could just make cable adapters so no rewiring needed?
FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)
- Thread starter XeD
- Start date
For Sale
Does anyone know how to remove the feet from a Sega New Net City to get it through smaller doorways?
I've already got the legs off, but the feet are blocking my path. >_>
It's either the feet that must come off or the crown molding on the doorway....
I've already got the legs off, but the feet are blocking my path. >_>
It's either the feet that must come off or the crown molding on the doorway....
the feet on the bottom of the rails? Remove the rails and there should be some screws and a nut holding them in
Right, the feet that attach to the bottom of the rails that the legs slide into. That would mean undoing the CP/monitor wiring first in order to get the rails off though.
I removed one screw and a nut from another screw on the other side of the rail, but the feet themselves won't come off due to the screw that the nut was threaded on. So yeah I guess the rails would have to come off to properly remove them. What's excruciating is I'm only off by like a quarter of an inch without having to take them off.
Removing the first two inches or so of the crown molding door stop instead is mighty tempting.
Yeah as @radiantsvgun put it you could use any PSU so long as you build an adapter/harness so you don't have to rewire the cab.
A Happ PSU would probably be much more cost effective, unless you can find a deal on the RS one or some other arcade PSU.
You shouldnt have to remove the monitor cover to slide the rails out. Just remove the top metal piece on top of the rail with a security torx bit. Then remove all the screws holding the rail in place. This should allow you to slide the rail up and remove. Then you'll see the screws and nut hold the feet in place.Right, the feet that attach to the bottom of the rails that the legs slide into. That would mean undoing the CP/monitor wiring first in order to get the rails off though.
I removed one screw and a nut from another screw on the other side of the rail, but the feet themselves won't come off due to the screw that the nut was threaded on. So yeah I guess the rails would have to come off to properly remove them. What's excruciating is I'm only off by like a quarter of an inch without having to take them off.
Removing the first two inches or so of the crown molding door stop instead is mighty tempting.
Check this video on how to remove it. It shows a net city, but the process is exactly the same.
Thanks, I had already removed the rails/legs by sliding them off the top but was just having problems with the feet.You shouldnt have to remove the monitor cover to slide the rails out. Just remove the top metal piece on top of the rail with a security torx bit. Then remove all the screws holding the rail in place. This should allow you to slide the rail up and remove. Then you'll see the screws and nut hold the feet in place.Right, the feet that attach to the bottom of the rails that the legs slide into. That would mean undoing the CP/monitor wiring first in order to get the rails off though.I removed one screw and a nut from another screw on the other side of the rail, but the feet themselves won't come off due to the screw that the nut was threaded on. So yeah I guess the rails would have to come off to properly remove them. What's excruciating is I'm only off by like a quarter of an inch without having to take them off.
Removing the first two inches or so of the crown molding door stop instead is mighty tempting.
Check this video on how to remove it. It shows a net city, but the process is exactly the same.
Here's where I was at (1x nut removed and 1x screw removed). The other side was actually worse in terms of rust in there.
It was just rusted on there a bit, but since it wouldn't come loose easily I thought the screw had to be removed from the other side (behind the rail which the "legs" slide onto).
I pried it off of there and it came free, was able to get the cab to clear the doorway.
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
So I've been still going at scrubbing down this windy 2. Unfortunately you guys are going to have to pull that monitor to clean it.
This monitor fan was mega gross, I replaced it with a noctura fan from the guide:
Here is where I pulled the monitor, everything was black and brown- I used some scrubbing bubbles + simple green to get it out. I was able to get farther in the cabinet and clean as much as I could.
Heres how it looks so far. I am going to take a break from cleaning for a few days, as I've spent a lot of time each day since it came in. The marquees just need some multi-surface cleaner and it looks great.
This monitor fan was mega gross, I replaced it with a noctura fan from the guide:
Here is where I pulled the monitor, everything was black and brown- I used some scrubbing bubbles + simple green to get it out. I was able to get farther in the cabinet and clean as much as I could.
Heres how it looks so far. I am going to take a break from cleaning for a few days, as I've spent a lot of time each day since it came in. The marquees just need some multi-surface cleaner and it looks great.
