Namco Exceleena 1 + 2 cabinets.

[hatmoose]

Thanyou - yes that helps a lot

Previously I had thought Orange Orange Purple Gold (330M Ohm)
But it's clearly Orange Orange Brown Gold (330 Ohm)
Would you agree?

https://www.digikey.com/en/resource...ors/conversion-calculator-resistor-color-code

Do you have a similar picture of R18 and R19
I think they are as follows
R18 blue yellow black silver (64 Ohm)
R19 green yellow black silver (54 Ohm)

 

[hatmoose]

Yes, that same area is smashed to hell on my power supply too - the existing resistors fell apart when I removed them to test them. They have been gently rotting in a bath of leaking capicator juice for years...

When I did take the power supply apart so I could remove them for testing i discovered that @Murray was right - huge mess under there, especially that area at the bottom of the board where the cap juice drains to.


After I touched R18 and R19 so I could read the markings they disintergrated, but the tester gave this reading


R6, R7 and R8 all tested nicely


Anyway, where I got to with the big resistors was this - I'll replace them all just in case, but it looks like R19 and R19 are the worst, followed by R6 R7 and R8

I considered if I should get 1W or 2W resistors
the existing ones measure 11 x 3.5
The new ones measure as follows, 2W wont really fit, so 1W it is...
1W = 10mm x 3.5mm
2W = 12mm x 5mm

R6 R7 R8 - observed and measured match up
Measured on the tester = 330
Observed = Orange Orange Brown Gold = 330 @5%
MFG part #ROX1SJ330R (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
MFG part #ROX2SJ330R (5mm x 12mm) 2W

R18 R19 - observed and measured do NOT match up because they were too dameaged to
Measured on the tester
68 Ohm
Observed possibilities - they are smashed to hell and it’s hard to see, and when I tried to wipe off the grime they disintergrated
Green Yellow Black Gold = 54 at 5%, basically does not exist?
Grey Yellow Black Gold = 84 at 5%, basically does not exist?
Blue Yellow Black Gold = 64 at 5%, basically does not exist?
Blue Grey Black Gold = 68 at 5%, this is what we are going with
MFG part #ROX1SJ68R (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
MFG part #ROX2SJ68R (5mm x 12mm) 2W

R34 R35 - no need to measure these, really clear
Yellow Purple Black Gold = 47 at 5%
MFG part #ROX1SJ47R (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
MFG part #ROX2SJ47R (5mm x 12mm) 2W

R3 R4 R5 - no need to measure these, really clear
Green Blue Orange Gold = 56k at 5%
MFG part #ROX1SJ56K (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
MFG part #ROX2SJ56K (5mm x 12mm) 2W

I also looked up replacement fuses. I've lost a $30IC in a monitor chassis in order to save a .25cent fuse before

So that gives us a resistor BOM as follows
3 x MFG part #ROX1SJ330R (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
2 x MFG part #ROX1SJ68R (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
2 x MFG part #ROX1SJ47R (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W
3 x MFG part #ROX1SJ56K (3.5mm x 10mm) 1W

A fuse BOM as follows
2 x 0312004.MXP
2 x 0235004.MXP

and the resistors per above.

Ready to order from digikey as soon as I can batch up enough projects to qualify for free shipping

 

[hatmoose]

Digikey delivered today and I've started the rebuild of the power supply. First the bad news - The new 1W resistors look tiny compared to the originals, the originals must be 2W. Im not sending good men to their deaths, I'll order 2W ones next time around


But the good news is that the values are all correct. Most of them were too burned up to read the markings. I removed all the large resistors and tested them all on the "transistor tester"
R6 R7 R8 = 331.2 331.6 330 so we are spot on at 330
R18 R19 = 68.1 68.2 = so we are spot on at 68
R34 R35 = 47.2 47.1 = so we are spot on at 47
R3 R4 R5 55.68k 55.76k 55.66k = so we are spot on at 56k


All the caps changed out without fuss - the stench of buring fish was revolting - at least two of them were miles out of spec and both of these were in the +5v circuit. There were also a lot of cracked joints on the bottom of the board, I had to commit several crimes against good soldering practise to repair those


Tomorrow I test, and when i do another DigiKey order I'll get 2W resistors and see how those go - but overall feeling very happy with progress today

 

[hatmoose]

Had a bit of weirdness when I was testing this. When I tried to test it IN the cab it would not work at all -dead. Then I pulled it out of the cab and onto the bench and it worked perfectly - then I put it BACK into the cab with no changes at all and it works perfectly.

