I could remove them for testing i discovered that @Murray was right - huge mess under there, especially that area at the bottom of the board where the cap juice drains to.
IMG_5505.jpgIMG_5516.jpg

After I touched R18 and R19 so I could read the markings they disintergrated, but the tester gave this reading
IMG_5517 (1).jpgIMG_5518.jpg

R6, R7 and R8 all tested nicely
IMG_5509.jpgIMG_5510.jpg

Anyway, where I got to with the big resistors was this - I'll replace them all just in case, but it looks like R19 and R19 are the worst, followed by R6 R7 and R8

I considered if I should get 1W or 2W resistors
the existing ones measure 11 x 3.5
The new ones measure as follows, 2W wont really fit, so 1W it is...
1W = 10mm x 3.5mm
2W = 12mm x 5mm

R6 R7 R8 - observed and measured match up
Measured on the tester = 330
Observed = Orange Orange Brown Gold = 330 @5%
MFG part #ROX1SJ330R (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
MFG part #ROX2SJ330R (5mm x 12mm) 2W


R18 R19 - observed and measured do NOT match up because they were too dameaged to
Measured on the tester
68 Ohm
Observed possibilities - they are smashed to hell and it’s hard to see, and when I tried to wipe off the grime they disintergrated
Green Yellow Black Gold = 54 at 5%, basically does not exist?
Grey Yellow Black Gold = 84 at 5%, basically does not exist?
Blue Yellow Black Gold = 64 at 5%, basically does not exist?
Blue Grey Black Gold = 68 at 5%, this is what we are going with
MFG part #ROX1SJ68R (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
MFG part #ROX2SJ68R (5mm x 12mm) 2W


R34 R35 - no need to measure these, really clear
Yellow Purple Black Gold = 47 at 5%
MFG part #ROX1SJ47R (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
MFG part #ROX2SJ47R (5mm x 12mm) 2W


R3 R4 R5 - no need to measure these, really clear
Green Blue Orange Gold = 56k at 5%
MFG part #ROX1SJ56K (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
MFG part #ROX2SJ56K (5mm x 12mm) 2W

I also looked up replacement fuses. I've lost a $30IC in a monitor chassis in order to save a .25cent fuse before :)
1620789324499.png


So that gives us a resistor BOM as follows
3 x MFG part #ROX1SJ330R (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
2 x MFG part #ROX1SJ68R (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
2 x MFG part #ROX1SJ47R (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
3 x MFG part #ROX1SJ56K (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W

A fuse BOM as follows
2 x 0312004.MXP
2 x 0235004.MXP

and the resistors per above.

Ready to order from digikey as soon as I can batch up enough projects to qualify for free shipping :)
 

hatmoose

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Digikey delivered today and I've started the rebuild of the power supply. First the bad news - The new 1W resistors look tiny compared to the originals, the originals must be 2W. Im not sending good men to their deaths, I'll order 2W ones next time around
IMG_5586.jpg

But the good news is that the values are all correct. Most of them were too burned up to read the markings. I removed all the large resistors and tested them all on the "transistor tester"
R6 R7 R8 = 331.2 331.6 330 so we are spot on at 330
R18 R19 = 68.1 68.2 = so we are spot on at 68
R34 R35 = 47.2 47.1 = so we are spot on at 47
R3 R4 R5 55.68k 55.76k 55.66k = so we are spot on at 56k
IMG_5588.jpgIMG_5597.jpgIMG_5593.jpgIMG_5585.jpg

All the caps changed out without fuss - the stench of buring fish was revolting - at least two of them were miles out of spec and both of these were in the +5v circuit. There were also a lot of cracked joints on the bottom of the board, I had to commit several crimes against good soldering practise to repair those
IMG_5601.jpg

Tomorrow I test, and when i do another DigiKey order I'll get 2W resistors and see how those go - but overall feeling very happy with progress today
 

hatmoose

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Had a bit of weirdness when I was testing this. When I tried to test it IN the cab it would not work at all -dead. Then I pulled it out of the cab and onto the bench and it worked perfectly - then I put it BACK into the cab with no changes at all and it works perfectly.

Anyhoo, output voltages were a bit all over the show after the rebuild and recap
12v was at 11.28
5 v was at 5.3
-5 was spot on at -5

IMG_5625.jpgIMG_5624.jpgIMG_5623.jpg

So clearly the sensible thing to do is play with these unmarked potentiometers. These work in tandem to adjust +12v and +5v. If you manipulate them in the right way - like me - you can get them to explode C26 like I did :)
IMG_5626.jpgIMG_5628.jpg
So I replaced the factory spec Nichicon (470/16v) with one from Rubycon that costs 4 times as much and is also a higher voltage (470/25v), and was able to dial in 5v pretty much perfectly
IMG_5630.jpg

My key takeaway from this would be to update the BOM as follows
1621472987432.png


So overall I'm going to call the power supply "Done". I'll probably replace those resistors at some point in the future.
From here I'll move onto the wiring harness which has been horribly mangled at some time in the past
 

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kazuo

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Thanks for the BOM and the repair log! Super helpful for future reference.

Also digging the tester! Where did you pick that up?
 

Murray

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@hatmoose Thanks also for posting all that info and the manual link.

We've created a nice repository for Exceleena info here for any owners and future owners. The more the merrier.

My blue Exceleena is still my fave out of all my cabs.

I'm going to edit the first post with some shortcut links to important info to make it easy to find stuff.
 

hatmoose

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Also digging the tester! Where did you pick that up?
For what it cost it's actually a cool little thing
Massive long thread here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/$20-lcr-esr-transistor-checker-project/6300/
And whining nasal aussie* talks about it here
View: https://youtu.be/7Br3L1B80ow

As the video says, there are about a million differnt variations all with differnt software and features. The specific one that I bought was this one which was $7 - ive had a lot more than $7 worth of entertainment from it. Would buy again.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33004956110.html

*if this was coming from anyone other than a kiwi it would be a deadly insult. But the Aussie-Kiwi thing is long and complex. Someone will accuse me of sheep shagging shortly and balance will be restored
 

djsheep

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That guys voice is atrocious and annoying. The type of boomer I hate getting into a convo with. PSA, I’m an Aussie.
 
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