If you pull the chassis first, it's an easy one man job to pull the tube. I just did this today and swapped 8bit's tube out for something less absolutely destroyed with burn-in.
And it's WAY easier to pull the chassis out the rear than contemplate pulling the tube at the same time. 100x easier at least. Otherwise you'd be trying to pull the tube while also pulling the chassis out the front with it, still attached, behind it. It would be a mess.
And it's WAY easier to pull the chassis out the rear than contemplate pulling the tube at the same time. 100x easier at least. Otherwise you'd be trying to pull the tube while also pulling the chassis out the front with it, still attached, behind it. It would be a mess.
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
Yeah, I had already removed the chassis and sent it out so it wasn’t too bad. You do need to be careful with the exposed neck, but really it’s just remove screws, lift and pull directly back. Getting it back in is actually more difficult, and it’s probably easier if you lay it on it’s back.
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
Sharper Image doesn't repair monitors, but they do sell tie organizers and massage chairs.
Seriously, Sharp Image Repair charged me $125 plus shipping to and from. That was a few years ago, so it may be more now. They will diagnose the issue for free and if they can't fix it will just charge shipping back.
Seriously, Sharp Image Repair charged me $125 plus shipping to and from. That was a few years ago, so it may be more now. They will diagnose the issue for free and if they can't fix it will just charge shipping back.
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
It depends on what they have to do and if they can fix it. I’ve heard horror stories about these chassis so hopefully it is fixable.
I pulled the maintenance hatch from my Windy and there was no fan installed, but after the monitor is fixed I'll add one.
Checked for neck glow and not getting any. Hopefully Sharp can fix both our chassis. I didn't pull the chassis yet but I'll definitely do it from the back. Checking it out from the maintenance hatch it looks pretty rough, hopefully it's salvageable.
Checked for neck glow and not getting any. Hopefully Sharp can fix both our chassis. I didn't pull the chassis yet but I'll definitely do it from the back. Checking it out from the maintenance hatch it looks pretty rough, hopefully it's salvageable.
My buddy finally gets back this week. So will check out the cabs and will finally get to take my Egret II home by next weekend.
A few of things for me to follow-up on now that my friend is back:
Windy City II
A few of things for me to follow-up on now that my friend is back:
Windy City II
- See if positioning the jumpers to 2L12B allows it to recognize the NAOMI
- If not, need to look into repairs of the I/O
- Tearing down and cleaning the sucker
- That thing stinks something awful
- Pull the chassis and look for the part number for the HOT, report that back here
- Buy the cap kit for the Windy City II
- Pull the PSU and look to recap it
- If after the recap, it still doesn't work right, it will be replaced permanently with a Peter Chou
- 2-man jobbing the rotate mech, make sure it is all clear
- Do some tiny convergence calibrations with the TPG
- Will hit the yellow spots with Citristrip this time around
- Goof Off and paint thinner didn't do a thing to it
- Look into repainting the whole thing when the weather is better
- Tear it down and clean the sucker
- Time to buy Simple Green by the bucket load
- Repro the side art with my buddy's printer that can do metallic ink
- I asked Hatsune Mike if he can critique the side art once it gets printed and he can provide feedback then
- Maybe let Birdman chime in as well here
- Look into repro'ing the Egret II illuminated panel
Will the swap retain tri-sync functionality?
Depends which chassis he pairs with it. Could go either way. Sanwa 29e31s means 31k only, Rodotron means he keeps tri-sync. Up to him, I just offered the tube since it was kicking around anyway.
Hedonism Bot 2.0
Grand Master
@acblunden2 get a mask. I have been cleaning that cabinet since Thursday; and when you start cutting through all that grime, mold, mildew, and cig smoke, the caked in smell comes out with a vengeance.
I wasn't part of the group buy but I've been dealing with a pair of Windy IIs for years. Basically the chassis are total pricks to deal with, no one wants to repair them. I'm out about 600 trying to get the originals repaired before I just sent them to Jomac for parts, basically the arcade operator who said he could do it just took my money, tried a few times and then started ducking my calls.
In the the end I replaced them with Nanao 2934s and just lived with 31khz only.
In the the end I replaced them with Nanao 2934s and just lived with 31khz only.