Anyhoo, output voltages were a bit all over the show after the rebuild and recap
12v was at 11.28
5 v was at 5.3
-5 was spot on at -5



So clearly the sensible thing to do is play with these unmarked potentiometers. These work in tandem to adjust +12v and +5v. If you manipulate them in the right way - like me - you can get them to explode C26 like I did

So I replaced the factory spec Nichicon (470/16v) with one from Rubycon that costs 4 times as much and is also a higher voltage (470/25v), and was able to dial in 5v pretty much perfectly


My key takeaway from this would be to update the BOM as follows

So overall I'm going to call the power supply "Done". I'll probably replace those resistors at some point in the future.
From here I'll move onto the wiring harness which has been horribly mangled at some time in the past

 

[hatmoose]

I just found this scan of the Exceleena (blue) manual on slideshare - it's pretty rough, but better than nothing
https://www.slideshare.net/endoe/exceleena-manual

The blue whale weighs 117KG according to this...

 

[kazuo]

Thanks for the BOM and the repair log! Super helpful for future reference.

Also digging the tester! Where did you pick that up?

 

[Cookie]

@hatmoose Thanks also for posting all that info and the manual link.

We've created a nice repository for Exceleena info here for any owners and future owners. The more the merrier.

My blue Exceleena is still my fave out of all my cabs.

I'm going to edit the first post with some shortcut links to important info to make it easy to find stuff.

 

[hatmoose]

Also digging the tester! Where did you pick that up?

For what it cost it's actually a cool little thing
Massive long thread here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/$20-lcr-esr-transistor-checker-project/6300/
And whining nasal aussie* talks about it here

View: https://youtu.be/7Br3L1B80ow

As the video says, there are about a million differnt variations all with differnt software and features. The specific one that I bought was this one which was $7 - ive had a lot more than $7 worth of entertainment from it. Would buy again.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33004956110.html

*if this was coming from anyone other than a kiwi it would be a deadly insult. But the Aussie-Kiwi thing is long and complex. Someone will accuse me of sheep shagging shortly and balance will be restored

 

[djsheep]

That guys voice is atrocious and annoying. The type of boomer I hate getting into a convo with. PSA, I’m an Aussie.

 

[hatmoose]

Finally got around to reoplacing the old burnt-up resistors with new ones today. The old ones were burned and horrid, the board around them was all blackened and the markings had burned off the outside of some of them. I had previously fixed all of the dry joints where the heat had desoldered them from the board so i expected this to make no difference except cosmetic


The resistors based on testing and observation were as follows
3 x 330 Ohm 2watt (metal oxide)
2 x 68 Ohm 2watt (metal oxide)
2 x 47 Ohm 2 watt (metal oxide)
3 x 56k Ohm 2 watt (metal oxide)

However doing this work actually did make a HUGE difference. Previously it took the CRT about 5 minutes to "warm up", it started out super fuzzy, then faded into focus over the course of a few minutes.
Now the CRT is crystal clear and snaps into perfect focus as soon as it is switched on

This is odd for a couple of reasons
1) resistors should not fail like this, they dont get more or less resistive, they pretty much work until they catch fire.I've never heard of a resistor wearing out
2) I had already fixed all the heat damage and dry joints, so this wasnt a thermal expansion thing

So I'm actually stumped, the only thing I can think of is that I THOUGHT I had fixed all of the dry joints, but I must have missed one, or made a dry join myself.

Does anyone have any thoughts as to why replacing tested-good resistors with new ones would give this kind of improvement?

 

[300wins]

So a friend of mine sent off my broken marquee to get repo, as well as the sticker. The marquee is real close, but the sticker is a bit off. But it's better than the no sticker I had before.
For the marquee, the bottom is the original, legit marquee. The top is the reproduction marquee. The sticker in the picture is the reproduction. I don't have an original I can really take side by side.

 

[Cookie]

So a friend of mine sent off my broken marquee to get repo, as well as the sticker. The marquee is real close, but the sticker is a bit off. But it's better than the no sticker I had before.
For the marquee, the bottom is the original, legit marquee. The top is the reproduction marquee. The sticker in the picture is the reproduction. I don't have an original I can really take side by side.

