Ah I see, I jumped ahead in the thread to see the paint job.
- Thread starter opt2not
- Start date
At first I was contemplating doing rattle can, but the paint job on these cabs are Pearlescent, which is harder to do out of cans. Another option was to buy a paint gun and compressor and learn how to do the pearl, but that would have costed a bunch of money and space. And questionable whether I could have pulled off a finish as nice as this. The Auto Paint shop I went to is only 15 mins away from my house and they did an excellent job! Happy I went this route.
Today's main task was to build a back plate for the one missing leg mount.
I just cut a piece of scrap wood to match and drilled some holes.
Had to make the countersink holes a bit bigger to get my socket bit in there to hold the nuts. Not my cleanest work, but oh well.
Success! This worked out.
Next up is the marquee holder. Big thanks again to @PASTBLASTER for donating this to the cause!
It had a crack at the base that Pastblaster repaired, which doesn't bother me much...
...but these scratches need to go!
Hit both parts with Novus 1,2 and 3, polished out the scratches as best I could.
Lightyears better.
Had to throw this on the cab to see how it looks. Check out the shine from the side!
I really like how the marquee is angled downward, similar to the Egret 29's.
The crack isn't noticeable too. All in all, very happy!
The artwork should arrive this week. It's passing through Chicago this weekend, so hopefully only a few more days to get to California. Other than that, the construction side of the actual cab is complete! Next up, I'm tackling the monitor buffing. Wish me luck!
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This is a great option! I took my Yaton cabs over to a biker who painted motorcycle parts. I figured they were both curved plastics, so the experience would transfer over. It turned out amazing. Its worth the extra money to get it done professionally.
PASTBLASTER
Grand Master
Happy to assist. This is coming out really nice! Can't wait to see it with the new arts!
A note on those repros, I got their 100 yen repro sticker. It was very difficult to apply because the material is very stretchy and soft. I'd imagine it'll be even more difficult with the huge side-art, as holding it from any point will cause the decal to droop and stretch.
Also dad gum, your restore is unreal!
Thanks for the heads-up, the artwork is going to arrive today. I’ll check it out and see how different it is from other side art I’ve worked with before.
Also thanks again for your awesome restore thread. I’ve referenced it a bunch of times throughout this project.
Artwork finally arrived! Ordered over a month ago, took forever for Arcade Art Repro to get them to me, but I'm glad it's finally here. Quality looks pretty good.
Feels like the side-art I installed on both my Aero's. Thick but flexible. Should go on nicely.
For the 100 yen repro sticker the material is different. a bit more thin. I can see what Asobu was talking about. They sent me 2 of those, so if I mess up the first one, I have another to try again.
Big thank you to @kikaso for gifting me the proper MS9-29 yoke for my Toshiba tube! This will allow me to get much better convergence now! (plus I can put the Hitachi yoke onto my spare tube and have that ready for a backup...or perhaps another project?
)
Feels like the side-art I installed on both my Aero's. Thick but flexible. Should go on nicely.
For the 100 yen repro sticker the material is different. a bit more thin. I can see what Asobu was talking about. They sent me 2 of those, so if I mess up the first one, I have another to try again.
Big thank you to @kikaso for gifting me the proper MS9-29 yoke for my Toshiba tube! This will allow me to get much better convergence now! (plus I can put the Hitachi yoke onto my spare tube and have that ready for a backup...or perhaps another project?
)
Convergence is so much easier when you have the proper yoke! Thanks for pointing that out, @Mukuro_W
I spent about an hour getting the geometry and convergence looking as best I can. I'm happy with the way this is looking. I could easily spend another hour messing with it, but I think I'm going to leave it here for now.
Just a little separation along the top edge, I can live with that, but I will try to get magnets to help with this specific area.
Up close you can see it's converging really nicely. This is Dynamic convergence, outside of the center of the screen.
I used a handful of magnets for the corners, but I'll do some edge work later.
Quickly did a color calibration pass as well.
