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Instead of completely removing the remapping chip and trying to reconnect the cut traces underneath, you could map the controls to the default for your cabinet, then lift pin 1 and pin 28 of the remapping chip out of the vias on the PCB. This will remove the P1 and P2 start button inputs from the remapping chip, effectively locking it from entering remapping mode unless the connection is restored. That should be a lot less work.

Thanks for clearing this up - hopefully i'll get around to it in the next few days :thumbup:
The DIY route definitely requires some intermediate level soldering skills, good solder, good flux, good solder paste, and magnification. But this is pretty fun. Still awaiting for some parts and tooling, but got a head start on assembly. Woot!

I removed the link posted which translated @kasaski's AU Digikey cart to a US Digikey cart for building JAMMAizer. There are significant incorrect and missing parts in those carts.

I'll build a unit or two to make sure everything is in order, test them out, then post the BOM which documents Arthrimus's project overall and expands on kasaski's work. Got the OK from Arthrimus to do so. He always intended this to be an open-source project and I will keep to this. He also said for me to post about my experience in building this. In that respect, I can tell you that the supply chain issues that Arthrimus mentioned that threw JAMMAizer production into hiatus are very real. For instance, I ordered 5 ATTINY87 chips a few days ago from Digikey required for HOME/SELECT emulation, now they are all backordered. The other thing is that, while you can build a single unit for yourself, there are some components that can only be bought in bulk or only make sense to buy in bulk. Little things like each JAMMAizer requires a quantity of 18 M3x0.5 6mm screws (8 to fasten the standoffs to JAMMAizer, 8 to fasten the MC PCB's to the standoffs, 1 to fasten the resistor to the heat sink, and 1 to fasten the heat sink to the JAMMAizer)! MOQ for the heat sink is 11 pieces from Taday Electronics! You cannot obtain the components to build JAMMAizer from a single source. Quite a few of these sources have long lead times. Also, you need proper tooling to build a unit for yourself. By that I mean, not just a programmer that can program a 40Dip IC, you need an adapter that program a 20SOIC chip. This tooling doesn't even mention the soldering tools: tweezers you need for the small SMD components, along with magnification. Anyhoo, I've loved this project since Day 1 and will do my part in documenting it. I can see why it was a struggle for Arthrimus to document it as there are a lot of moving pieces that don't come from a single source.
40-pin DIP sockets arrived today. The button mapper sits taller in the JAMMAizer and so there is less clearance for MC PCB's. I soldered in the DIP sockets and fitted the button mapper chip to test fitment with various MC console PCB's that I have:
  • Arthrimus's MC Cthulhu EZ PCB
  • Akishops PS360+
  • and a PCB I created to fit the Daemonbite Encoder into the form factor for 2x10 MC PCB's originated by Akishops, now popularized by Brook
All my MC PCB's fit perfectly with the PS360+ having having just enough clearance and rendering PS360+'s back connector unusable. But then again, even if the button mapper chip isn't socketed, it still wouldn't be useable. Not too many people still have this PCB, so I don't imagine it is a big deal. I don't have the Brook Retro board or the Brook Pi Zero, but I don't see those not fitting either. Of course, there are other MC PCB's out there that use the 2x10 form factor, but they drive HD consoles. Would be a little silly to drive HD consoles in a 15/24/31khz based cab, IMO. Below are some pics:

Here it is sitting in the socket. Nothing special shown but should someone release code later to add to the button mapper features, there is flexibility to remove and reprogram. Also, should you have a bad burn before you get to assembly, easy removal of the ATMEGA16/164p will save your life; this alone should be more than enough reason to socket the button mapper chip.


Arthrimus's MC Cthulhu EZ PCB and my PCB for the Daemonbite Encoder. Once I get to testing, I'll check if I made the Daemonbite Encoder PCB correctly and release the gerbers for that. Cheap solution for controlling MAME or MiSTer with super low latency.


Here is a pic of the JAMMAizer's assembly thus far in comparison to the one I bought from Arthrimus (middle). Still awaiting some components before I get to testing, but everything is chugging away smoothly.


