What's new
By:
Filters

WTB Candy Cab!!!

Want To Buy
Mitsurugi-w said:
Well they've got the back panel off so checking for neck glow on the monitor isn't an issue. Sounds like they aren't getting any power. It might literally be a fuse. lol

Troubleshooting this should be pretty easy for someone even with a little bit of experience. I would say you need to pick up a multimeter now since you are now in the arcade hobby. You will use it a lot.
Click to expand...
This. If you don't have a reasonable multimeter (you need to be able to check for AC and DC power as well as continuity) you need to get one

And yes, you definitely need to check the main fuse on the power supply - there's 1 fuse on the back of the cabinet where you connect up your 3 pin power cord and another one on the power supply itself underneath the main cabinet switch :)
 
Last edited:
Congrats on the pickup and let the project begin!

Personally I don't like the burn spot on the neckboard either, but it may be nothing. After that, you can check out the monitor chassis mounted below. Also, remember that getting the monitor turned on is just the first part. It will most likely need adjustments to the color pots and geometry.
 
shaeri87 said:
Hi Everyone! The guy who found this Cyber Lead basically gave it to us for free, because he had no idea what to do with it, he found it in one of those storage auctions. We've cleaned it up, and taken a look inside. Here are some photos. We are trying to turn it on, by using the cord from our computer monitor, but it did not turn on. Can anyone help us figure out how to troubleshoot this? Thank you!

20170225_132541.jpg
20170225_132626.jpg
Click to expand...
That is a beautiful cab:)..if you have a cute sister have her look for a cab like that for her future boyfriend..me;).. In all seriousness congrats on a great find:)
 
wow that's an amazing score.

If the monitor is non working you could send the chassis out to pnl video for repair and still be out ahead.
 
Last edited:
I would just like to say "BE CAREFUL" poking around the monitor. You can get a nasty shock even when it's unplugged.

Keep your hands and any tools away from the suction cup on the back of the monitor.

:thumbsup:
 
It has the original 100 yen sticker and the coin slot cover, my Cyber Lead is jealous :P
 
Check/replace the fuse on the rear panel (its inside the round grey thing with a slot in) - if OK check/replace the one on the power supply at the front. Also check for any interlock switches as it won't power up if they're not closed.

Plug a known good power lead into it and switch on, operate the switch at the front and listen for any noises (static or a bong from the degauss circuit on the monitor) or any LED's lighting up.

If still nothing, unplug it then get a meter out and start checking for continuity from inlet forwards. I got caught out with a cab that had an extra on/off switch on the bottom (egret-2).

BTW the PCB is "Street Fighter II dash" - which is the Japanese version of "SF2:Chapmpion Edition" - which is highly desirable as its easy to convert it to GnG - and worth $150-200 if working.
 
What an amazing score.

xodaraP said:
Someone with a better eye for it than me needs to look at the third picture, I think the neck on the tube is cracked. There's also an alarming burnt looking patch on the neck board.
Click to expand...
bradtemple87 said:
Personally I don't like the burn spot on the neckboard either, but it may be nothing.
Click to expand...
There's no burnt spot on the neck board. There's a piece of clear plastic in front of the neck board. Any discoloration there is is on the plastic.
 
penrhos said:
BTW the PCB is "Street Fighter II dash" - which is the Japanese version of "SF2:Chapmpion Edition" - which is highly desirable as its easy to convert it to GnG - and worth $150-200 if working.
Click to expand...
I thought Dash was just the 12 MHz version of the CPS1?
 
Aurich said:
penrhos said:
BTW the PCB is "Street Fighter II dash" - which is the Japanese version of "SF2:Chapmpion Edition" - which is highly desirable as its easy to convert it to GnG - and worth $150-200 if working.
Click to expand...
I thought Dash was just the 12 MHz version of the CPS1?
Click to expand...
In Japan SF2:CE was called SF2:Dash. Then later on the updated motherboards were called Dash as well I believe.
 
penrhos said:
Check/replace the fuse on the rear panel (its inside the round grey thing with a slot in) - if OK check/replace the one on the power supply at the front. Also check for any interlock switches as it won't power up if they're not closed.

Plug a known good power lead into it and switch on, operate the switch at the front and listen for any noises (static or a bong from the degauss circuit on the monitor) or any LED's lighting up.

If still nothing, unplug it then get a meter out and start checking for continuity from inlet forwards. I got caught out with a cab that had an extra on/off switch on the bottom (egret-2).

BTW the PCB is "Street Fighter II dash" - which is the Japanese version of "SF2:Chapmpion Edition" - which is highly desirable as its easy to convert it to GnG - and worth $150-200 if working.
Click to expand...
On a Cyber Lead the only switch is on the front panel of the power supply, so the first thing is to check the fuses.

If the cabinet is powering on at all the DMD marquee will power up and do it's thing assuming it's still connected, but there's no other LEDs to indicate power on these. That's why I suggested looking for neck glow on the monitor or listening for the coil whine from the monitor firing up.

I'm still concerned the tube neck may be cracked from that photo, I'd be interested to see if OP can have a closer look and confirm

That's also why I wanted the OP to check the dip switch for attract mode sounds is turned on so we can see if it's playing blind
 
Hello Everyone,

Thank you for your input and congratulating us on our find! It was kind of a weird twist of fate, if you will, because the guy who responded to my Wanted ad on Craigslist, said that he did not know anything about it, did not have room for it, and just wanted to give it away basically, and came that same day to deliver it!

