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In this thread we tube and yoke swap monitors

Zeroh said:
I found uncletom's experiments a bit confusing... He placed the convergence rings on tubes that don't need them?
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The Philips tube has a yoke that has a built in ring set on it. It's a 2 in 1 unit. If you're going to put any other yoke on it that normally has a separate ring set you will have to include too.

You can try it without one. It's going to look wonky as hell.

Zeroh said:
Problem is that this Philips TV produces a great image, and I'm sure that if I remove the yoke I won't be able to set it as good as before.
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There's like zero adjustments done with Philips yokes. You literally place it on and make sure it's correctly oriented (as opposed to rotated). Check the first two posts in this thread. Just be careful when removing the yoke. I've heard that the windings can come off.

Zeroh said:
I can point you to an old thread on a Forum: Neo-Arcadia
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The Philips isn't a perfect match with the 293X. The mounting ears are at the wrong depth and the curvature isn't quite the same. Again, if I had no tube, then yeah, it's worth trying. Otherwise no.

Sony I wouldn't even bother with.

Daewoo, no idea.

The Shanghai Novel tubes in 29e31s are indeed the correct curvature. You will only find one in an arcade cab though. 29e31s is also 31khz only, so again something you would have to yoke swap or put a Wei-Ya chassis on. Be advised though, they are extremely poor tubes. I have 3 that have either dead or dying electron guns.
 
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nem said:
The Philips tube has a yoke that has a built in ring set on it. It's a 2 in 1 unit. If you're going to put any other yoke on it that normally has a separate ring set you will have to include too.
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Really? But then what about the Videocolor tubes?

nem said:
The Philips isn't a perfect match with the 293X. The mounting ears are at the wrong depth and the curvature isn't quite the same. Again, if I had no tube, then yeah, it's worth trying. Otherwise no.
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I think there are photos in that thread. Curvature should be the same, or at least from the photos I saw sometime ago it fits, but mounting need to be "creatively adjusted".
Daewoo possibly uses same tube?

Other than that Philips tube, the only ones that fit should be the toshiba tubes (A68KZN696) mounted in PANASONIC DT-2930MS,GRUNDIG M72-795 TOP,GRUNDIG M72- 105 IDTV,GRUNDIG ST72-760 + 762 TOP,GRUNDIG M72-760 TOP, BLAUPUNKT IS-72 55,GRUNDIG M72- 105 IDTV,GRUNDIG ST72-160 IDTV and TOSHIBA2929D (A68KLF96X02).
Good luck finding those...
 
I though Videocolor tubes were like the Philips, i.e. pre-set at factory and I thought this was done internally to the tube.
But after a quick search it seems it's a single non serviceable ring under a yellow tape.
So once you remove that the tube becomes like any other plain tube?
 
MudGuts83 said:
Ok, Finally got around to removing the back case to see what I've got inside the RCA 19" F19421 crt I picked up a few weekends ago.

Hmm.. the internet identifies the A48LGS30X03 tube as a CR-31 8 pin with a H at 2.9 ohms and a V at 12.8 ohms.

I don't see this tube number listed on noted incomplete inventory. Should I continue on with the search for a WG 19" K7000 compatible crt?
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nem said:
There are thousands of tubes, the inventory will only have a small percentage of them.

I suspect your tube is fine (odds are definitely in your favor). Someone who has tube swapped 19" K7000 could probably confirm. @RealMFnG?
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Tube swapping is not a science or an art. It is dumb luck. Even if someone lists a TV that works, your chances of finding that exact TV in the local ads is next to impossible. You just have to be persistent and put in the work.

When it comes to the WG 19K700, I find as long as the tube has the proper neck pins (CR31) and neck diameter, it works just fine. The only problem you'll find with K7000 swaps beyond neck compatiblity is image width. But that is easily remedied by replacing C38. If the image is too wide, lower cap value. If the image is too narrow, higher cap value. Just buy an assortment of caps until you get the one that works for your tube. There is a kit on arcadepartsandrepair.com, but you are better off ordering from Mouser or Digikey with your next parts order. All C38 caps have to be Metalized Polyester Film with minimum 250VDC in these capacitance values: .10uf, .15uf, .22uf, .27uf, .33uf, .39uf, .47uf, and .56uf.
 
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I just found a TV and the tube is a perfect fit curvature-wise for the MS8/9. The only problem.......it looks like it is a Phillips tube (faded label on the tube). There are no convergence rings on the tube. Metered readings out on the yoke with the BSide Pro:
  • Brown/White = 6.7 ohms/17.2 mH
  • Red/Blue = 2.1 ohms/1.21 mH
The MS9 yoke is:
  • Brown/White = 6.8 ohms/14.3 mH
  • Red/Blue = 0.6 ohms/0.31 mH
So vertical is within 83%, but horizontal spec is at 26% of the MS9. I need to re-terminate the connectors to do some experimenting. And if that doesn't work, I'll test out the "Phillips tubes only work with Phillips yokes" legend to confirm it once and for all.

What do you think @nem, fellas.....will the MS9 chassis work with this Phillips tube's native yoke? Shall we take bets on the under/over?
 
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Horizontal is way off. Won't work.

I think the Philips tubes only work with Philips yokes legend is busted. They will work with other yokes, but will the resulting convergence be up to your standards, that's a different matter entirely.
 
I am thinking it won't work either.

Still though, I just want to see what is up. I have the MS9 yoke and C-rings here ready to go if it fails. I have some throw away .062 and .093 Molex pins. I suppose i can just give this a whack to see what happens without proper yoke connectors. Just some snug bare pins, and hope for bold stroke of luck.
 