The header looks good, the artwork on the coin sticker also looks good just the colours are out.

Here's the best picture I have of an original.

 

[hatmoose]

Huge thanks to @nidulans for this amazing care package of Namco Excellena parts


Normally if I'm working on something that has been genuinley adapted as part of it's industrial heritage I try to retain as much of the character as possible. But this is such a messy kludge that I feel nothing but pleasure in returning it to factory condition.

My cab had been "modified for local conditions" by welding armor plate across the front - now I can take all of that off, there is probably twenty bucks in scrap metal here


And all of the coin handling had been stripped out - now I can replace all of that too


I'm not too sure how I'll deal with all the bolt holes from the tank armor. The rest of the paint on the cab is in outstanding condition, not sure it it's possible to just fill/sand/respray the front? Stripping the whole cab to repaint it is a big job...

I'll test fit the new parts and post some more pics before doing anything crazy.

Again, massive thanks to Nidulans - I really appreciate it!

 

[nidulans]

Happy to help @hatmoose!! I'm glad my Exceleena rescue/breeding program could be put to good use. I still think these poor things are some of the most abused cabs.

Agree with @Murray that the blue Exceleena is my favourite cab (except when I need to move them through a doorway). Happy to see as many of these as possible brought back to their former glory!

In case anyone is interested Dy-Mark Silver Zinc spray paint was a perfect match for the metal on mine after an acetone clean to remove the grime.
(https://www.dymark.com.au/categories/protectivedecorative/surfaceprotection/silverzinc)

Still not been able to match the blue. Though I do think I have a solution for that when I have the energy to paint more.

 

[hatmoose]

Whoever up-armoured this thing sure did love drilling holes. Eighteen bolts to undo from behind, eighteen holes to fill/sand/paint…

Before, during, after


All that bolted on steel was protecting the sticker hi-lighted in yellow that I’ve never seen before, will get some better pics tomorrow.

Given how much the mad scientist loved drilling I was surprised that they had used the factory holes in the fibreglass for the coin entry. The new one went straight on with no fuss. I have a 100 yen coin burning a hole in my pocket just begging to be dropped into that coin slot.


And here she is looking much better with all those sweet, sweet factory parts.


And here is all the sheet metal that came off, I have plenty of stock to get that color match right…


@Murray to answer your question, no this has got a Toei chassis in it. They have a reputation for being a massive pain and very beautiful. I have a buddy 10 hours drive away with a ms8+tube that he is holding for me. Once I’ve serviced the existing one I’ll make the call on driving 2 days for a new CRT or not…

So from here I’ll see if I can get a good color match on the paint (thanks for the tip @nidulans !) and decide what to do about those holes once I know what I have to work with.

 

[Cookie]

Nice to see the original serial plate on there as well.

Awesome pics, that is a number of holes though.. I see intact original wiring and PSU! It's a really nice looking cab with just a few small fixable items!

 

[Battlesmurf]

Have you considered buying hole plugs (grey or black) and just plugging those bolt holes?

 

[nam9]

Good tip from @Battlesmurf
I’ve used a bunch of these before.

Search ‘end caps’ on eBay.

 

[hatmoose]

Thank you for the end cap tip! I'm bound to make a hash of it filling and painting them myself, color matching will be super hard because I dont want to paint the entire panel and risk damage to the stickers or serial # plate. So current plan is to buy the plugs, paint them silver, and bung up the holes without further damage.

Speaking of damage... at great personal risk to my credit rating I handed over my card details to Slideshare for their 30 day free trial so I could download the PDF of the Exceleena I manual - attached.

All sorts of cool stuff in the manual; full parts list, wiring diagram for the harness, other interesting stuff like the sizes of bolts. All in Japanese at the moment, I'm working on a translation now.

Also having read the manual I've discovered that there is a bracket that holds the coin bucket in place (green box). It's 100% internal so I'll probably measure and model that and 3D print it

 

[300wins]

So one of my Exceelena Blue light bulb died, so I found a replacement LED version on Amazon.com here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WWYNHFT?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1

This is an original CFL bulb

This bottom picture is the 5000K LED replacement bulb

Looks pretty good. So if you need to replace your light bulb, I would recommend it. It's a straight drop into the light fixture. Your ballast and blub starter need to be working too.