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SmokeMonster

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I was hoping that a recap would clear up some video noise on this System 11/Tekken 2 (Version B) board that I recently picked up. The recap didn't help, but afterwards I was adjusting the "video level" pot on the top board and realized that turning it up and turning down my scaler's brightness gave a really nice picture. (Update: I've also posted my Tekken Tag Tournament and Tekken 3 Restorations)

I was expecting this game to be crap based on the reviews that I read, but it's actually stellar. I've already tracked down Tekken 3, which is what I remember playing in the arcades. You can find Tekken 2 for pennies and I highly recommend it.

I recapped the System 11 board in no time with Rubycon, Panasonic, and Nichicons. I also replaced the thermal compound on the two heatsinks with Arctic Silver. I also replaced the original PCB battery with a replaceable cr2032, mounted horizontally.
_DSC2436_2.jpg

There are 6 more 100uF caps under the daughter boards.

_DSC2439_2.jpg

Recapping made no noticeable difference, but I'm happy to now have higher-rated 105C long-life caps surrounding the main heat sink.

20151002_225804_2.jpg

Crappy mobile shot of the title screen.
 
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SmokeMonster

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Wait. Someone said Tekken 2 was crap??? Must be some younger gamers that don't know shit about shit....
Yeah, and people seem to denigrate System 11 in general, as if being PS1 hardware is a bad thing. PS1 had decent horsepower and Tekken 2 sings on iti. By System 12 they were doing really amazing stuff with the platform.

If you want a Tekken 2 board, cnlmoore at KLOV is practically begging someone to buy his other board for $32/shipped. That's who I bought mine from--both of his are the updated Version B revision.
 

Mitsurugi-w

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I've had one in my collection since '99 but someone should get it if they don't already.
 

Coyo5050

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wheres the video level adjustment? Only thing i can see on my board that might be it is rv70
 

PascalP

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Did you keep a list of cap values?
After examinating my Tekken 2 board, it appears to be missing a few caps as well...
(Board work fine though...)
 

SmokeMonster

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I didn't record them, but I can tell you what any cap is if you shoot me a picture of the PCB with the missing caps.
 

PascalP

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Ok, will do!

Also one cap has the solder pad ripped off, so if you could check where that connects to so I can run a jumper wire?
 

PascalP

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Here are some pics, especially C2 and C18

https://imgur.com/a/Wfo3Y

I can tell the bigger ones are 100uF 6V right?
But what about the smaller ones? 10uF 16V?
 
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SmokeMonster

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Below is a map of your caps.

I think this is how you repair that trace. Could someone confirm this? I would use a multi-meter for you, but I'm in Brazil and my board is in the US.
PascalP_trace.jpg
Tekken2PascalP-2.jpg

 

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streetfighterken

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Wait. Someone said Tekken 2 was crap??? Must be some younger gamers that don't know shit about shit....
The Tekken series didn't really do anything for me until Tekken 3 which was a huge step forward and modern Tekken games are based on that game. IMO 3D fighting games don't age well at all and there's no reason to play past versions. :)
 

PascalP

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@SmokeMonster which ratings do you look for when ordering caps?

I did search for these specs;
- Nichicon, Panasonic or Rubycon
- Capacitance (e.g. 100uF)
- Temp 105C
- Radial through hole

I did check on RS components and a lot of caps have 1000hr lifetime and only a few have 5000hrs or more at 6x the price of the 1000hr ones?
Also I did find that series like Panasonic FR state 'not suitable for automotive'?
Any particular series you search for or avoid?
 
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SmokeMonster

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That's a perfect list. I look for all of those, plus Panasonic and Vishay/Sprague, Illinois Capacitor and Elna (only from Digikey, since 100% on eBay are fake).

Yes, long-life caps cost a lot more, but they're usually my preference. In reality, a cap rated at 1-2,000 hours is essentially immortal in a gaming console, since those hours are expectations at 105C I believe, and we aren't even half that most of the time.
 

PascalP

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I did check my bottom board, but caps look fine, gonna replace them anyway ;)

Only the reading on the 2 small ones in the audio section don't make sense (marked gray), they read 2.2 d35
So this would mean? 2.2uF and ??v
 

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