CPZ - SAVEYOURGAMES
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Maybe I have one
Troubleshooting Tips
- Thread starter Mitsurugi-w
- Start date
Bigsingerdawg
Professional
Guys I had a bent pin, tried to get it straight. Broke off. Am I totally effed? Trying to get it back in with pliers, assuming it doesn't just fit right in and won't work without this, right?
What should I do?
What should I do?
Bigsingerdawg
Professional
Exactly the same pin that broke on mine. If you know how to solder you can replace it yourself or you can talk tp @Mitsurugi-w and see if he can replace it for you.
Bigsingerdawg
Professional
The entire pin has to be removed and replaced. Shoot a pm to @Mitsurugi-w, he can assist you with replacing the pin. You will just have to send the board to him.
Bigsingerdawg
Professional
@Mitsurugi-w some local guy said he could just solder something from the point to the board, is that possible or a waste of time?
@DarthMig thanks for the info, nothing arcade wise has been a first round go for me. Blast city came from SD completely broken and still working with insurance to get compensated, been ghosted by a few people who said they'd help me with some things and now this looked so easy I figured I'd try myself and meh.
I do consider myself lucky I have an MVS1 set up on my blast and it's working now, so so so awesome.
@DarthMig thanks for the info, nothing arcade wise has been a first round go for me. Blast city came from SD completely broken and still working with insurance to get compensated, been ghosted by a few people who said they'd help me with some things and now this looked so easy I figured I'd try myself and meh.
I do consider myself lucky I have an MVS1 set up on my blast and it's working now, so so so awesome.
xodaraP
Legendary
It's a waste of time because it's not the proper way to fix it.
It's not difficult to replace the pin and in most cases if you can get it to Mitsurugi-W (assuming you're in the Americas) he'll do it for you or at the very least supply the pins if you're happy to do it yourself/find someone to do it for you
@Mitsurugi-w if you're in the Americas
@CPZ - SAVEYOURGAMES if you're in Europe/elsewhere
I can do it for you if you're in Australia/NZ
It's not difficult to replace the pin and in most cases if you can get it to Mitsurugi-W (assuming you're in the Americas) he'll do it for you or at the very least supply the pins if you're happy to do it yourself/find someone to do it for you
@Mitsurugi-w if you're in the Americas
@CPZ - SAVEYOURGAMES if you're in Europe/elsewhere
I can do it for you if you're in Australia/NZ
Bigsingerdawg
Professional
Hey team, @xodaraP @Mitsurugi-w @DarthMig
Drove an hour and a half last night and an absolute soldering legend was able to just wire the connection point to the back of the board and also solder the 4 wires that I didn't have for the new re-write firmware.
The kit is working amazing and home and in my cab.
Literally never been happier! @Darksoft you and Mitsu and team are doing amazing work, thanks for everything you're doing Saveyourgames.it also the best, much
.
A side note is my STV mobo for that multi said something about a configuration or something weird might be related to the JP mobo and bios but will post in the STV thread.
Happy ending confirmed! Thanks Mitsu for the PM and offering me to send me replacements, class acts all around. Sucks I can't solder but is what it is.
Drove an hour and a half last night and an absolute soldering legend was able to just wire the connection point to the back of the board and also solder the 4 wires that I didn't have for the new re-write firmware.
The kit is working amazing and home and in my cab.
Literally never been happier! @Darksoft you and Mitsu and team are doing amazing work, thanks for everything you're doing Saveyourgames.it also the best, much
.A side note is my STV mobo for that multi said something about a configuration or something weird might be related to the JP mobo and bios but will post in the STV thread.
Happy ending confirmed! Thanks Mitsu for the PM and offering me to send me replacements, class acts all around. Sucks I can't solder but is what it is.
Attachments
Flain
Enthusiast
Hi All, i finally got around to installing my kit and i just get a blank screen when i try to boot i have a few questions and i'll try to put as much info as i can
I have a 93646B-6 board, it had a D-pal chip in it, i noticed a chip the same size came with the darksoft kit - is that a G-pal chip? I put that in place of my old chip.
I used a multi meter while doing my jumpers to make sure i have them as SOOS SO OSOSOS SOSOSOSO SOSOSOSO from the pdf file
Then i followed the wiring instruction for the 4 wires for the key writing.
Then since it wasn't working i removed the battery and shorted EXC5 (i heard that it works with battery now so wasnt sure if that was needed)
When i give it a try i can select a game and it writes it, says writing key, then i see it reboots (screen flash then says "now playing" on LCD) but still just a black screen. Any tips on where to start troubleshooting?
I have a 93646B-6 board, it had a D-pal chip in it, i noticed a chip the same size came with the darksoft kit - is that a G-pal chip? I put that in place of my old chip.
