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DARKSOFT CPS1 Multi - Support thread

@SubScorpion great information. Can you please copy+paste that information here, so it's also available here in case something happens with AM.

Thanks.
 
Darksoft said:
@SubScorpion great information. Can you please copy+paste that information here, so it's also available here in case something happens with AM.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Sure. This is quoted from NoAffinity's original post on klov from 2/23/18:

Capcom CPS-1 "Stereo" Sound from CN5 Connector

Some of you may enjoy this. I saw an old post on Neo Geo forums saying "just connect via CN5 and you get stereo sound from your CPS1 A board", not much more information. I saw a couple other posts across other forums (including here) ranging from “I’m working on this thing, which I saw at Neo Geo forums” but no follow-up confirming success or failure, and another thread “I made this adapter for CN5 output but the sound is garbage”.

Well, I made an adapter for CN5, and sure enough, the sound was garbage. Right channel louder than left, but overall audibility very low with an external amp turned all the way up.

So, I stared at the CPS1 motherboard schematic for a while, and it sure looks like the intent is there to provide 2 channel sound via CN5. Well, the key is removing VR1. Alternatively, you may be able to put a simple on/off switch in line ahead of VR1. I haven’t tested that yet, though.

1) Make an adapter from a PC case fan plug spliced to a stereo 3.5mm connector (or other suitable stereo connector)
20180221_160923.jpg

2) Connect adapter to game board and to an amp. I hooked it up to my Q-sound amp, and used this Radio Shack volume control adapter, with 3.5mm in and 3.5mm out. If you are hooking up to an amp that has volume control on it, then you obviously don't need something like this.
1658347242113.png

3) Enjoy “stereo” sound from CPS1 games that support it.

Note that once VR1 is removed, you will not get audio through the JAMMA connector. So, it's either JAMMA mono or CN5 "stereo", but not both simultaneously. If someone can stare at the CPS1 A board schematic longer than I did and see a way to have both going simultaneously, please post.
CPS1-A-Schema.png


Supported game list. I thought I saw a longer list just a couple days ago on a different forum, but couldn’t find it again. If somebody finds it, please copy and paste.

http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...m-CPS-1-boards&p=133483&viewfull=1#post133483

1941
Adventure Quiz Capcom World
Adventure Quiz Capcom World 2
Street Fighter II (also CE, etc.)
Strider
UN Squadron
Captain Commando

Enjoy!
 
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I havent tried that, and I wont have time in a few weeks, so I cant say if it's safe or not.
 
jassin000 said:
I always use 32gb's, sometimes I will format the FAT32 partition smaller however (depending on the size needed) and I always adjust the cluster size (to 64k).
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The card I mentioned before works great, although I had at first tried the 64 Kb allocation like you suggested, but that massively slowed it down. 32 Kb was recommended online and also the default (for SDHC at 32 GB+, IIRC) using the official SD Card Formatter app. Once I did 32 Kb instead, it was much faster. I have a very noticeable speed-up with loading games on the multi now.
 
I would not like to be accused of blasphemy but it would be possible to obtain a firmware and modded roms to make the cps1 games that are not q sound work in stereo or in any case via a stereo amplifier?
 
Hi all,
Recently I'm having issue with my cps1 multi acting weird, both 1st and 2nd player don't respond to 1st button (all other buttons work fine). I tried the A board with original B & C boards and it worked fine. I set all A, B & C dipswitches to off. I even re-set to on and off again to make sure they're all really set to off.
Is anyone having this issue before? Thank you in advance for your help.
 
Sorry guys, my silly mistake. I think I installed the edge connector the part side facing inward instead of outward. That's the reason all games didn't respond to button 1 because of the gap on the part side of edge connector. It has no issue now with button 1 for both players.
 
Only Pang3 and Ghouls N Ghosts work for me, I get blank screen with most other games. Is this a recognized issue?
 
All mine work great. At first i downloaded the wrong rom pack and Final Fight AE didn't work.

Now everything does. Idk if that's any help
 
I bought 2 of these C boards from China. Chip looks modded- might this be the cause of the problems?


IMG_0154.jpg
IMG_0157.jpg
 
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Pinball said:
I bought 2 of these C boards from China. Chip looks modded- might this be the cause of the problems?
Click to expand...

You must "demodify" your C-Board by following these steps:

twistedsymphony said:
Undoing the modification:
To reverse the mod you simply need to disconnect these pins from +5V and then re-connect them to Ground.
  1. Start by removing the bodge wire
  2. If the pins are lifted then solder them back down in place.
  3. Use a Multi-Meter to check and make sure there is no lingering continuity between the pins and +5V
  4. Connect Pins 45 and 46 to ground. If the pins were lifted then you might already be done. On some boards this might be just adding a solder jumper to the nearest ground pin, on other boards you might need to add a new bodge wire to tie the pins to ground to "fix" any cut traces.
  5. Do a final check to make sure there is no continuity between +5V and Ground
Click to expand...
 
Pinball said:
I bought 2 of these C boards from China. Chip looks modded- might this be the cause of the problems?


IMG_0154.jpg
IMG_0157.jpg
Click to expand...
I have the same board, minus the bodge wire. On mine the traces were cut like yours but there is a solder blob connecting pins 44-46 and everything runs perfect.
 
Multi stopped working. SD card swapped and games flash and boot but just get upside down check text and some garbage on the right of the screen.

Take it the A board custom has gone?
 
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