Update on the cab:
We determined that the fuse in the power supply was blown, so we went over to Radioshack to get a new 7A fuse, and a new power cord. Got home, put the new fuse in, plugged it in, and flipped the power supply switch on.
This time, it was clear that power was going into the machine, because we could hear static feedback from the speakers, however, the screen was not turning on, and there was no sound from the game. We waited for a bit, and nothing really changed, so we decided to flip the power off. At that point, the monitor flashed white, and then turned off. That's the current status of the machine. So we know that the monitor can at least turn on, and is not completely dead, but that's about it. What photos should I take/post, for you guys to determine what the next step is for troubleshooting?

Other Questions:
1. Since this system has been rewired for JAMMA, and let's just say we want to be able to play a few games, what do we need to get in order to be able to switch out the games? For example, would we need to get a CPS2 and a game board, or...? Currently it seems like the game chip is just stuck onto the JAMMA board, or something, it's not a cartridge. We would like to know what we need in order to make switching out game cartridges, more easy. Or, considering that there is already a Street Fighter II game chip on the board, do we just get another chip for the game we want (ie: Marvel Super Heroes vs. Street Fighter or Marvel vs. CAPCOM II) and stick it on the JAMMA board like how it is currently?

2. If we wanted to get Dark Soft, would we be able to, with this configuration?

3. We need to get new joysticks and buttons, but I'm not sure which are the right ones to get for this cab. Link please!

Thank you!
 
That motherboard is the CPS1 system. The predecessor to the CPS2 that plays the game you want. I would recommend getting the cab running first with that pcb before going further. Now that you get power to the cab I would get that multimeter and begin taking measurements on the JAMMA connector (long blue connector the motherboar is plugged into). Let us know once you have a meter and we will try to walk you through it.
 
To answer your questions:

1) JAMMA is the wiring standard, think of this as the 'slot' in a console for a cartridge but instead of a cartridge you plug in various game boards, the connector is standard across many games (generally older stuff will not be JAMMA standard but can be adapted) - to switch out the game you unplug that board from the connector (called the edge connector or JAMMA edge) and plug in whatever other board you want.

As Mitsurugi mentioned what you have is a CPS1 boardset, however it and CPS2 are both JAMMA standard so easily swapped.

2) To use the Darksoft multi you will need to obtain a CPS2 motherboard and game set (generally referred to as an A and B board) but the cab will accept this without trouble as they're both JAMMA

3) The 2 main manufacturers for sticks and buttons for candy cabs are Seimitsu and Sanwa. Personally I really like Sanwa buttons (and these are generally the preferred buttons in fight sticks) and I like Seimitsu sticks but the Sanwa JLF tends to be preferred by the fighting game community. I also play shmups and other games on my cabs and find the Seimitsu more versatile but the Sanwa is definitely better for fighters.

You need 6 30mm buttons for the main buttons on each side and 2 24mm buttons for the start buttons. If you're like me and anal about originality, the cab originally came with green on the left side, yellow on the right side and red start buttons :)
 
shaeri87 said:
We need to get new joysticks and buttons, but I'm not sure which are the right ones to get for this cab. Link please!
Click to expand...
Joysticks and buttons involve a bit of personal preference. But since you ostensibly got the cab for fighters the Sanwa JLF is generally the stick of choice:

https://arcadeshock.com/collections...-denshi-joystick-w-base-harness-jlf-tp-8yt-sk

Then you can pick your top, either balltop (traditional) or battop (US and Korean style):

https://arcadeshock.com/collections/balltops

For buttons the main ones are 30mm, the smaller start buttons are 24 mm:

https://arcadeshock.com/collections/pushbuttons

Arcade Shock is local, so I like to support them. An alternate place that's good is https://www.focusattack.com
 
As mentioned, use the multimeter to start while the machine is on to see what the power supply is providing. Some games can be very picky about the 5v they need to operate.

If the machine does happen to be at or close to 5v then you can look at monitor related issues. Like the other member mentioned. It would be good to see closer pics of the neck, neckboard with that piece of plastic cut off the back held by zip ties, and possibly the chassis below that area.

I'm not a monitor whisperer, but we have plenty of people in the scene you should be able to narrow down the problem.
 
Last edited:
Thanks everyone for your help! We'll pick up a multimeter and test the power going to the JAMMA connector and then we're also going to have someone in the area try and diagnose the problem. Hope to have an update soon.

Regarding game boards for this CPS1, so, currently there is that Street Fighter 2 board on there -- what would be the most cost effective way of getting more games? We may just want to get a couple other games, we don't necessarily need to be able to play a thousand different games, although that would be cool, but we would be really happy just being able to play a few. I'm looking on ebay for CPS1 games, but I haven't been able to find any, can someone tell me what I should be searching for?

Thank you Aurich for the links, we are going to take a look and decide on some soon.
 
shaeri87 said:
Regarding game boards for this CPS1, so, currently there is that Street Fighter 2 board on there -- what would be the most cost effective way of getting more games? We may just want to get a couple other games, we don't necessarily need to be able to play a thousand different games, although that would be cool, but we would be really happy just being able to play a few. I'm looking on ebay for CPS1 games, but I haven't been able to find any, can someone tell me what I should be searching for?
Click to expand...
The most cost effective way to get a bunch of great games that also seem to be the ones you want is to do a Darksoft CPS2 setup. See this forum: CPS2 Multigame

Here are the games that were on the CPS2 hardware: http://www.system16.com/hardware.php?id=795

I forget now which one you had mentioned, Marvel vs Capcom maybe? Anyways, all those games are on there. Super SF2, the Alpha games, Puzzle Fighter, etc.

As for searching eBay, just takes the right terms. Here's my personal generic search query: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...en+-"board+game"+-"not+working"+-"not+tested"
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top