jermz1
Grand Master
Do you think you could measure the bracket the holds the jamma connector? My aero doesnt have one. I can design one up and share the stl file here.
Sega Aero City Rebuild
- Thread starter bartre
- Start date
bartre
Professional
Sure, the base is 99mm X 29mm
The top is 99mm X 34mm high at the "ears" and the dip is 18mm high
Each ear is 12.5mm wide, and the dip is 74mm wide
The top mounting holes are 6mm away from the inner gap and 8.5mm away from the top
The mounting holes in the base are 19.5mm away from the sides and 9.5mm away from the front
The top is 99mm X 34mm high at the "ears" and the dip is 18mm high
Each ear is 12.5mm wide, and the dip is 74mm wide
The top mounting holes are 6mm away from the inner gap and 8.5mm away from the top
The mounting holes in the base are 19.5mm away from the sides and 9.5mm away from the front
jermz1
Grand Master
bartre
Professional
Close, but a couple errors with the ears-
The total height is 34mm, not 29mm
This means the dip down on the ears (where your image reads 11mm) should be a difference of 16mm
As to the thickness, its not quite as thick as the 16GA steel I used for the homemade one, and measures just under 2mm thick
The total height is 34mm, not 29mm
This means the dip down on the ears (where your image reads 11mm) should be a difference of 16mm
As to the thickness, its not quite as thick as the 16GA steel I used for the homemade one, and measures just under 2mm thick
jermz1
Grand Master
bartre
Professional
That looks right to me.
Now, I do have some concerns about the amount of force that gets applied to the bracket during insertion.
What maybe for the sake of 3d printing the bend should be reinforced?
Now, I do have some concerns about the amount of force that gets applied to the bracket during insertion.
What maybe for the sake of 3d printing the bend should be reinforced?
bartre
Professional
Got my Alberto panels today and started assembling that whole thing
Unfortunately the joystick mounts aren't compatible with the plates on my Seimitsu LS-56 sticks.
The mounts are 87mm end to end, does anyone know what plate I need?
Unfortunately the joystick mounts aren't compatible with the plates on my Seimitsu LS-56 sticks.
The mounts are 87mm end to end, does anyone know what plate I need?
Kavas
Champion
Make sure you're not a dummy like me and remove the protective film on the panels!
Keep them on, until they start getting messed up, then remove, and you still have a shiny panel
jermz1
Grand Master
It could be made a little bit thicker since the plastic part of the harness will not be in the way.
I can always put a metal file up too, for someone that wants to get it cut and bent.
bartre
Professional
Alright, I've got the bodies back and the reconstruction has begun!
But first, a note.
If you look carefully at the "before" photos, you'll see that one of the machines has this really gross box welded on by the coin box for a lockbar. Solution? Angle grinder.
Buuuuut the results really weren't very pretty.
In comes Alvin's Lab Metal. Basically aluminum putty that acts as a filler and can be powder coated.
This was my first time using it, and I'm really impressed. You can hardly tell that the lip was all goobered
Started by attaching the basics, topper, bezel, etc.-
And screwed in the handmade bracket I made, fits pretty dang well!
In that picture you can see that I also went ahead and resleeved the built in tie downs. My strategy was just heat shrink cut to length and warmed up with a lighter.
Now that I've got the harness in, I'm realizing that I don't have quite as much wire as I thought.
Would anyone with factory wiring in their aero mind snapping a couple pics so I can see how things are laid out inside?
But first, a note.
If you look carefully at the "before" photos, you'll see that one of the machines has this really gross box welded on by the coin box for a lockbar. Solution? Angle grinder.
Buuuuut the results really weren't very pretty.
In comes Alvin's Lab Metal. Basically aluminum putty that acts as a filler and can be powder coated.
This was my first time using it, and I'm really impressed. You can hardly tell that the lip was all goobered
Started by attaching the basics, topper, bezel, etc.-
And screwed in the handmade bracket I made, fits pretty dang well!
In that picture you can see that I also went ahead and resleeved the built in tie downs. My strategy was just heat shrink cut to length and warmed up with a lighter.
Now that I've got the harness in, I'm realizing that I don't have quite as much wire as I thought.
Would anyone with factory wiring in their aero mind snapping a couple pics so I can see how things are laid out inside?
Last edited:
bartre
Professional
Much work has been done, here's their current status-
All in all I was able to find the stock wiring routing via opt2not's thread on Aeros so shout outs to him
Mounted up the monitors and they work just like they did on my bench-
So all that's left now is to source a coin door, apply the art and stickers, and drop in the bezel and glass.
In sadder news though I found out the hard way that the power supply doesn't have enough juice to run a 4 slot neo Geo loaded with carts. Any 2 in any 2 slots are great. 3 and graphical glitches come up, 4 and the board gets stuck in a reset loop.
Guess I'm gonna try and source a 2 slot, but in the meantime I'll just have fun with my janktastic PGM mobo and some beat em ups
PS- I really want to grab a second smoke balltop for the neo, but they're sold out everywhere, anyone got a spare?
All in all I was able to find the stock wiring routing via opt2not's thread on Aeros so shout outs to him
Mounted up the monitors and they work just like they did on my bench-
So all that's left now is to source a coin door, apply the art and stickers, and drop in the bezel and glass.
In sadder news though I found out the hard way that the power supply doesn't have enough juice to run a 4 slot neo Geo loaded with carts. Any 2 in any 2 slots are great. 3 and graphical glitches come up, 4 and the board gets stuck in a reset loop.
Guess I'm gonna try and source a 2 slot, but in the meantime I'll just have fun with my janktastic PGM mobo and some beat em ups
PS- I really want to grab a second smoke balltop for the neo, but they're sold out everywhere, anyone got a spare?
Looking great! I’m glad my restoration thread was able to help you out.
I still need to post my second Aero Restore, right after I do a couple finishing touches. but I’ve been lazy lately
I still need to post my second Aero Restore, right after I do a couple finishing touches. but I’ve been lazy lately
Chewable
Beginner
I am rewiring my Aero City and I have a couple of wiring harnesses for it, but they are in pieces.
Do you have a higher res photo of the power brick connected you posted a photo of it here:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/sega-aero-city-rebuild.16913/post-272815
Do you have a higher res photo of the power brick connected you posted a photo of it here:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/sega-aero-city-rebuild.16913/post-272815
bartre
Professional
Sure, what do you need to know?
(So I can be sure to cover what you need)
Also, there's a manual here in case-
https://www.hard--candy.com/wiki/candy/Aero_City
(So I can be sure to cover what you need)
Also, there's a manual here in case-
https://www.hard--candy.com/wiki/candy/Aero_City
Chewable
Beginner
So that manual helped a lot - I got the power figured out and I think I have the rest pretty much in control. If I have any questions I will reach out. Thank you for the link.
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
bgwelistyl
Enthusiast
I think you can 3d print the aero city mold and buy some wheels from hardware store to complete it