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FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

For Sale
it’s for the alarm box. According to goole it says “ALERT”
 

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Well I have no alarm so I'll forego installing this decal. Plus its a bit ugly on the front there. Lol. I may just assume the other decal replaces the two beigh labels that I had above, on the left side of the back door. Maybe just a fancier updated decal than what I had.
 
@rewrite said my tosh was so burned in no point in fixing. And I think he sent my chassis off to help someone else from this deal. I still have yet to find a tosh for my stuff.
 
kuze said:
acblunden2 said:
No they couldn’t. But they expressed a lot of interest in hanging onto the chassis as long as they could. They really wanted to find a suitable replacement.
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Right on, I'm thinking of sending one of the Chinese MS2931 flybacks along with my PB7534 back to Sharp and see if they can give it a shot. I don't know much about the specifics of flyback design, but given that the MS2930/MS29311 is a drop in replacement chassis for the same tube and yoke, I would guess that the flyback is probably pretty similar.
Got a dead MS2931 I will also send them and they can put it in that instead otherwise.
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So this not good idea and shouldn't work like that without finding specific for voltages specs from various flyback windings and pins. When they say "nope it's bad it's shorted" they are hopefully testing and pulling to verify. Do shorted turn on winding test with Ringer and if they have hi pot check winding to winding leakage.

The original fly should be easy enough to very if it's shorted though like they say. Here I'll show you quickly.

Pull fly ring test notice bottom machine reads 32 (good). This is what you want, no shorted internal windings on my fly
GrOYPDW.jpg



Then to verify proper reading you create short winding on the core and check again. Now you see he reads only 3 echos (rings) before reduction to less than 25% signal level (aka bad from shorted winding). You test on the primary pins, that will be sufficient. Any of the secondary winding at all shorted, ones even isolated from primary and the magnetic energy on coil shorts.
HmWLo0r.jpg



You can easy create your own short around the transformer core. Which is what I did to show you "bad"reading... And at the same time verify my good reading.
 
yosai said:
acblunden2 said:
Yeap, got professionals ready to repair the WII chassis. Just need the flyback. As for group buy thing, just a suggestion for us in the US to work together to source them is all. No one was being volunteered. More info on the width cap used on your chassis once you post those pics.

Question: have you tried 31khz on the chassis with the replacement FB yet?
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Not personally as I don't have any 31k games at hand. My Type X2 & Naomi are still boxed up after moving house but it is known to work.

Image of flyback. This is the only writing on it as far as I can see.

  1. 0.jpg
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@yosai, are we going to get an announcement anytime soon on identification of the suitable replacement flybacks for the Windy II/Toshiba PB7534-1 flybacks?
 
No. That is the only marking on the flyback. No idea where Grant sourced it from.
 
I spoke with Grant about the flybacks and he's not interested in selling them at this time. He has some limited stock for his own repairs (he runs a repair service) but when he approached his supplier about obtaining more and possibly selling them to us, they doubled the price on him.

He said if he's able to renegotiate a reasonable price with the supplier he might reconsider selling the flybacks on their own. If you have a PB7534 with a bad flyback I'd recommend sending your chassis out to him for repair.

I haven't received mine back yet, but Grant has been great to work with and was able to revive my chassis this week. Best way to reach him is on Arcade Otaku, username grantspain.
 
kuze said:
I spoke with Grant about the flybacks and he's not interested in selling them at this time. He has some limited stock for his own repairs (he runs a repair service) but when he approached his supplier about obtaining more and possibly selling them to us, they doubled the price on him.

He said if he's able to renegotiate a reasonable price with the supplier he might reconsider selling the flybacks on their own. If you have a PB7534 with a bad flyback I'd recommend sending your chassis out to him for repair.

I haven't received mine back yet, but Grant has been great to work with and was able to revive my chassis this week. Best way to reach him is on Arcade Otaku, username grantspain.
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Grant is an absolute legend! His DNA is on every one of my chassis (9).

He's also recapped every PSU in my cabs. Can't imagine the hobby without him (personally).
 
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Well, I pinged him on AO. Let's see what happens.
 
Hatsune Mike said:
Are you sure it's the flyback? Is there a crack in it? If not, it might be something more mundane, like the HOT having blown, or the B+ voltage being wrong. Having to measure and adjust B+ after a recap isn't uncommon, and Toshiba chassis have a reputation for blowing HOTs after having been recapped. If you get neck glow, that's a sign your flyback might have a chance, since it usually comes off of a secondary winding to get the ~6.3VAC.
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Hey @Hatsune Mike do you know of any workaround to prevent Tosh chassis from blowing HOTs after being recapped?

Grant replaced my HOT, flyback and most caps (those not already replaced by Sharp). It worked fine on his setup, but the HOT immediately shorted when I reinstalled the chassis on my Windy 2.

At first we thought maybe my tube/yoke had been swapped, but mine matches @'yosai''s and he's running his PB7534 chassis OK on the same tube/yoke.
 
Also, can you guys with PB7534 chassis snap a pic of your HOT for me? It's located at Q425 on the big heatsink across from the flyback.
 
@acblunden2 that's the same monitor chassis @rewrite gave me for windy. Was there any special connections for it to make it work or was it plug in play. I also have a rodo for it to make it trisync.

Are you using a jvs to jamma In that pic?
 
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