- Thread starter Hammy
- Start date
I should take on the 12mhz challenge with my board....
for those about to clock, we salute you
Couple of the pins are definitely in a ground plane, so they took more heat to pull and the vias were harder to clear with the vacuum. I also cut out the old processor to start, to save me from pulling any of these quite fragile traces. Be safe!
AlxUnderBase
Enlightened
Sir , p16 isn't good ? anyway , no problem now to change if P16 will be needed since there are socket (what kind of dip64 socket is needed?) installed . beautiful
for those about to clock, we salute you
I use P16, if the P12 is legit it should work!
Did you test with the 10mhz clock yet? all you gotta do now is lift the pin on the 04, solder the clock in the empty space (+wire up ground) , and finally add the wire
@Hammy I had no spare 10mhz’s in the bin so that will have to wait. @AlxUnderBase I also had no spare p16 but I’ll try this one first anyway. The socket is a dual wipe version that I prefer to the round machine pin kind, but I had it as spare so I’m not sure where it came from. They are harder to find for sure but any socket works (avoid the narrow pitch 64pin tho)
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I lifted pin4 on the 04 and tried a line from the 12 directly to the 68000 clock pin 15, but p47 didn’t boot.
Excellent , so 12mhz is impossible triple confirmed.
If you have an 8mhz clock it should also work for a little bump in speed along with the 10mhz.
8 is maybe more sensible but big striker and the boss games will still chug at times.
@ekorz Nice job! I havent dont mine yet, and now that you say to cut out the old cpu, will do it that way.
Would you say using solder tweezers to grab/heat the pins from one side and using a vacuum solder sucker on the other side would be a good method? Clearing out the vias is always the pita.
Would you say using solder tweezers to grab/heat the pins from one side and using a vacuum solder sucker on the other side would be a good method? Clearing out the vias is always the pita.
If you have already cut the pins on the original CPU, then when using your desoldering gun you can "free" the pin by wiggling the gun around a bit after the solder is melted and it will often drop right through. If it doesn't though, then tweezers to gently bend the pin so it will fall free.
Thanks, Trying to figure best method to use that will also clear the holes. I will cut out the cpu. makes sense. Or maybe just use hot air to remove it in one shot and solder sucker to clear out the holes. Ah choices lol.
@Derick2k i can’t say I have the best gear. My heated tweezers suck. I cut out the chip, dragged some fresh solder across both sides and all pins, then freed them one by one with the iron. That meant every hole was still plugged but already had some fresh solder on both sides. Almost all of them cleared instantly with the vacuum that way, but some required me to heat both sides with my ghetto iron-on-one-side-vacuum-on-the-other dual wield technique.
NO!!!!!!!!! That's worse, you will prob. melt the connectors, bannana the poor pcb and overheat the shit out of other chips.
Just take it easy and use normal soldering equipment.
Use low melting point solder on the grounds if needed.
I was going obviously protect the surrounding stuff is using hot air
, but yeah, will just take it slow, cut out the chip, do it pin by pin, nice and easy 
There are a few on ebay, but are overpriced imo, kinda, the games have always kinda had a higher price and the sellers left that have suitable boards always list their items way higher than normal.
The Lowest cost board you can hope to get is a P47 The Freedom Fighter and you will probably get a better price through a private sale on a forum, etc...
Now if you need one for personal use, let me know
in the USA for sure. I think in Europe and Japan Soldam is the more cost effective game.
I used to buy these for $100-$150 a piece but since the multi announcement the price has gone up overnight. There's a malfunctioning P47 on KLOV right now for $200.