As for supply chain shortages impacting assembly, the gold audio-grade Nichicon UFW/D series capacitor near the JAMMA edge connector is OOS everywhere. I don't think this is an issue as I have never seen audio grade caps used on an actual arcade PCB. I've never heard of high-grade JAMMA mono sound anyway, so I'll just use a general purpose capacitor. I can always swap out later. Anyhow, once I have a substitue for this cap, I can then get to testing. Should be this week. 5-position JST NH headers used for buttons 7+8 are also OOS everywhere. As a substitute, I suppose I can use a JST NH header with more positions and just cut it down to 5-positions. Or I can use JST XH. But I've never seen a JAMMA or JVS based cab come OEM with 8 buttons (yet) either. I don't have such a cab, so no biggie for me.

Arthrimus mentioned that I should feel freel to talk about the build experience. I'll include full details of the experience with costs later once everything is tested and tabulated. What I can say now is should you choose to dive in and assemble a JAMMAizer for yourself (it is very doable), you are looking a 1-2 months to source all the components before you can start assembly. If you are lucky, a critical component isn't in supply chain hell when you decide to build yours. Also, I've never had a profession where I was paid to do soldering. I don't have an EE degree. I am a pretty good as far as a hobbyist soldering skills go, but I solder only when I need to. This puts me par for the course with just about every other arcade hobbyist out there. But you are looking at 2-4 hours of assembly time without testing. As most of the components are tiny SMD components, you will need good solering materials. You won't be able to pull this off without good flux and/or paste. And you better have good soldering tools. That $19 Radio Shack soldering iron you have for recapping your monitors with the shitty-ass tip won't cut it for SMD. Testing will be another 15 minutes if you're set up is ready go and if you didn't make a mistake in assembly. The first JAMMAizer I did took me 3.5+ hours to assemble. I got more efficient as I learned my way around the board and finished one in about 2 hours. Well almost finished. I still need some parts. Hopefully, I'll get to testing this weekend.
@RealMFnG how good does the daemonbite arcade encoder perform on a groovymame setup - i only found one dude online comparing it to the brooks for fighting games and said it would skip some inputs for him?
@RealMFnG how good does the daemonbite arcade encoder perform on a groovymame setup - i only found one dude online comparing it to the brooks for fighting games and said it would skip some inputs for him?
LoL! I haven't even used it yet. I will test it out as soon as I get the capacitor. One big thing that I need to test for is to ensure that Windows 7 enumerates the PCB upon cold bootup. I know with the MC Cthulhu, you have to unplug/replug the USB connection so that the boards are enumerated. It is so dumb.
JLCPCB offers SMT assembly for in-stock components but you have to submit a BOM and CPL file along with the gerber. That would reduce the amount of assembly required, they're also OOS on the ATTINY87 (lcsc).
Speaking of the ATTINY87, I've went through two different SOIC20-to-DIP20 programming adapters (one that came in the mail today) and neither can accommodate the width of that IC. I did dry fit the ATTINY87 to the JAMMAizer to confirm it is the correct size. The IC's still won't fit into the adapter. Options online pretty much are all the same. Going to be really hard to program HOME/EMU circuit. That is another challenge for anyone that wishes to fab these up on their own.


Might need to use a breakout PCB like the one above just to get it working.

EDIT: Problem solved. I used a larger SOIC28-to-DIP adapter. It was able to accomodate the width of the ATTINY87 and programmed it lickity-split!
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Hey guys, I wanted to tell a short story and make an announcement about future JAMMAizer production.

This past week I finally decided to dig into the library of Atomiswave to Dreamcast conversions using my personal Console JAMMAizer with in my New Net City. I had a blast playing through Dolphin Blue and decided to try out Metal Slug 6. Frustratingly the default button map for those two games do not match one another despite being designed for the same hardware and converted by the same person. The fact that I had to reprogram my controls for both players every time I switched games really started to get on my nerves, so I decided to open up my R.M.A.F. firmware and port it over to the ATMEGA16 that the original button remapping code written by RGB used. Porting the R.M.A.F. firmware allowed me to add support for 6 independent switchable profiles per player and I was able to implement the vertical sync locked autofire capability that RGB's original remapping had which the R.M.A.F. does not have.

I have been testing it out for a few days and I have to say, it is a huge quality of life improvement. I have decided that all future JAMMAizers will now ship with this new remapping chip, and that the original remapping chip the RGB designed will be retired.

The new chip functions exactly the same as the old one, so all of the user interfacing will be exactly the same except for the new profile selection mode.

