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twistedsymphony

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if you have any good photos of the back of a vewlix with the back door off I could speculate where and how to mount it. I can tell you though that I could easily find space in my e29 to mount one of these without modifying the cab or the wiring and there's no way a Vewlix has less space than an E29
 

KalessinDB

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I'm honestly in the same situation as OP. I have 2 Astro Cities, with 2 different PSUs in them when I got them (I think one of them is original PSU but I'm not sure). Slight, but not bad, hack job on both harnesses. The jamma connector is broken on either edge so I have to caaaarefully line them up to make sure all the pins are lined up just right. And I've seen some nice Astro mods with built-in stereo amps (with a switch to use standard jamma mono if necessary) and the like.

I bought one of the highwaynet adapters linked earlier in this thread, and it's okay but doesn't seem to have audio hooked up (though I haven't looked that close yet)... I keep leaning towards doing one of the mods with a modern Happ or other switching PSU and the stereo amp and whatnot... but every time I talk about it people wanna slap me silly for even considering it :)
 

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Re-cap your PSU. arcadepartsandrepair sells the best cap kits. You should be stable once you do unless your voltage regulators are going bad as a result of the caps going bad. But your VR's can be replaced too. Replacing your PSU with a switching PSU means you'll either have to splice into your wiring (hack job), or acquire the necessary connectors to plug right into them. Then you'll need to wire in a test and service button and you'll lose the degauss button. Easier to stick with the existing PSU and refurb or replace with a used drop in replacement from yaton. But a used yaton replacement might need recapping anyway.

Replace your speakers while you are thinking of taking apart and painting the yellowing panel. Those stock ones aren't shielded and you probably need to degauss the top of your monitor, I am guessing? Post pics of a light colored screen of your cab in action so we can confirm if you should replace your speakers.

While you're at it, take a part your cab and dry clean it with a vacuum and towels to wipe. If not satisfied with the results, remove the monitor and electronics. Leave the wiring. Get some Simple Green spray it everywhere even the wiring and start agitating the grime with a brush. Then hose it down, being careful not to get the sticker artwork on the sides wet. Use an air compressor to to remove standing water. Let it dry under shade outdoors during this hot season for a few hours.

I am not sure that US 120v AC is the cause of all the dead candy cabs I have seen. But one thing is certain, all the dead candy cabs I have seen (usually monitors), the owners don't use a step down. Make of that what you will.

This eBay seller based in Canada from time to time lists OEM Sega harnesses for sale at a good price (Canadian exchange rates). Picked mine up from them for $20 USD
 

kidpanda

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I've got 10 candy cabs and have had them for well over 6 years now, never used a stepdown transformer and have recapped all teh chassis/PSU/ etc., haven't had a blown cab yet. My cabs are on a Watt Box as well plus plugged into a dedicated circuit on the wall. OP, recap your PSU first and foremost and you should be fine.

Unless your wiring is jacked up or spliced on the harness it should be fine. Mine are all running OG harnesses and even my china NAC I have after cleaning it has given me zero issues.
 
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jassin000

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I've got 10 candy cabs and have had them for well over 6 years now, never used a stepdown transformer
It's the PSU inside the cab the drives the requirement.
Wouldn't matter if you had 100 candy cabs that never had an issue, if none of them used a Wei Ya for example.

As mentioned above, cheap Wei Ya PSUs can't operate with 120v in, they are wildly unstable if you do.
It won't damage cab electronics, as the Vewlix's other power supplies are internal and unaffected far as I can tell...

But arcade PCBs, they will cook on the 12v line when it spikes up to 15v and drops back down to 8v.
Yea I'm speaking from experience here, I destroyed a MVS 1FZ's audio amp this way.
 

twistedsymphony

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Most of the SUN PSUs and Nanao Monitors that Sega put in a lot of their Candy cabs were also put in their USA spec cabs without a step-down transformer. so it makes sense that they run without issue on 120V.

But it sounds like I'll be fitting a step-down transformer in my Vewlix. ;)
 

Geddon

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Do you have a recommendation for replacement speakers?

Replace your speakers while you are thinking of taking apart and painting the yellowing panel. Those stock ones aren't shielded and you probably need to degauss the top of your monitor, I am guessing? Post pics of a light colored screen of your cab in action so we can confirm if you should replace your speakers.
 

