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FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

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Well, I pinged him on AO. Let's see what happens.
 
Hatsune Mike said:
Are you sure it's the flyback? Is there a crack in it? If not, it might be something more mundane, like the HOT having blown, or the B+ voltage being wrong. Having to measure and adjust B+ after a recap isn't uncommon, and Toshiba chassis have a reputation for blowing HOTs after having been recapped. If you get neck glow, that's a sign your flyback might have a chance, since it usually comes off of a secondary winding to get the ~6.3VAC.
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Hey @Hatsune Mike do you know of any workaround to prevent Tosh chassis from blowing HOTs after being recapped?

Grant replaced my HOT, flyback and most caps (those not already replaced by Sharp). It worked fine on his setup, but the HOT immediately shorted when I reinstalled the chassis on my Windy 2.

At first we thought maybe my tube/yoke had been swapped, but mine matches @'yosai''s and he's running his PB7534 chassis OK on the same tube/yoke.
 
Also, can you guys with PB7534 chassis snap a pic of your HOT for me? It's located at Q425 on the big heatsink across from the flyback.
 
kuze said:
Also, can you guys with PB7534 chassis snap a pic of your HOT for me? It's located at Q425 on the big heatsink across from the flyback.
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maybe something got damaged in transit back to you
 
Some life finally breathed back into the Windy II courtesty of a Sanwa 29E31S chassis. Not perfect, but better than nothing.
WindyII_Alive.jpg
 
@acblunden2 that's the same monitor chassis @rewrite gave me for windy. Was there any special connections for it to make it work or was it plug in play. I also have a rodo for it to make it trisync.

Are you using a jvs to jamma In that pic?
 
It's a MAME PC. It can't take separate H/V sync. So watch out for that. Yoke swap was needed. The AC connector on the chassis is the same that is in the Windy. I found the yoke cables are far too short on the 29E31S so right now it is sitting on a family size cereal box in the cab. Will buy stand-offs later. I don't want to cut the yoke cables and solder on extra length. My 29E31S came off a flat screen monitor, so the geometry isn't correct in the corners. I see some pots on the yoke, but have no idea what they do so I am iffy about touching them to adjust for the "clover-leafing" effect that I see in the corners. Right now, it is mickey-moused in. Will likely reterminate the video connection on it to JST so I can plug it right into the Windy. Demag isn't connected as I don't have the right connection. Will build an adapter.

Hesitant to spend more dough since might send the WindyII chassis off to Grant. That's what I can think of off the top of my head.
 
acblunden2 said:
It's a MAME PC. It can't take separate H/V sync. So watch out for that. Yoke swap was needed. The AC connector on the chassis is the same that is in the Windy. I found the yoke cables are far too short on the 29E31S so right now it is sitting on a family size cereal box in the cab. Will buy stand-offs later. I don't want to cut the yoke cables and solder on extra length. My 29E31S came off a flat screen monitor, so the geometry isn't correct in the corners. I see some pots on the yoke, but have no idea what they do so I am iffy about touching them to adjust for the "clover-leafing" effect that I see in the corners. Right now, it is mickey-moused in. Will likely reterminate the video connection on it to JST so I can plug it right into the Windy. Demag isn't connected as I don't have the right connection. Will build an adapter.

Hesitant to spend more dough since might send the WindyII chassis off to Grant. That's what I can think of off the top of my head.
Click to expand...
so I basically just need to find a family size cereal box since my sanwa CRT came with that chassis. Ok good I was affraid.
 
Anyone got a tip on removing the screw holding the HOT down to the heatsink?

I've tried a whole bunch of screwdrivers without any luck and I'm almost to the point of busting out the dremel.

It's particularly difficult because nearby components make it hard to get at the screw from the best possible angle.
 
If you can fit a screw driver in the the bigger than handle on end will give you more torq
 
Well, I replaced the HOT and it still didn't work - chassis made similar sounds to before then the HOT blew (with sparks) after about ten seconds or so. ;(

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6JfiOZUz4E

At this point I think I will likely give up on using the original chassis with this monitor and switch gears to fixing the rather minor issues I had with the MS293x on the Windy 2 tube/yoke.

I'll be interested to hear how it goes for any of you that sent your PB7534 chassis to Grant when you get them back.
 
@acblunden2 - He said he could do the repair, but he wanted to wait until @yosai 's chassis was working for 4 months. He wanted to be 100% sure the repair worked because I was an overseas customer (hes in the UK). Repair was to cost 170 euros (shipping not included of course). However, I wouldn't hold him to that price given his situation with his supplier.

The supplier has increased his prices according to Grant, hes found a new supplier, but he needs to test the flybacks from them first. He's considered getting them re-manufactured, but overall he's concerned if re-manufacturing a large quantity would offset the cost of creating it. (we didn't discuss any numbers)

I told him I'd touch base with him in 2 months.
 
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