Instructions on profile selection:
In order to select a profile you must hold one of the following button combinations for 3 seconds.
  • Profile #1 = Start + B1 + B2 + B3
  • Profile #2 = Start + B2 + B3 + B4
  • Profile #3 = Start + B3 + B4 + B5
  • Profile #4 = Start + B4 + B5 + B6
  • Profile #5 = Start + B5 + B6 + B1
  • Profile #6 = Start + B6 + B1 + B2
Each player can select a profile independently and each profile can be programmed independently for each player. Once you are in a profile you can edit the remapping and auto fire settings just like you normally would, and they will be retained in that profile.

People who have the existing Console JAMMAizer with remapping chip.
If you already have a Console JAMMAizer with the original remapping chip you have the option to flash the new firmware onto your existing chip.

Update Instructions:

In order to update your Console JAMMAizer's remapping chip you need a couple of tools.
  1. A USBASP AVR programmer such as this one.
  2. AVRDUDE or for a more convenient GUI AVRDUDESS.
  3. Dupont wires to connect the USBASP to the pins of the ATMEGA16 such as these.
  4. The new firmware HEX from my Github repository.
Everyone should have an ATMEGA16, but check your chip to make sure. There is also a HEX for ATMEGA164 chips which may be used as well.

Solder your dupont wires to the legs of the ATMEGA16 and connect them to the USBASP according to the following images


Plug your Console JAMMAizer into a power source, either an arcade cabinet or a Supergun and power it on, then plug your USBASP into your computer.


Using AVRDUDESS load up your HEX file, select your programmer, and set your fuses.
Console JAMMAizer Reprogram.jpg

For your fuses you want to set the Low Byte to 0xC4 and the High Byte to 0xD5

Hit program and watch the magic happen. Once the chip is done programming and verifies, you are fully updated and you can now disconnect your USBASP and the programming wires and use your JAMMAizer as normal.

If anyone has any questions, please let me know, I probably have an answer!
is it possible to unsold it to reprogram it directly with a standard eprom programmer, or could you sell it directly reprogrammed?
is it possible to unsold it to reprogram it directly with a standard eprom programmer, or could you sell it directly reprogrammed?
Yes. it's flash memory. You can remove it and reprogram it with a standard programmer. However, removing a socketed IC that is soldered in via a through hole joint is always a risk.

You have a better shot at not damaging your JAMMAizer if you perform the upgrade in the manner that Arthrimus recommends.
it's cheapier and faster for me, but you are in right must be carefull extremely. I can use the hex files on the link?
Yeap, just follow the instructions Arthrimus left. It isn't complex, but does require special setup and powering requirements.
Yes. it's flash memory. You can remove it and reprogram it with a standard programmer. However, removing a socketed IC that is soldered in via a through hole joint is always a risk.

You have a better shot at not damaging your JAMMAizer if you perform the upgrade in the manner that Arthrimus recommends.
can I re mount it on a suppor?
can I re mount it on a suppor?
Requires you to remove a through hole soldered component and take on the risk of damaging the traces on your JAMMAizer. If you want to take that risk, go ahead and unsolder it, reprogram it, add in a socket, reinstall the chip.

EDIT: Only you can make that decision.
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@RealMFnG how good does the daemonbite arcade encoder perform on a groovymame setup - i only found one dude online comparing it to the brooks for fighting games and said it would skip some inputs for him?
I did some preliminary testing with this on my Blast City and a Windows 7 laptop just looking at the Control Panel properties of the board. This was while the Blast City was being fed A/V from a PS2 via JAMMAizer. All directional inputs work, all action buttons work and register to the correct input. But I couldn't get the START button to register at all. Might be my Blast City's control panel. Didn't fire up MAME at all. Interestingly enough, of all people on A-P.com, I don't have a working MAME rig handy right now :). FYI, another member told me the Daemonbite Encoder works great in his MAME setup. Considering how responsive it seemed in Windows Properties, there shouldn't be an issue especially since it was designed with SOCD in mind. With SOCD, I can't imagine inputs not being registered.

For my purposes, I am praying to the heavens above that the Daemonbite Encoder is the one joystick PCB that Windows 7 enumerates on cold boot up. All the other ones require you to unplug the USB connection and replug on cold bootup so that Windows enumerates the USB joystick (soooooo dumb).

I have some kinks to work out with the START button. Then the gerber gets released.