Sp33dFr34k

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Funny, I ordered an Airlink stepdown today as my current one is outputting 118v instead of 100v. I have been "using" it for 6 years without issues now though, but the aforementioned Wei-Ya PSU somebody sent me to fix wouldn't play nice with it and started jumping up and down on the 12v line so I quickly switched it off.

That said, I don't have any issues with my NVS4000 and Nanao MS9 combo, but do experience a slight audio hum sometimes which may or may not be related to the "overvoltage" the stepdown is feeding it. Ah well, can't hurt to have both at hand :)
 

PascalP

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+1 on Airlink stepdows, quality built products!
I have a EU to JAP version with dual outlets rated @1000W. Outputs a rock-solid 100V :)

Used a cheaper one before, which was rated @110V, but did output over 120V...
 

rewrite

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has anyone decased these?
I'm going to have to to recap one of mine. It buzzes like crazy despite working fine. I'll take pics if someone doesn't get to it first. Though I may just suck it up and buy a bigger 3 or 4 port one. Either way, remind me if I don't inside the next week or so and I'll at least pop it open for a couple pics.

Most of the SUN PSUs and Nanao Monitors that Sega put in a lot of their Candy cabs were also put in their USA spec cabs without a step-down transformer. so it makes sense that they run without issue on 120V.
Aero City cabs seem to be an exception to this rule. I've had 4, all needed a step-down. As well as Aero Tables I'd assume since they're of the same time period and have the same monitor? But Astro's and on seem to work quite nicely right out of the wall.
 

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But it sounds like I'll be fitting a step-down transformer in my Vewlix.
In a Vewlix wouldn't you just replace the PSU with one that can handle a better variety of input voltages? Unless your trying to keep it original it seems unnecessary to use a step down transformer.

I don't own a Vewlix so am speaking without experience with them.
 

twistedsymphony

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In a Vewlix wouldn't you just replace the PSU with one that can handle a better variety of input voltages? Unless your trying to keep it original it seems unnecessary to use a step down transformer.
I always try to keep cabs as original as possible. that includes running the original PSU.
 

Sp33dFr34k

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jassin000

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I always try to keep cabs as original as possible. that includes running the original PSU.
Yea that... I even lost the ability to play some JAMMA boards/JVS boards when I went all official Taito parts with my cabs.
As mentioned it's worth it, these cabs are a collectors item just as much as the PCBs we are putting inside them.

The parts should be 100% official/stock (aka no Shadaloo or Chewlix) with zero permanent modifications, that's my 0.02$.
 

Sp33dFr34k

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I always try to keep cabs as original as possible. that includes running the original PSU.
The parts should be 100% official/stock (aka no Shadaloo or Chewlix) with zero permanent modifications, that's my 0.02$.
This is my aim as well, I have modded my NAC a lot, mostly wiring wise, but EVERYTHING is easily reversible by just disconnecting some connectors. I have upgraded the PSU to a NVS4000, but the NAC was also supplied with it as an "upgrade", so I do consider that original as well.
 

kidpanda

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I've got 10 candy cabs and have had them for well over 6 years now, never used a stepdown transformer
It's the PSU inside the cab the drives the requirement.Wouldn't matter if you had 100 candy cabs that never had an issue, if none of them used a Wei Ya for example.

As mentioned above, cheap Wei Ya PSUs can't operate with 120v in, they are wildly unstable if you do.
It won't damage cab electronics, as the Vewlix's other power supplies are internal and unaffected far as I can tell...

But arcade PCBs, they will cook on the 12v line when it spikes up to 15v and drops back down to 8v.
Yea I'm speaking from experience here, I destroyed a MVS 1FZ's audio amp this way.
I've only had one cab that had a Wei-Ya PSU, and be rest assured, it was gone within the week. It took no time for me to see the power spikes with it. I check voltages constantly even when changing PCBs out. I did a SUN PSU swap out on my AWSD that weekend. It should go without saying that a Wei-Ya should be ripped out ASAP.
 

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Sharp Image can refurb your psu if you are in the usa, however they seem to be getting overloaded lately. They did manage to fix up two canary psus for me recently. If you really want to go overboard, you can get an NVS4000 and do a conversion; however you will lose -5v. I would try to get your psu recapped/serviced before going another route.

These are direct drop ins for your NAC speakers and sound great in stereo:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/122684221284

Ninja edit: how bad is the harness? got a pic? - Those hirose edges are usually rock solid.
 
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