I pressed tab and esc and return and space bar..all the usual suspects. Nothing.
- Thread starter chunksin
- Start date
GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
That's too bad.
I have zipped up my GroovyMAME D drive and am sharing it on google drive.
You can find the file here: D.zip
I believe that's where most of the magic happens. I'm pretty sure you could use what's there to get 15khz working.
"D\Installers and Instructions\CRT EmuDriver\Instructions" should be interesting.
I omitted the MAME folder because it's large.
Fifth time is a charm. After downloading V3 for the fifth time, I was able to get that image to restore and it allowed me to power through the region settings screen. It was weird in that it was in a slow mo, sluggish like..but I was able to click next and get to the main screen. I'm now at the update drivers portion of the install. Any tips on how to get all of that squared away without internet access? If now, going to hardwire in, grab Opera and see how many of those yellow triangle things I can chip away with.
Thank you for the V3 image, @chunksin. With a little patience, minor assistance and some know-how, I think I can pull this off.
Thank you for the V3 image, @chunksin. With a little patience, minor assistance and some know-how, I think I can pull this off.
I would grab the Intel drivers from the Dell website, USB3 and chipset drivers plus the management engine, might as well grab the latest BIOS if you need it too. Copy them to a USB stick and transfer that way. I build all of mine offline just in case! If you are left with any stubborn warning icons, google the hardware ID found in the device properties and that will tell you what it is.
So...I got all the way to the end. I've been using a Samsung SyncMaster 943 LCD/LED display. Doing this, I was able to get all the way into the shell installer where it has the empty MAME look on the screen. From there, I reconfigured it to get back to Windows since I think I'm going to be using Launchbox/Bigbox was my front end. I followed the guide and everything went well enough to get that far..but I am curious - since I did all of this on the LCD/LED screen, is there a definitive way (in text form or otherwise) that lets me know I did everything correctly and the computer is now capable of sending a 15hz signal to an arcade monitor? Lastly, is there a value in adding ATOM-15 after the fact? I'd like to make sure I don't fry my arcade monitor when I get everything set up but I still need to order a J-Pac or something equivalent so I'm not going to be hooking the rig up to the cab for a bit anyways. Can I continue to tinker and refine and make sure everything checks out okay using the monitor I have been?
Thank you again for your help but mostly for your patience. Very kind.
GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
I'm glad you got through it.
You should know that even with atom-15 there is a non 15khz signal sent during part of the boot sequence. For several seconds you get the typical fast rolling out of sync image. At least that's my experience.
What makes you believe your monitor will fry? Are they THAT sensitive?
Thank you for all your support and assistance with this George. Even just the back and forth was helping me not throw in the towel. The option of downloading from the link you provided was a very kind "last gasp" gesture. Glad I was able to get through everything as well.
I've read things about how dangerous is it for the monitors in the cab to get non-15hz signals and how they can be destroyed, etc. Impossible to know the validity but obviously that's a 500 dollar reinvestment I'd like to avoid. I'm trying to be extra careful at this point. Dot my t's and cross my i's and whatnot. I have parts to order and figure out the configuration before I even connect PC to monitor...not in a rush. Just trying to be thorough, I suppose.
GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
No problem.
My point is that I don't think it's possible with this setup to never have a non-15khz signal sent to the monitor.
I did the atom-15 drivers and the POST is 15khz but once Windows starts to load it switches to another resolution and the screen goes funny until the drivers kick in. I'm not sure this is avoidable.
It has not hurt my TV as far as I can tell but maybe consumer TVs have some type of protection that a monitor would not.
Do you think the ATOM-15 driver setup is essential then? And can that be done correctly AFTER doing the setup I've already done?
GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
I think it might not matter for what you desire - no non-15khz signal ever going to monitor.
You can definitely set it up after the image is installed. That's when I did it. It's actually a firmware, so I was wrong to call it a driver.
Be sure to backup the original firmware somewhere; just in case.
Maybe someone else can chime in with their experience about the boot process at atom-15 is installed.
As to the other thing..are you pro-Jpac or pro-JAMMASd or what at this point..where should I spend my money?
GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
I was thinking you might want to get a cheap oscilloscope and verify signal that way before connecting your monitor.
Retrorgb recommended one earlier this year that was about $30. I bought it but haven't used it yet.
I don't know enough about jammasd to comment on it. I have a j-pac and it's very easy to use. I was pleasantly surprised.
I don't run sound through it. I think we discussed that a little earlier in the thread though.
Yes, amps were mentioned. Will the J-Pac/amp setup be easy enough for me to dabble with two-player brook board setups? I assume much of the J-Pac and JammaSD focus is on connection points. How much of those points allow for two player functionality?
GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
I'm not sure I understand the question.
You want to use a Brook product in conjunction with the J-PAC?
Are you talking about the UFB?
I think you would use the Brook instead of the J-PAC (for controls) in that instance.
Control Panel -> Brook -> PC
I guess you could put the Brook in with the J-PAC but it seems like an extra step; unless the J-PAC allows you to manage something that the Brook does not.
I don't know a lot about Brook adapters. My understanding is that they are a low-latency controller interface. I think the J-PAC already provides that functionality.
You want to use a Brook product in conjunction with the J-PAC?
Are you talking about the UFB?
I think you would use the Brook instead of the J-PAC (for controls) in that instance.
Control Panel -> Brook -> PC
I guess you could put the Brook in with the J-PAC but it seems like an extra step; unless the J-PAC allows you to manage something that the Brook does not.
I don't know a lot about Brook adapters. My understanding is that they are a low-latency controller interface. I think the J-PAC already provides that functionality.
I thought I would be using the J-Pac to get the video signal?
GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
J-PAC can accommodate just about everything on the JAMMA edge. Idk what it can't do.
It will handle the controls just fine. I run my controls through the J-PAC and I'm very happy with it.
Currently looking at pics of the amp soldering job MickyMac did on his J-Pac. Unless good news comes back on the new Jamma device being discussed, I think I might go that route.
GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
I think it likely checks all of the boxes. Considering I'm doing the Launchbox PC build and I know I want Brook boards, I'm just hoping that the compatibility with J-Pac is there for the entire build and also that getting everything connected correctly isn't a bridge too far for me. But the more I look at it and read about it, the more I think it could be the solution.
As long as you choose the correct monitor type in vmmaker.exe, either Generic 15Khz or Arcade 15Khz (recommended) and generate and install the modelines, as soon as you enable the EDID emulation it will switch to 15Khz only - as has been mentioned this doesn't cover the boot process, I always patch the graphics card with atom-15 just in case.
