if by chance one of the windys is not salvageable but the psu works ill buy the psu. Just throwing it out there
- Thread starter XeD
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For Sale
Montreal got at least one blue windy2 marquee, what’s the proper way to scan it?
well who ever got it chime in or can someone contact them so we can get a scan coin on it
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
You know, not for nothing Hawaii, but wtf.
Do you know how lucky you are that you got two free power supplies?
Do you know how lucky you are that you have @rewrite basically repairing multiple cabs for you?
I know you got fucked by KC, but stop begging and barking out orders to people. You're not doing it "for the community", you're doing it to benefit yourself.
If you want a blue marquee so bad, scan a different color one in and fix it in Photoshop.
Do you know how lucky you are that you got two free power supplies?
Do you know how lucky you are that you have @rewrite basically repairing multiple cabs for you?
I know you got fucked by KC, but stop begging and barking out orders to people. You're not doing it "for the community", you're doing it to benefit yourself.
If you want a blue marquee so bad, scan a different color one in and fix it in Photoshop.
I know I'm very lucky and humble by it. I'm sorry if i have come off wrong in anyway.
I apologize to everyone.
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It's small enough you can just go to most any local office store and have it scanned. Go for 300DPI, just make sure they line it up nice and square to the edges of the scanner. I'm going to get the green one done tomorrow and get it uploaded to the AO wiki.
Fixed up the first of my cabs. Started with the Irem Madonna.
I always test cabs one part at a time. So unplugged everything and took out the monitor. Remove the neck board and anode cap. Connected to my CRT analyzer, all three guns give a reading. I rejuvenate the green as it's showing 'bad'. Reconnect the chassis and plug it in the wall. Have glow at the back, good stuff.
Next up the PSU. Connected a cheap PCB to the jamma harness and plugged in the PSU. PSU light lights up, all three voltages look good.
Marquee light and the fan at the back of the cab, also running off AC, are done for. Will swap those with some LED strip and a new 12V DC fan.
Alright, time to put the monitor back in. Connect the video connector, turn everything on. There's a green square in the middle of the screen with some kind of vertical interference going on. I grabbed my camera and I was about to take a pic of it when the screen cut out.
OK, so it's faulty.
Removed the chassis, turned it over and there's a few spots that look very toasty. Time for a recap. Not my favorite chassis to do this as there's three vertical PCBs that need to be desoldered. Put all new caps in, replaced a few resistors that had visible heat damage (they read OK on the multimeter, but better swap them out now) and went over the cracked solder joints with new solder.
Time for another try!
And what do you know, it works. Dialed in the colors and geometry and it looks absolutely stunning. Razor sharp and the colors really pop out. I attached a pic, but naturally it looks way better in real life. Got to love the MS8.
Cab is still rusty as hell, but it works.
22 cabs to go.
I always test cabs one part at a time. So unplugged everything and took out the monitor. Remove the neck board and anode cap. Connected to my CRT analyzer, all three guns give a reading. I rejuvenate the green as it's showing 'bad'. Reconnect the chassis and plug it in the wall. Have glow at the back, good stuff.
Next up the PSU. Connected a cheap PCB to the jamma harness and plugged in the PSU. PSU light lights up, all three voltages look good.
Marquee light and the fan at the back of the cab, also running off AC, are done for. Will swap those with some LED strip and a new 12V DC fan.
Alright, time to put the monitor back in. Connect the video connector, turn everything on. There's a green square in the middle of the screen with some kind of vertical interference going on. I grabbed my camera and I was about to take a pic of it when the screen cut out.
OK, so it's faulty.
Removed the chassis, turned it over and there's a few spots that look very toasty. Time for a recap. Not my favorite chassis to do this as there's three vertical PCBs that need to be desoldered. Put all new caps in, replaced a few resistors that had visible heat damage (they read OK on the multimeter, but better swap them out now) and went over the cracked solder joints with new solder.
Time for another try!
And what do you know, it works. Dialed in the colors and geometry and it looks absolutely stunning. Razor sharp and the colors really pop out. I attached a pic, but naturally it looks way better in real life. Got to love the MS8.
Cab is still rusty as hell, but it works.
22 cabs to go.
Attachments
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BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
90sCyberThriller
Student
Madonna's are a little smaller then aero city cabs. MS8-25. I spent a lot of time dialing in mine and yeah it's absolutely stunning. What a beautiful monitor! Nice work @nem
Did they come with the Marquee holders? if not I can give you the dimensions and some nice pictures if you want to make one out of acrylic
@8bitforlife, definitely going to get it sandblasted and powdercoated. It deserves nothing less. I might try to do the sandblasting myself, since there's so many cabs that need it and it's going to be super expensive otherwise.