I'm calling this good! Onto the remaining tasks!
I have about 6 things left to do:
- Install Side and Coin artwork
- Polish monitor scratches
- change Degauss wire connector to properly fit to this chassis' degauss header
- Finish installing the remaining capacitors onto the chassis (i only replaced about half)
- Reinstall Wiring into cab and make sure to ground all internal metals
- Recrimp CP harness to connect standard japanese control parts
This all should be doable in the next few days.
I spent about an hour getting the geometry and convergence looking as best I can. I'm happy with the way this is looking. I could easily spend another hour messing with it, but I think I'm going to leave it here for now.
Just a little separation along the top edge, I can live with that, but I will try to get magnets to help with this specific area.
Up close you can see it's converging really nicely. This is Dynamic convergence, outside of the center of the screen.
I used a handful of magnets for the corners, but I'll do some edge work later.
Quickly did a color calibration pass as well.
I'm calling this good! Onto the remaining tasks!
I have about 6 things left to do:
- Install Side and Coin artwork
- Polish monitor scratches
- change Degauss wire connector to properly fit to this chassis' degauss header
- Finish installing the remaining capacitors onto the chassis (i only replaced about half)
- Reinstall Wiring into cab and make sure to ground all internal metals
- Recrimp CP harness to connect standard japanese control parts
This all should be doable in the next few days.
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Well done, Is the purity ok on the lower - bottom corners of the screen? if you still have convergence issue which are like impossible to fix by the neck magnet rings than you have to apply some inner magnet just inside the yoke. May I take a look at your ms9 chassis? Need just a photi on primary power section and model code just to identify the revision.
Convergence is a funny thing. I absolutely hate to mess with it as it’s a rabbit-hole for sure. Many times, the test patterns are really the easiest way to drive yourself mad. i have a monitor that’s similar where I just can’t get that last bit to cooperate, but in game it looks fine.
Definitely black magic.
Definitely black magic.
I see, the best arcade monitor I have its a wells Gardner k7000 paired with a zenith tube it is just out of convergence on the corners but perfect on the center, nothing can correct the corners but it still supply the best 15khz picture I ever seen on a crt!
The bottom corners look like this:
This is pretty good IMO. The sides of the monitor is a little separated, but I'm not too worried about that. I don't think I can get much better than this, and it's probably better than my other cab monitors!
I spent a little more time on the overall convergence today, I am going to leave it now. This will look wonderful when a game is running on it.
Here you go:
I believe it’s an MS9-29T but let me know if I’m wrong.
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It's side-art time!
This is the most nerve racking part for me whenever I do these restores. Monitor discharging? No problem. Damage repair? Easy. But vinyl art application, I’m on pins and needles.
I got my favourite tool for it though. Plastic squeegee specifically made for art application.
First I line it up, tape it down with painters tape, then peel one side and work my way down massaging the air bubbles out with the squeegee. You can also use soapy water with the squeegee to help glide along the art while you're massaging the bubbles out, so you don't scratch up the art. But for me, my squeegee has a very smooth edge that doesn't scratch.
It's odd that the art is installed with the top corner over a gap. This is how it's done at the factory,
Just peel and swipe as you go with the squeegee to get the bubbles out.
This side-art comes in 3 parts per side. There's the top part with the Windy logo, and middle and bottom rhombus-shaped parts. This makes it even more difficult to lineup together.
Also not a fan of the way the side-art is supposed to go over the back shell screws.
Complete! Lookin' pretty snazzy.
Love the continuous shine from the cab's paint to the side-art.
I still got the other side to do that I'll get to tonight when the fam's asleep.
This is getting really close to the end!
This is the most nerve racking part for me whenever I do these restores. Monitor discharging? No problem. Damage repair? Easy. But vinyl art application, I’m on pins and needles.
I got my favourite tool for it though. Plastic squeegee specifically made for art application.
