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The PF chassis I’ve had- 2 came with my cabs and they had perfectly fine solder.

The two I got from yaton were terrible. Full reflow and recap did not fix my issues. Both yaton chassis had the same issue- power on, blinking blue screen and the remote board does nothing.
The chassis I recapped still is non-functional. Has the exact same issue you described. I can make out a faint 'NO SIGNAL' error when not feeding it a signal. I am going to buy the 3 filter caps for it. Also bought extras of all the transistors for the chassis. Will replace them one buy on and let you know what part ended up fixing the issue.
 
would anyone be able to get me pinout on the windy2 psu @SnakeGrunger said hed would get it but hes busy atm with io stuff so I thought if someone else could get it for me it would lesson his load. Need pinout of all connections psu. If not no biggy
 
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@g60hot I'm missing some flex cables but sure I could squeeze my last two to you ! Email me your PayPal addy and when I get the last remaining cables I will send you a PayPal invoice.

But once this is done I will be all out. I might release my gerber files and BOM to GitHub so anyone can make theirs. Thanks so much for the support everyone !!
 
Can anyone with a working toshiba take a pic of the connectors on it? I should have done it before I shipped it out. Mainly the ones around the pots on the front of it near the flyback.
 
How did you guys install the egret 2 NOS illumination panel?

I'm thinking self-Locking retaining rings?

Self-Locking Retaining Rings.jpg
 
How did you guys install the egret 2 NOS illumination panel?

I'm thinking self-Locking retaining rings?

Self-Locking Retaining Rings.jpg
Small rubber o-ring from Home Depot slid all the way to the frame till it is snug. Zip tie behind it to secure it in place. Not worried about security in a home environment. Just want to prevent displacement.
 
Anyone has worked on a windy 2 power supply? I think my friend got one of these from here and his problem is not the fly back cause I put up the screen pot and saw raster lines. I actually think the power supply might not be working cause the arcade board was getting no power from it.
 
Small rubber o-ring from Home Depot slid all the way to the frame till it is snug. Zip tie behind it to secure it in place. Not worried about security in a home environment. Just want to prevent displacement.
Thanks for this! this is better than my try, which was using some double sided mounting adhesive where the original was. That left one stubborn corner unset, but I didn’t have any better ideas.

I just tried some rubber washers with zip ties and it seems firmer across the middle but the stubborn corner still slides out.

To compensate I just put some heat shrink tubing over that prong, then a zip tie, and it seems to be holding the rubber washer a bit better than only the zip tie. I’ll leave it for a while to see if it wiggles itself out, but I’m hopeful.
 
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Anyone has worked on a windy 2 power supply? I think my friend got one of these from here and his problem is not the fly back cause I put up the screen pot and saw raster lines. I actually think the power supply might not be working cause the arcade board was getting no power from it.
that's my problem. If you open it up and see a bunch of red clips that splice the lines you have problems. Stuff failed so instead of fixing the parts they siphoned power from other areas. Which in turn causes strain of those parts. Mines dead dead. I bought almost all those parts but I need some diode readings from members here to buy those replacements.

Best thing you can do is get a working nvs-4000 and make adapters for the windy2 harness.
 
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