I should take on the 12mhz challenge with my board....
for those about to clock, we salute you
Couple of the pins are definitely in a ground plane, so they took more heat to pull and the vias were harder to clear with the vacuum. I also cut out the old processor to start, to save me from pulling any of these quite fragile traces. Be safe!I should take on the 12mhz challenge with my board....
I also cut out the old processor to start, to save me from pulling any of these quite fragile traces. Be safe!
Sir , p16 isn't good ? anyway , no problem now to change if P16 will be needed since there are socket (what kind of dip64 socket is needed?) installed . beautiful
for those about to clock, we salute you
I use P16, if the P12 is legit it should work!Sir , p16 isn't good
for those about to clock, we salute you
I lifted pin4 on the 04 and tried a line from the 12 directly to the 68000 clock pin 15, but p47 didn’t boot.You could try for the "1 wire mod" at 12mhz but it did not work for me. (but maybe that was the questionable processor...)
Excellent , so 12mhz is impossible triple confirmed.I lifted pin4 on the 04 and tried a line from the 12 directly to the 68000 clock pin 15, but p47 didn’t boot.
If you have already cut the pins on the original CPU, then when using your desoldering gun you can "free" the pin by wiggling the gun around a bit after the solder is melted and it will often drop right through. If it doesn't though, then tweezers to gently bend the pin so it will fall free.@ekorz Nice job! I havent dont mine yet, and now that you say to cut out the old cpu, will do it that way.
Would you say using solder tweezers to grab/heat the pins from one side and using a vacuum solder sucker on the other side would be a good method? Clearing out the vias is always the pita.
Thanks, Trying to figure best method to use that will also clear the holes. I will cut out the cpu. makes sense. Or maybe just use hot air to remove it in one shot and solder sucker to clear out the holes. Ah choices lol.If you have already cut the pins on the original CPU, then when using your desoldering gun you can "free" the pin by wiggling the gun around a bit after the solder is melted and it will often drop right through. If it doesn't though, then tweezers to gently bend the pin so it will fall free.
NO!!!!!!!!! That's worse, you will prob. melt the connectors, bannana the poor pcb and overheat the shit out of other chips.Or maybe just use hot air to remove it
I was going obviously protect the surrounding stuff is using hot air , but yeah, will just take it slow, cut out the chip, do it pin by pin, nice and easyNO!!!!!!!!! That's worse, you will prob. melt the connectors, bannana the poor pcb and overheat the shit out of other chips.
Just take it easy and use normal soldering equipment.
Use low melting point solder on the grounds if needed.
There are a few on ebay, but are overpriced imo, kinda, the games have always kinda had a higher price and the sellers left that have suitable boards always list their items way higher than normal.Can someone post to a multi-ready PCB for this up for sale on eBay?
in the USA for sure. I think in Europe and Japan Soldam is the more cost effective game.The Lowest cost board you can hope to get is a P47 The Freedom Fighter