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Hey @Darksoft and all, I just got my CPS2 multi kit, very excited! Everything is working very well except that I am unable to close the lid with the LCD selector cable plugged in. Only can close it if it is disconnected, which is not very useful. I just got it of the latest 2020 batch from High Score Saves? Maybe the supplied cable is different height? It definitely hits against the top of the case
I experienced the same issue. You need to remove the plastic tab of the ribbon cable on the end that inserts into the multi PCB. Pull it off with some pliers.
 
E.g. remove this black plastic tab.
IMG_20200331_095103.jpg
 
Hey @Darksoft and all, I just got my CPS2 multi kit, very excited! Everything is working very well except that I am unable to close the lid with the LCD selector cable plugged in. Only can close it if it is disconnected, which is not very useful. I just got it of the latest 2020 batch from High Score Saves? Maybe the supplied cable is different height? It definitely hits against the top of the case
I experienced the same issue. You need to remove the plastic tab of the ribbon cable on the end that inserts into the multi PCB. Pull it off with some pliers.
E.g. remove this black plastic tab.
IMG_20200331_095103.jpg
That did it, thanks guys!

I thought it was part of the crimping of the connector. I tried shaving off some plastic, but wasn't enough.
 
okay, I've got a new CPS2 multi kit, this time for me.
Running on a revision 4 board with a G Pal, patch wire running underneath the board per the setup video Mitsu posted.
No key writing wires have been soldered yet.
However, I'm getting garbled graphics and sound regardless of what game I try to run, encrypted or not.
Pictured is the opening of MVC Unlocked.
I've also run the test roms with no issue, aside from the screen afterwards just being blocks
I've tested on 2 different A boards with no change and reseated everything 3X.
Any clues what the issue could be?

pics-
https://imgur.com/a/mJIKfGR
okay, reseated everything again, double checked my jumpers with a meter, and tested again.
Verified I have the wire from the G pal going to the right spot.
No change.

Should I try running the leg from the pal directly to j17 on the multi?
 
You need to remove pin 9 from the socket and connect the pin to J17 or the point on the board. It won't work properly otherwise.
 
Just installed my multi without the key writing wires. I have a -3 board and downloaded the old decrypted pack. Here are pictures of my setup. Thank you in advance: https://imgur.com/a/6oKhMww
Remove that brown wire from the back of the B Board. You need to install the wire directly to the pin 9 of that PALG and make sure that the pin 9 is not inserted in the socket.
 
Beating a dead horse here, but nine times out of ten -

Solid non-black - "Most Often" B-board is not seated to A-board tightly and has come loose, That literally happened to me this week. I hadn't used my cab in a while and it was moved a bit, B-board came loose and was stuck on greenscreen.

Artifacts/lines- "Most often" B-board is not lined up with A-board correctly. Same thing happens where your Jamma harness is not lined up with the PCB, happened to me yesterday with a thundercade PCB.

Crazy Audio noise - Your audio pin bypass wiring is incorrect. There's different board revisions and chips. Following the guide closely.

The important thing is to not freak out and mangle anything. Be gentle with the kit itself.
 
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okay, reseated everything again, double checked my jumpers with a meter, and tested again.Verified I have the wire from the G pal going to the right spot.
No change.

Should I try running the leg from the pal directly to j17 on the multi?
okay, tried running directly to J17 with no change.
Any ideas on what I need to do?
I'm completely out of ideas at this point.
 
Are you sure that there is no jump wire below on the other side of the PCB?

I would suggest that you get in touch with @Mitsurugi-w who can have a look at it.
 
yes, I desoldered the wire i put in and pull the pin 9 leg from my G Pal
 
Then IMO either your kit is not sitting properly, your PAL is bad or jumpers are bad (which you said you already checked).

So I'd try sitting the kit and with a new PALG.
 
Update: https://imgur.com/a/phIpk5n

Thank you for the response. I removed the brown wire, removed pin 9 from the G Pal, soldered that to the J17 pin on the board, reseated all of the darksoft pcbs, reseated the b board, readjusted the cps2i/o, ran the 101010 and 010101 rom tests (which loaded fine), and the games are coming up fine, except there are lines coming down the video.

YKsf715.jpg

P88MzjT.jpg

yM3DgE3.jpg


I’ve recorded and taken pictures of the board and monitor. I’ve also tested this with a known working b board and it works fine. Again, thank you all in advance and I hope I haven’t missed a step.
 
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Bad connection between A and B boards, reseat and look for bent pins on the interconnects.
 
those lines definetly looks like a bad A/b connection as stated. Try blowing the pins and the female headers with compressed air and checking for bent bins like @xodaraP said.

Also, try to press down in the connectors while it's on to see if the lines go away when pressing down on the B board.
 
Update: https://imgur.com/a/phIpk5n

Thank you for the response. I removed the brown wire, removed pin 9 from the G Pal, soldered that to the J17 pin on the board, reseated all of the darksoft pcbs, reseated the b board, readjusted the cps2i/o, ran the 101010 and 010101 rom tests (which loaded fine), and the games are coming up fine, except there are lines coming down the video.
I’ve recorded and taken pictures of the board and monitor. I’ve also tested this with a known working b board and it works fine. Again, thank you all in advance and I hope I haven’t missed a step
Thats 100% an offset B-board. I can recreate that right now. I would not recommend doing this while its powered on, but you just need to slightly shift it on the a-board. You have a bent pin or its not aligned. You're almost there dude.

Oh, I really hate to admit this, you "can" try it without the B-board case. Its possible your case is causing the misalignment. Thats not an ideal solution but it will prove your board is fine.
 
okay, I borrowed a Rev 7 B board off a friend and everything is working.
That points to the B board itself being the problem on first look, but I'll test some more things in order to be 100% sure.

Edit-
Pulled my PAL and verified that's good.
Inspected my B board, and well-
https://imgur.com/zXl6oMN
This looks like corrosion to me, I'm in the process of metering out all the connections.
Any tips on how best to clean this up/repair?
 
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okay, I borrowed a Rev 7 B board off a friend and everything is working.
That points to the B board itself being the problem on first look, but I'll test some more things in order to be 100% sure.
I have a revision 3 SFvsXM and had all the same issues. If youre at the point of just bad line artifacts its definitely working, just needs fiddling on the seating. GL with it.
 
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