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Retro Hardware Capacitors LISTS

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[EDIT] I found a stash of 10uf 50v caps to finish recapping my board. I think I've come to the conclusion that Sega just ran out of 10uf16v caps and just used 50v. Every 10uf cap, both big and small, were 50v and all made by Sanyo. So for now, I'm good. Maybe it'll be good reference for someone in the future.

Could someone confirm if all the 10uf caps on the S18 stock board (clutch hitter in this case) are indeed 10uf 16v as the Capacitor Database says? I'm recapping mine at the moment and the ones I'm pulling off are 10uf 50v. Just want to confirm before I potentially put undervolted caps on. I'd appreciate any help on this.
 
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raynex said:
[EDIT] I found a stash of 10uf 50v caps to finish recapping my board. I think I've come to the conclusion that Sega just ran out of 10uf16v caps and just used 50v. Every 10uf cap, both big and small, were 50v and all made by Sanyo. So for now, I'm good. Maybe it'll be good reference for someone in the future.

Could someone confirm if all the 10uf caps on the S18 stock board (clutch hitter in this case) are indeed 10uf 16v as the Capacitor Database says? I'm recapping mine at the moment and the ones I'm pulling off are 10uf 50v. Just want to confirm before I potentially put undervolted caps on. I'd appreciate any help on this.
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Using a higher voltage rated capacitor for the same capacitance value is for the most part fine in this scenario.

16v is generally the lowest you would use as there's theoretically a 12v supply rail on the PCB even though most of the board logic is going to be running on the 5v.
 
Capcom Impress PSU - Credits to @BuddyC !

C1 50V 4,7 UF
C2 50V 22 UF 4MM DIA
C3 50V 2,2 UF 4MM DIA
C4 200V 220 UF(M) 25MM 20MM DIA
C5 50V 1 UF 4MM DIA
C10 50V 4,7 UF
C11 50V 10 UF 4MM DIA
C12 200V 220 UF(M) 25MM 20MM DIA
C13 50V 4,7 UF 4MM DIA
C14 50V 1 UF 4MM DIA
C15 50V 47 UF 5MM DIA
C17 10V 2200 UF 25MM 12MM DIA
C21 16V 1000 UF 8 MM DIA
C27 16V 1000 UF 8 MM DIA
C29 16V 470 UF 8MM DIA

Orderlist
50v 4,7 uf 4mm - 3x
50v 22 uf 4mm - 1x
50v 2,2 uf 4mm 1x
200v 220 uf 25mm tall 20 dia - 2x
50v 1 uf 4mm - 2x
50v 10 uf 4mm - 1x
50v 47 uf 5mm - 1x
10v 2200 uf 25 mm tall, 12mm dia - 1x
16v 1000 uf 8 mm - 2x
16v 470 uf 8mm - 1x
 
 
Hello
I was looking for the cap list of a Astro City PSU, model 400-5198 and found it in this thread, so thank you very much for this great collective work!
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1nMBeF7MfyWqYaPxwaINMSrF_YJJEp2VyCneYm8G4gtU/edit?gid=0#gid=0

But now I'm about to place an order on digikey and I'm not sure what capacitors to choose because for some of them there are too many options.
Nichikon or Panasonic? Lifetime @ temperature? General purpose or audio? Ripple current? Impedance? too many variations xD

Basically I just want to buy the best ones suited for my PSU so any advice on how to pickup them would be very appreciated.

For now I'm filtering on manufacturer (Nichikon) and diameter (x mm) and mounting type (through hole). Then trying to pick up the ones with more tolerance, more reliability, higher operating temperature and lower impedance.
In that sense, Nichikon UPW series, promoted as "Miniature Sized, Low lmpedance, High Reliability For Switching Power Supplies" looks good (though mostly marked as obsolete) and also others within the High Reliability Type.

This should be ok?
1760376776087.png
 
bubbly said:
But now I'm about to place an order on digikey and I'm not sure what capacitors to choose because for some of them there are too many options.
Nichikon or Panasonic? Lifetime @ temperature? General purpose or audio? Ripple current? Impedance? too many variations xD
Click to expand...

Those are very good questions about capacitors and I don't have expert answers, but I'll share with you my General Rules of Thumb:

1) Always replace electrolytic capacitors with electrolytic capacitors - don't swap in polymers, tantalums or ceramics if electrolytic caps were used originally.

2) The best electrolytic capacitor brands are Panasonic, Rubycon and Nichicon. Wurth is your next best if a cap you need isn't available from the Top 3 brands.

3) I always try to select the longest lifetime that I can for a given cap as long as its from the Top 3 brands. I won't change out a cap from the Top 3 brands for another brand just because the other brand offers a longer lifetime cap.

Definitely would like to hear what other people think on this topic - especially in terms of Ripple Current and audio use.
 
ShootTheCore said:
Definitely would like to hear what other people think on this topic - especially in terms of Ripple Current and audio use.
Click to expand...

I use Nichicon first because they have a handy chart: https://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/_assets/images/products/catalog/corporate/digital/chart_E.pdf

Here's a slice of it, you can see what the series are and how they relate. It's been helpful for me to decide what to use, and when. Beyond that I use audio caps for audio sections, high temp / long life for general use, and try to find the same series for anything large (often obsolete caps will have a newer version just with a different series name, but the specs are similar enough).

1761585703285.png
 
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Thank you for your answers and advice (and sorry for the late reply)

I also got below advice from a friend that knows much better than me.

For the primary bulk, that handles the main AC, it should have high ripple but NO low esr because that can destabilize thethe smps. Recommended series are Panasonic ts-ed or ts-up. Panasonic might be a little better than Nichicon but if you prefer Nichicon then LGY, LGU or LGS. For the others, if you prefer low esr then Panasonic FR or FM and Nichicon PW or HE
Click to expand...

So at the end I
This is the final list I got. It has been working for a few weeks. Max time the machine was on was yesterday around 6 hours.
I NIchicon because I've used in the past without any problem.
https://www.digikey.com/en/mylists/list/AOKHRH28SU

Now revisiting it, I'm not sure why I ended using two ULD (high ripple current) instead of PW or HE....
That Nichicon chart is awesome!
 
nassekova said:
Here is a CPS2 A-board "capmap" if it is any help. I did two of these lately and 2nd one of those had most of the 10uf electrolytic caps replaced with ceramics, so be aware. This capmap only has electrolytic ones, so no ceramics. and don't mind the picture, it is out of scale and just to give some idea where they locate :D

5x 220uf 16v
31x 10uf 25v (the amount on later rev is much smaller)
3x 47uf 16v
2x 100uf 16v
2x 22uf 16v
4x 1uf 50v
1x 2.2uf 50v
1x 1000uf 25v

capmap.jpeg
Click to expand...
Do you still have the picture for the cap locations? The image URL is broken.
 
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