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Lifted the hood on the E2 today to remove the CP. Didn't see any mold on the rotation mech wood and it appears to be in good shape. Don't know if I mentioned before but the wooden back door on my E2 had mold, but it wasn't nearly as bad as the mounting board. I cleaned it thoroughly with mold killer and let it sit out in the sun for a day before reinstalling on the cab.

When I lifted the hood the fluorescent bulb dropped down behind and against the tube so I had to fish it out from behind there stuck in the rotation mech frame.

Anyone have a link to a working replacement bulb? Does it need a starter too?

If anyone is curious, the allen wrench size needed to remove the CP is a 7/32. I was surprised none of my metric hex sizes fit.

After moving the E2 into the game room, the monitor no longer makes any weird sounds so that's great! I suspect the loose fluorescent bulb may have caused it to act up before.

Found about twenty or so "AMUSE 21" tokens between the Windy and E2 so far. Tried a token on Ketsui and realized the directional controls are wrong, will have to take a look at the wiring. They seem to have been hacked/patched at some point.
 
20w, 580mm, T8 diameter. Can pick them up at Home Depot.

It uses a starter. Yours may still be good, won't know until you get the new bulb.
 
I wasn't part of the group buy but I've been dealing with a pair of Windy IIs for years. Basically the chassis are total pricks to deal with, no one wants to repair them. I'm out about 600 trying to get the originals repaired before I just sent them to Jomac for parts, basically the arcade operator who said he could do it just took my money, tried a few times and then started ducking my calls.

In the the end I replaced them with Nanao 2934s and just lived with 31khz only.
Were these just a drop in?
 
Were these just a drop in?
Physically, yes (I have 3 in my storage, alongside 8bit's Windy). Take the tube and chassis off of the frame, drop in.

Have to change some connectors around for it to work though.
 
Will the swap retain tri-sync functionality?
Depends which chassis he pairs with it. Could go either way. Sanwa 29e31s means 31k only, Rodotron means he keeps tri-sync. Up to him, I just offered the tube since it was kicking around anyway.
ya depends what im going to do. Im buying rodo66a chassis but I also bought a capkit for the 29e31s and had it sent to rewrite. Anyone swapping tubes I recommend a jammafier. Im going to try both chassis and see how the quality is. Only thing is we cant proceed on the windy2 till the psu is fixed. I wish i was in LA to help rewrite with all this hes a real champ.
btw i think i have a problem lol im already thinking of what 2 cabs to get next. impress/ac/nac/aero cant decide. q25 would be at the top of my choice but i well probably never see one ever.
 
I'm 99% sure you can use an MS9-29 chassis on an E31s tube/yoke combination. If you primarily will be playing JAMMA boards, that may be a good option. I do not have a lot of good things to say about the Rodotron 666A / Wei-Ya / Whatever Makvision tried to call it / etc.
 
I'm 99% sure you can use an MS9-29 chassis on an E31s tube/yoke combination. If you primarily will be playing JAMMA boards, that may be a good option. I do not have a lot of good things to say about the Rodotron 666A / Wei-Ya / Whatever Makvision tried to call it / etc.
ya i heard stuff also. Sharp image is repairing it and sending it out. I would like to keep the windy jvs also. I well think about a ms9-29 if i can find one. Doesnt hurt to have options.
 
I'm 99% sure you can use an MS9-29 chassis on an E31s tube/yoke combination. If you primarily will be playing JAMMA boards, that may be a good option. I do not have a lot of good things to say about the Rodotron 666A / Wei-Ya / Whatever Makvision tried to call it / etc.
I'd give that a try then if it were me.

No personal experience with Rodotron 666A / Wei-Ya here, but grantspain on AO said they're easy to repair at least.
 
Were these just a drop in?
Physically, yes (I have 3 in my storage, alongside 8bit's Windy). Take the tube and chassis off of the frame, drop in.
Have to change some connectors around for it to work though.
I took a gamble on a Net city chassis, which is supposed to be 15/24/31 auto like the blast. When it gets here I'll give it a try.
 
basically the arcade operator who said he could do it just took my money, tried a few times and then started ducking my calls.
What's the guy's name so we can avoid him?
Don't think he operates anymore, just a small guy here in Australia.
I wasn't part of the group buy but I've been dealing with a pair of Windy IIs for years. Basically the chassis are total pricks to deal with, no one wants to repair them. I'm out about 600 trying to get the originals repaired before I just sent them to Jomac for parts, basically the arcade operator who said he could do it just took my money, tried a few times and then started ducking my calls.

In the the end I replaced them with Nanao 2934s and just lived with 31khz only.
Were these just a drop in?
Yep, just had to change a couple of connectors. Problem is the anode cable is shorter than the stock Windy chassis so I've still gotta figure out how to secure it properly.
 
@Thamiel Thanks a lot, hope the chassis is fixable but good to know there are options if it isn't. What is the best way to contact Jomac, I want to ask him a few questions about this chassis.
 
@Thamiel Thanks a lot, hope the chassis is fixable but good to know there are options if it isn't. What is the best way to contact Jomac, I want to ask him a few questions about this chassis.
Think there's a phone number on the website, calling is usually the best bet. He dosnt repair these though, too much of a headache for him.
 
Here's the good news out of that broken translite:
49822912_358255121396721_3653702556716105728_n.jpg

49658081_1241905809289875_7896954666901045248_n.jpg

49661494_358773708253607_8403474698582622208_n.jpg

Hoping this brings us one step closer to making replacements.
 
Here's the good news out of that broken translite:
Unfortunately, I got the cab with the broken translite. So I sacrificed it to the greater good. I hope all us E2 owners can benefit from this! :thumbsup:

Major thanks to Cereth for his work last night!
 
@Thamiel Thanks a lot, hope the chassis is fixable but good to know there are options if it isn't. What is the best way to contact Jomac, I want to ask him a few questions about this chassis.
Think there's a phone number on the website, calling is usually the best bet. He dosnt repair these though, too much of a headache for him.
He doesn't take emails from outside AUS, dang. Back to square one.

One of the AO users told me to check the grounds, as that is one of the causes for the toshiba to go into protection mode. I did find where the ground was cut when the transformer was removed. I used some shrink tubing and my nublet solder skills to reconnect it. Until sharp repairs the chassis, I have been thinking of putting the sanwa PFX in for the time being. However, since the tube is semi flat and the PFX is fully flat, won't there be a gap in the bezel?

Edit: other than the monitor, the last thing to do is pull the psu and change the fan. It makes a grinding noise on startup, I assume its at the end of its life. If I can get it out, I'll also see about making a cap list.

https://imgur.com/a/iPAQT3U
 
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yes there would. I am envious of your pfx. I didn't have the money at the time the guy was selling all his. I would kill for one.
 
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