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DARKSOFT What Donor Board to use for the CPS1 Multi

djsheep said:
It really feels like Groundhog Day around here sometimes.
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A simple answer would have sufficed, or don't reply at all if you had nothing polite to add. I'm not sitting on this forum all day, every day. I'm sure one of your other threads said 'at this stage' the multi doesn't support long boards, I just wanted to clarify if this was the final decision. It sounds like it is after I see this thread has been updated.
 
Please everyone calm down or we'll delete posts as needed. In this world, nothing is final until it's released :thumbsup:
But honestly adding support to long PCBs seems to be too much effort right now.
 
Darksoft said:
Please everyone calm down or we'll delete posts as needed. In this world, nothing is final until it's released :thumbsup:
But honestly adding support to long PCBs seems to be too much effort right now.
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All good, appreciate your hard work on this project. I will start looking for a short board
 
twistedsymphony said:
If you come across any photos of the other side of the PCB please let me know.
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90630c-4_back.jpg 90630c-4_front.jpg
 
twistedsymphony said:
Undoing the modification:
To reverse the mod you simply need to disconnect these pins from +5V and then re-connect them to Ground.
  1. Start by removing the bodge wire
  2. If the pins are lifted then solder them back down in place.
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I am undoing a modification on a C-board just now. The pins were lifted. As I was pressing the pins back down, pin 45 came off. Oops.

I guess it doesn't work if it's floating?

I'll try sanding the edge of the chip for the track.
 
Hey everyone. I'm trying to pick a donor board that will work with the least amount of mods needed to work with the multi. I think I'm able to use these 2 boards but I'm not sure if I'm missing anything important.

1 is a 10MHz with a -5 C board. So I think I would just need to make it 12MHz to be all set.
The other is a 12MHz with a -6 C board, so I think I would need to mod the C board to get it going.

Will either of these work?

Also, does playing encrypted ROMs vs unencrypted ROMs change the gameplay experience or is it just a preference kind of thing?

Thanks!
 

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Running with encrypted vs decrypted ROMs is computationally identical (assuming the decryption was done correctly).

I don't think we have details yet regarding the preferred CPU crystal. The conventional logic is you should get a board with a 12MHz crystal. But the multi might include a way to switch between 10MHz & 12MHz on the fly. In which case getting a board with a 10MHz crystal would be fine.
 
Paranoid_Andy said:
1 is a 10MHz with a -5 C board. So I think I would just need to make it 12MHz to be all set.
The other is a 12MHz with a -6 C board, so I think I would need to mod the C board to get it going.
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you can't got with just the "-5" and "-6" parts of the number. there are many -5 and -6 boards that are completely incompatible with the mulit (including some in your pictures) you need to compare the COMPLETE board number... also look at the pictures you'll see that they dont match the pictures in the first post.
 
the Goat said:
Running with encrypted vs decrypted ROMs is computationally identical (assuming the decryption was done correctly).

I don't think we have details yet regarding the preferred CPU crystal. The conventional logic is you should get a board with a 12MHz crystal. But the multi might include a way to switch between 10MHz & 12MHz on the fly. In which case getting a board with a 10MHz crystal would be fine.
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That makes sense, I'll keep that in mind thank you.

twistedsymphony said:
you can't got with just the "-5" and "-6" parts of the number. there are many -5 and -6 boards that are completely incompatible with the mulit (including some in your pictures) you need to compare the COMPLETE board number... also look at the pictures you'll see that they dont match the pictures in the first post.
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I didn't actually realize that. Good to know as well. The pics in my first post to you were some other options available to me. The ones I just posted here are what I can get for the best price so I figured I'd start my post with those and see what people think. The 90631C-5 seems to be a possible match if I'm understanding correctly so maybe one of these is okay?

*Edit*
Thank you both for the info btw.
 
I have 2 Original + 2 "modified" C board 92641-C, if a checked both:

Original:
Pin 45 and 46 : GND
Pin 41 to 44 : 41+43 GND, 42+44 ?

Modified
Pin 45 and 46: Wired at +5V
Pin 41 to 44 : ALL solder together (GND).

IMG_7598.jpg


I prefer doing reverse modification to use with multi, so:

-Can I let 42 and 44 Grounded with other pin (don't know where they 're supposed to go)?
- Easiest way is to solder 45/46 to other GND (after disconnecting them from +5V) ?
 
Ysi said:
I prefer doing reverse modification to use with multi, so:

-Can I let 42 and 44 Grounded with other pin (don't know where they 're supposed to go)?
- Easiest way is to solder 45/46 to other GND (after disconnecting them from +5V) ?
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twistedsymphony said:
It's possible that the "Modified" options above can be "un-modified" to return them to their original key-writing function (allowing you to play encrypted ROMs). For more Information see this post: https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...e-for-the-cps1-multi.13106/page-7#post-299448
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So if I bought a 92641C-1 back when @xodaraP was supplying them, will I have to remove the battery for the multi?
 
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