@DecepticonZero, as mentioned above, it's a MS8-25. It's a nicer model of it too, because it has additional daughter boards that are missing from others and also a remote. I'll try to look up the actual model number of it.
@90sCyberThriller, no marquee holders. It's actually missing one of the screw holes to secure the marquee holder, because someone in China wanted to have start buttons at the top of the cab. So it has a 30mm hole where the screw hole should be.
Oh, and one thing I forgot to mention that I did as well, after recapping and seeing it working I adjusted B+ voltage to 92V DC. Powered on the monitor without a video signal, put my red meter lead on TP1 and black meter lead on TP2 (ground) and adjusted the +B pot. The test points are next to the fuse, the pot is near the flyback under the heatsink.
@DecepticonZero, as mentioned above, it's a MS8-25. It's a nicer model of it too, because it has additional daughter boards that are missing from others and also a remote. I'll try to look up the actual model number of it.
@90sCyberThriller, no marquee holders. It's actually missing one of the screw holes to secure the marquee holder, because someone in China wanted to have start buttons at the top of the cab. So it has a 30mm hole where the screw hole should be.
Oh, and one thing I forgot to mention that I did as well, after recapping and seeing it working I adjusted B+ voltage to 92V DC. Powered on the monitor without a video signal, put my red meter lead on TP1 and black meter lead on TP2 (ground) and adjusted the +B pot. The test points are next to the fuse, the pot is near the flyback under the heatsink.
I hit the yellow spots on the Egret II with acetone too. Here are some pics:
Tools of the trade:
This stuff is pretty caustic and I have seen it melt plastic. Don't apply directly to the cab. Use some sort of applicator and keep it localized to the area you are attacking. Once off, make sure you remove any residue as it will keep active until it is removed. I used a sponge and dish soap to scrub the spot. Napkins to remove the soap.
Tools of the trade:
- The 100% pure acetone sold at Walmart for $2.48 a bottle
- Some left over napkins from some fried chicken joint
This stuff is pretty caustic and I have seen it melt plastic. Don't apply directly to the cab. Use some sort of applicator and keep it localized to the area you are attacking. Once off, make sure you remove any residue as it will keep active until it is removed. I used a sponge and dish soap to scrub the spot. Napkins to remove the soap.
Attachments
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
^ this. It is not looking like this chassis can be repaired, and no other tube will fit. I spent most of yesterday and today, PFX will not fit properly so unless we can get replacement or repaired chassis, these windys are dead in the water.
The tubes paired with MS2934's will fit. And so will the Chinese tubes that are coupled with Sanwa 29e31s's that are in Time Crisis 3. Aaaand the tubes in Blast Cities will fit. Can confirm the first two first-hand. The Blast tubes I've read in a bunch of places.
Tube shipping is rough. If you were local I'd give you a MS2934 tube.
I had a feeling that would be the case with both our Windy 2 chassis, but had my fingers crossed you would be lucky with Sharp Image Repair. So they weren't able to do anything with your chassis?
I was hoping to be able to throw a PFX in if needed, how does it not fit? Due to the bezel? Did you try back mounting?
You mean the original Windy tube can take a Nanao MS2934 chassis? If so in theory it could take a Nanao MS2930, MS2931, MS2932, or MS2933 chassis as well?
I knew a Blast tube plus chassis combo would fit, but they are not exactly easy to come by either.
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
@kuze I'm talking strictly about the tube. TC3 cabs are dirt cheap (see them pass through auctions under $100 all the time) and come with two monitors in each. They're a cheap source for replacing the tube if you want just 31k.
Not sure how compatible they are with other chassis, but the tube will fit flush with the bezel with no modification at all.
@DecepticonZero I put the Sanwa 29e31s in in the end, tube and chassis, but I test fit the 2934 tube and it's just fine (I have 3 of these just sitting around).
Not sure how compatible they are with other chassis, but the tube will fit flush with the bezel with no modification at all.
@DecepticonZero I put the Sanwa 29e31s in in the end, tube and chassis, but I test fit the 2934 tube and it's just fine (I have 3 of these just sitting around).
How much too wide? Hate to even consider it but maybe the hood could be trimmed down on the inside? Certainly would prefer not to make permanent alterations like that though.
