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Home Arcade System

RGB said:
HAS outputs the video in RGB+sync format via an 8pin mini DIN
Click to expand...
The output jack is wired for a xRGB mini, but you can make a cable to feed SCART or BNC (Sony PVM) as the format is RGBs.
This is the information about how the "RGB In" port is wired on the mini, easily searchable but I made a collection of nice color PDF documents. ;)

xRGB_mini.PNG
 
undead455 said:
How would I convert to ntsc (im in Canada)
Click to expand...
You can easily and inexpensively (40$~50$) change RGBs (SCART head) into component with one of these...
Scart-Converter_Fotor.jpg


It will still be 15khz video, so if that's a problem (it will likely only work on a CRT TV) this device won't help with that.
The quality is amazingly good for the price, and component color space is pretty accurate to RGBs.

I made this comparison shot a few years ago using my old Sony PVM 14L5 (it displayed both RGBs and Component) monitor.
RGBs%252BBNC4-vs-YPbPr%252BComponent.png


If you've upgraded to LCDs however, I would order a xRGB Mini to convert into HDMI.
Be prepared to spend a bit more, which shipping from Solaris Japan you can expect 375$~400$.

framemeister01.jpg
 
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I believe the only issue with using a JROK is the power levels.

JROK will be expecting levels directly from JAMMA, HAS should be providing levels equal to SCART (lower than JAMMA).

Lets wait for RGB to clear this up to be sure, but I'm 99.9% thats correct.
 
jassin000 said:
undead455 said:
How would I convert to ntsc (im in Canada)
Click to expand...
You can easily and inexpensively (40$~50$) change RGBs (SCART head) into component with one of these...Edit
Scart-Converter_Fotor.jpg


It will still be 15khz video, so if that's a problem (it will likely only work on a CRT TV) this device won't help with that.
The quality is amazingly good for the price, and component color space is pretty accurate to RGBs.

I made this comparison shot a few years ago using my old Sony PVM 14L5 (it displayed both RGBs and Component) monitor.
RGBs%252BBNC4-vs-YPbPr%252BComponent.png


If you've upgraded to LCDs however, I would order a xRGB Mini to convert into HDMI.
Be prepared to spend a bit more, which shipping from Solaris Japan you can expect 375$~400$.

framemeister01.jpg
Click to expand...
So I'd need a mini din to scart cable to hook them together correct?
 
stylecity said:
So I'd need a mini din to scart cable to hook them together correct?
Click to expand...
Or modify the device, I desoldered the SCART connector and even the RCA out jacks.
Replaced the SCART with a 8-pin mini-din, and replaced the RCAs with a single 15-pin Dsub.

This way I could use my VGA-to-BNC cable for the PVM.
It was much neater/cleaner/streamline looking than 4 RCA wires, each with its own RCA-to-BNC adapter head attached.
E-VGAF-5BNCM.png


I'll assume you are aware of my feeling on SCART already, hence the witty reply here.
No doubt it ruffled some feathers, I'm a pretty opinionated person and always have been.

I believe the time to move away from SCART is at hand, and I'd never let a opportunity to express this view pass by.
 
I know I am side stepping here, but could no resist to ask.

I just picked up a PVM-2950Q and need too source some cables, any suggestions? That BNC/15pin D-Sub looks to be something to get to give me some flexibility of use.
 
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jassin000 said:
You can easily and inexpensively (40$~50$) change RGBs (SCART head) into component with one of these...
Click to expand...
I have two of those converters too and swear by them. I messed around with lots of converters and none came close to the CVS287. The CVS287 is a clone of the well respected CYS-2100.


I added Audio in/out to mine like this:

It's the best sub-Framemeister converter available and it syncs with everything I've ever thrown at it.
 
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So this is what I'd need for "plug and play"? My soldering skills are still at the armature level so modifying the box my be disastrous.
Btw, I really appreciate all the help this forum has been. You guys are great
 

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stylecity said:
So this is what I'd need for "plug and play"? My soldering skills are still at the armature level so modifying the box my be disastrous.
Btw, I really appreciate all the help this forum has been. You guys are great
Click to expand...
Nope, but here's one that works.
 
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First of all - jassin000 ans SmokeMonster, thank you for valuable input :)
jassin000 said:
I believe the only issue with using a JROK is the power levels.

JROK will be expecting levels directly from JAMMA, HAS should be providing levels equal to SCART (lower than JAMMA).

Lets wait for RGB to clear this up to be sure, but I'm 99.9% thats correct.
Click to expand...
HAS uses simple potentiometers set to around 180-250ohm depending on the game. This along with the 75ohm termination resistors gives more or less accurate voltage levels for the TV/scaler/etc.

If JROK expects arcade level RGB, then you can simply leave the pots on HAS fully open (0hm).
 
stylecity said:
Awesome! Now I just gotta find someone who has it in stock.
Click to expand...
I think RCA re-lists everything once a week on Monday or Tuesday. You can also message her and she'll put up a private auction for you to buy things that aren't in stock. They're hand-made cables, and I couldn't find anyone else making mini DIN-8 to scart.

I accidentally linked to the JP21 scart cable in my last post, which is the wrong one. Here is the correct cable for most people's scart needs. Since the HAS has a dedicated stereo audio jack, you don't even need to worry about having an audio break-out on the cable or converter.
 
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