First I line it up, tape it down with painters tape, then peel one side and work my way down massaging the air bubbles out with the squeegee. You can also use soapy water with the squeegee to help glide along the art while you're massaging the bubbles out, so you don't scratch up the art. But for me, my squeegee has a very smooth edge that doesn't scratch.
It's odd that the art is installed with the top corner over a gap. This is how it's done at the factory,
Just peel and swipe as you go with the squeegee to get the bubbles out.
This side-art comes in 3 parts per side. There's the top part with the Windy logo, and middle and bottom rhombus-shaped parts. This makes it even more difficult to lineup together.
Also not a fan of the way the side-art is supposed to go over the back shell screws.
Complete! Lookin' pretty snazzy.
Love the continuous shine from the cab's paint to the side-art.
I still got the other side to do that I'll get to tonight when the fam's asleep.
This is getting really close to the end!
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Real quick post. The rest of the artwork has been installed.
No problems getting the other side-art on. Everything lines up well.
Repro Insert Coin decal and Instruction Space art as well!
The Insert Coin decal has a metallic silver sheen to it. I can't recall if that was on the original, but I like it. Goes well with the pearl white finish of the cab.
You also can't even tell there were two holes previously drilled in, next to the coin slot. The putty and epoxy seems to have worked out really well. I'm going to use that method for plastic repair in the future.
I'm also installing one of my chrome coin slot covers, which I'll do a buffing pass to tomorrow.
No problems getting the other side-art on. Everything lines up well.
Repro Insert Coin decal and Instruction Space art as well!
The Insert Coin decal has a metallic silver sheen to it. I can't recall if that was on the original, but I like it. Goes well with the pearl white finish of the cab.
You also can't even tell there were two holes previously drilled in, next to the coin slot. The putty and epoxy seems to have worked out really well. I'm going to use that method for plastic repair in the future.
I'm also installing one of my chrome coin slot covers, which I'll do a buffing pass to tomorrow.
PASTBLASTER
Grand Master
This came out great! How does the pink compare to the original control panel pink? My repro panels are a bit darker than the original, so was curious if this art was closer or not.
Looks like the side-art is slightly lighter than the original control panel.
But the side-art does match the marquee brightness, so I don't know if they're all supposed to match or if the CP is darker than the sides from the factory.
Took a look at the marquee lighting.
Retrofitted a new LED bulb in replace of the power hungry florescent. I’ve replaced all my cab’s marquee bulbs with these. Cuts down on the heat quite a bit. It's especially vital for having all my cabs in one small room.
These LED bulbs only need direct AC, so you disconnect the starter and the ballast, further reducing the heat generation.
Also, after recapping and reflowing the PSU, I’m happy to see some good power numbers.
This PSU also has a solid -5v output. Definitely nice to have, especially for some of the older games.
Retrofitted a new LED bulb in replace of the power hungry florescent. I’ve replaced all my cab’s marquee bulbs with these. Cuts down on the heat quite a bit. It's especially vital for having all my cabs in one small room.
These LED bulbs only need direct AC, so you disconnect the starter and the ballast, further reducing the heat generation.
Also, after recapping and reflowing the PSU, I’m happy to see some good power numbers.
This PSU also has a solid -5v output. Definitely nice to have, especially for some of the older games.
Kidkaos
Grand Master
W
Where are you getting your 18" LED BULBS from? I haven't been able to find them.Took a look at the marquee lighting.
Retrofitted a new LED bulb in replace of the power hungry florescent. I’ve replaced all my cab’s marquee bulbs with these. Cuts down on the heat quite a bit. It's especially vital for having all my cabs in one small room.
These LED bulbs only need direct AC, so you disconnect the starter and the ballast, further reducing the heat generation.
Also, after recapping and reflowing the PSU, I’m happy to see some good power numbers.
This PSU also has a solid -5v output. Definitely nice to have, especially for some of the older games.
Amazon!W
Where are you getting your 18" LED BULBS from? I haven't been able to find them.
https://a.co/d/0EijxB1