I used a multi meter while doing my jumpers to make sure i have them as SOOS SO OSOSOS SOSOSOSO SOSOSOSO from the pdf file
Then i followed the wiring instruction for the 4 wires for the key writing.
Then since it wasn't working i removed the battery and shorted EXC5 (i heard that it works with battery now so wasnt sure if that was needed)
When i give it a try i can select a game and it writes it, says writing key, then i see it reboots (screen flash then says "now playing" on LCD) but still just a black screen. Any tips on where to start troubleshooting?
PascalP
Legendary
tip #1, post some pics of your install if you can, that will help tremendously
xodaraP
Legendary
Hi,
The G PAL chip would have come with the kit and replaces the D PAL yes. If you're getting a black screen it means it's not reading the main program ROMs. There's a couple of reasons this might happen
- Your A and B boards are not seated correctly
- Your multi kit interconnect board (the small one) is not seated correctly - I feel this is less likely given you are getting writing on the LCD screen
- Your multi kit is not seated correctly - as above less likely
- You replaced the incorrect IC with the new G PAL (there are 3 PALs on the board only one of which should be replaced)
- Your key writing wires have been put on in the wrong order
I would start with reseating the A and B boards, making sure you replaced the correct PAL and checking your key writing wires.
As @PascalP said, pictures help
The G PAL chip would have come with the kit and replaces the D PAL yes. If you're getting a black screen it means it's not reading the main program ROMs. There's a couple of reasons this might happen
- Your A and B boards are not seated correctly
- Your multi kit interconnect board (the small one) is not seated correctly - I feel this is less likely given you are getting writing on the LCD screen
- Your multi kit is not seated correctly - as above less likely
- You replaced the incorrect IC with the new G PAL (there are 3 PALs on the board only one of which should be replaced)
- Your key writing wires have been put on in the wrong order
I would start with reseating the A and B boards, making sure you replaced the correct PAL and checking your key writing wires.
As @PascalP said, pictures help
Flain
Enthusiast
Here is some pictures, maybe it is my bad soldering skills?
Here is the PAL chip (far right of pal chips)
Here is the PAL chip (far right of pal chips)
Flain
Enthusiast
I also tried re-seating A+B unfortunately not that easy 
I doublechecked the other boards and everything is in pretty firm, no bent pins. I struggled to solder the keywriting wires so maybe that is my problem?
I doublechecked the other boards and everything is in pretty firm, no bent pins. I struggled to solder the keywriting wires so maybe that is my problem?
xodaraP
Legendary
I see you're in Australia too. I can have a look at it if you can't get it going
For now, check that you haven't bridged something when you soldered the key writing wires and reseat the boards
For now, check that you haven't bridged something when you soldered the key writing wires and reseat the boards
Flain
Enthusiast
Thanks for the offer, i'll do some double checking on if i shorted anything i think thats probably the most likely place i made a mistake i'm not used to soldering
xodaraP
Legendary
That's the most likely problem I'd guess, don't beat yourself up though it actually looks pretty good. It's just there are some ICs really close to those pads and it's easy to cause a bridge
Particularly your purple wire
Particularly your purple wire
xodaraP
Legendary
Actually. I've just noticed you have it wired up wrong.
On rev 6 you should have
Pin 2 of CN9 (Pink) going to Data which is where your Red wire is now
Pin 3 of CN9 (Blue) should go to Setup1 on multi where your Purple wire is now
Pin 4 of CN9 (Purple) should go to Clock on multi which is where your Blue wire is now
Pin 5 of CN9 (Red) should go to Setup2 where your pink wire is connected currently
If I had to hazard a guess I'd say you put the wires in the connector backwards
On rev 6 you should have
Pin 2 of CN9 (Pink) going to Data which is where your Red wire is now
Pin 3 of CN9 (Blue) should go to Setup1 on multi where your Purple wire is now
Pin 4 of CN9 (Purple) should go to Clock on multi which is where your Blue wire is now
Pin 5 of CN9 (Red) should go to Setup2 where your pink wire is connected currently
If I had to hazard a guess I'd say you put the wires in the connector backwards
PascalP
Legendary
Backwards indeedActually. I've just noticed you have it wired up wrong.
On rev 6 you should have
Pin 2 of CN9 (Pink) going to Data which is where your Red wire is now
Pin 3 of CN9 (Blue) should go to Setup1 on multi where your Purple wire is now
Pin 4 of CN9 (Purple) should go to Clock on multi which is where your Blue wire is now
Pin 5 of CN9 (Red) should go to Setup2 where your pink wire is connected currently
If I had to hazard a guess I'd say you put the wires in the connector backwards