/following
IMG_6264.jpg
 
I've got some leads on a bunch of possible tubes. Anyone know anything about the following and if they'll fit well in an Astro city cab?

RCA F27252GY
A68ADT271
A68ADT27X01R

Magnavox 27MT3305/17
A68AJB82X11

Sharp 27N S300
VB68ADT2506\*S

Magnavox 27TS73
A68AJB82X11
Emerson EWF2703
M68LQK125X
A68QCP893X
A68QDL280X051(C)
A68QCU759X


I'm assuming that all of them would need a yoke swap and possibly some heater resistor modifications, but I haven't been able to find much about people successfully using any of these (or even attempting them)

Upon looking at this a bit I can see that the formatting doesn't show up well. I've added brands to the model numbers that the tubes are from to make it more clear.
 
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Damnit, that tube is too flat for even an MS293x, let alone and MS8/9. It had an M-class Orion tube in a Toshiba TV. I've seen this before in Toshiba's. I have yet to see an M-class tube's curve work for either an MS8/9 or MS293x. Hoping I do someday though: M-class > A-class (supposedly). For now, scratch off the donor candidate list the following:
  • Mfg: Toshiba
  • Model#: 27A44
  • Tube Make: Orion
  • Tube#: M68LWF088X50
 
RealMFnG said:
Damnit, that tube is too flat for even an MS293x, let alone and MS8/9. It had an M-class Orion tube in a Toshiba TV. I've seen this before in Toshiba's. I have yet to see an M-class tube's curve work for either an MS8/9 or MS293x. Hoping I do someday though: M-class > A-class (supposedly). For now, scratch off the donor candidate list the following:
  • Mfg: Toshiba
  • Model#: 27A44
  • Tube Make: Orion
  • Tube#: M68LWF088X50
Click to expand...
From that angle it does look semi-curved though not like a TrueFlat that a Net City would use. Good luck in your continued search!
 
ebzero89 said:
From that angle it does look semi-curved though not like a TrueFlat that a Net City would use. Good luck in your continued search!
Click to expand...

Just goes to show, eyeballing these is pretty tough. Sometimes the curve of the TV casing throws you off. The MS8/9 compatible Phillips tube I picked up, I thought upon seeing it, "No way is this going to be curved enough for an MS8/9." But sure enough, I was wrong.

All those tubes you listed, you just are going to have to put in the sweat to first figure out if the curve is correct for your needs. Bring your cab's bezel with you and the frame so you can fasten the tube to the frame and lay it so the screen is facing upwards. Lay the bezel across the screen. If you see even a hint of light bleed between the screen and bezel, move on. In lieu of the frame, you can also use a sturdy milk crate. Drop the tube into the milk crate with the neck pointing down. The milk crate's sturdy walls prevent the neck from getting crushed. Then do the same: lay bezel across the screen, if you see a hint of light bleed, move on.
 
RealMFnG said:
Damnit, that tube is too flat for even an MS293x, let alone and MS8/9. It had an M-class Orion tube in a Toshiba TV. I've seen this before in Toshiba's. I have yet to see an M-class tube's curve work for either an MS8/9 or MS293x. Hoping I do someday though: M-class > A-class (supposedly). For now, scratch off the donor candidate list the following:
  • Mfg: Toshiba
  • Model#: 27A44
  • Tube Make: Orion
  • Tube#: M68LWF088X50
Click to expand...
FWIW thats the tube I used for my Blast swap.

Most Toshiba tubes in the USA have Orion tubes in them, and they have a different curvature. If you find a full curve Toshiba set and it has an orion tube, it will not fit.

https://alt.tv.tech.hdtv.narkive.com/aERW2A1P/all-toshiba-crt-tube-televisions-are-now-made-by-orion

You have to rear mount and offset it to fit too. This will not fit properly in the Windy 2, since the bezel is form fitted for an exact curvature.

That tube has great colors but very soft scanlines.
 
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RealMFnG said:
Just goes to show, eyeballing these is pretty tough. Sometimes the curve of the TV casing throws you off. The MS8/9 compatible Phillips tube I picked up, I thought upon seeing it, "No way is this going to be curved enough for an MS8/9." But sure enough, I was wrong.

All those tubes you listed, you just are going to have to put in the sweat to first figure out if the curve is correct for your needs. Bring your cab's bezel with you and the frame so you can fasten the tube to the frame and lay it so the screen is facing upwards. Lay the bezel across the screen. If you see even a hint of light bleed between the screen and bezel, move on. In lieu of the frame, you can also use a sturdy milk crate. Drop the tube into the milk crate with the neck pointing down. The milk crate's sturdy walls prevent the neck from getting crushed. Then do the same: lay bezel across the screen, if you see a hint of light bleed, move on.
Click to expand...
They're all yet to be shucked TVs, so I'm not sure I'll be able to check with the bezel, so it's basically a gambling game. Plus the dude wants an incredible amount of money for some of those (like 130 dollars) which is just not going to happen for some of them (unless someone had knowledge that it was a dead ringer). I'll probably pick up the cheaper ones in the bunch and check, if they do fit great, if the don't I'll try to RGB mod and flip them I guess.
 
Hedonism Bot 2.0 said:
FWIW thats the tube I used for my Blast swap.
Click to expand...

I dunno how you got that tube to fit with the Blast's curve. Here I have the Net City's bezel laying right across it, and I got plenty of light bleed between bezle and screen. Any gaps in your installation?

BlastCandidate.jpg

Of course, the same tube is even more pronouned with the New Astro City Bezel:

MS8Candidate.jpg

Anyhow, I scored a few tubes that curvature-wise are a perfect fit for the Blast already. Looking for MS9 compatible donors.
 
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