FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

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Sounds to me like separate JAMMA harness it is! Now let's just look at how to tap into the Windy II's connectors.
 
I'm not jumping the gun, they might have the Konami JVS to Jamma boards. I can't imagine an arcade running all those cabs just on jvs
 
curious as I'm getting a jammafier but I got offered a Namco jvs to jamma. Which is best the Namco one or konami? I know the konami one has pinout for its stereo connection on its games.
I would say the Konami is better engineered - video is noticably clearer and the audio attenuation is 'correct' compared to the Namco. The Konami though suffer in the power-delivery department because it only has one JST-VL connector to feed it, and it doesn't generate -5V (but has a connector for it so you can hook it up).

If you're only going to use games that use little power, I would say go for the Konami (vs the Namco, the Jammafier tries to get everything right :))

The namco one has an annoying bug/feature in that coin doesn't work on cave cv-1000 games.
 
It is worth pointing out that a JVS-to-JAMMA solution is going to net you a few frames of lag. Most of the blame will lie on the cabinet's JVS IO board, but the JAMMAfier polls at a rate outside the JVS spec, and doing so has shown to sometimes make latency vary irregularly. Experience with a JAMMAfier with a New Net City informed the decision to abandon it, as it added around 3 frames, and get a JAMMA harness for the cabinet instead.
If you experience issues, please do inform me (mail works great :) ). I've done lag measurements with function-generator, a buffer to sink the IO pins + scope on both 'input' and 'output' on several IO boards. The latency should always be less than 1 frame, at least the IO board's I've tested with. AFAIK, there is nothing in the jvs spec that dictates poll frequency - but some IO boards get wonky if you drive them too fast, so there is a small delay to accommodate that. The namco jvs2jamma also does jvs polling at a high rate.
 
curious as I'm getting a jammafier but I got offered a Namco jvs to jamma. Which is best the Namco one or konami? I know the konami one has pinout for its stereo connection on its games.
I would say the Konami is better engineered - video is noticably clearer and the audio attenuation is 'correct' compared to the Namco. The Konami though suffer in the power-delivery department because it only has one JST-VL connector to feed it, and it doesn't generate -5V (but has a connector for it so you can hook it up).
If you're only going to use games that little power, I would say go for the Konami (vs the Namco, the Jammafier tries to get everything right :))
ya I'm waiting on your parts to arrive so I can pay for mine. i sent you a question though about how I noticed the konami one has a connector for stereo and not the red and white rca but a 3 or 4 pin connector like on konami jamma boards. Anyway to tap or add that on jammafier?
 
Maybe someone here can help me with my Windy II question. Can anyone identify that piece of equipment on the top of the power supply? It has 2 green wires coming out of it.

It doesn't look standard from the pictures I have seen.
 

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Thats an isolation transformer. You see them added to candy cabs alot for use with 220v in HK and China. I'm pretty sure these we're all verifyed 110v though, so maybe they were just left there after the rewiring?
 
A little off topic. Is there a thread search tool that I'm not seeing? There is a little shakeup on I need to figure out pecking order.
 
what I did to see the earliest on the thread i responded just search by user name under the sales section granted that doesn't help with pms
 
Thats an isolation transformer. You see them added to candy cabs alot for use with 220v in HK and China.
you're mixing terminology:

isolation transformers have a 1:1 winding and are used to protect the AC source from a voltage back feed from an un-isolated monitor. these are found in old cabs from the 80s and early 90s before the isolation circuits started being integrated into the monitor chassis.

step-down/step up transformers have a 1:n winding and are used to increase or decrease the voltage when using a machine in a country with a different voltage.

There is a big difference between where these are placed as well, a Step Down or Step Up Transformer will be placed directly on the incoming power source because it needs to adjust the voltage for the whole machine. so not just the monitor but also the PSU and the marquee lamp or any other equipment in the machine. An isolation transformer is placed JUST on the AC line to the monitor, because it needs to isolate the monitor from everything else. If you put your isolation transformer outside the machine then your monitor will blow out your PSU, your marquee lamp or any other equipment attached to that AC line.
 
The way it was explained to me years ago was that the transformers were Isolation transformers that also stepped down to 110. They are manufacturered in China/HK because this is a common problem with many items in that region as they are imported in from JP. I always took it as fact because Midway and Atari made similar iso transformers that produced weird voltages for sound/coin mechs/ect.

Learn something new every day I guess. Thanks for the info, I'll use then proper terminology going forward!
 
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I mean technically most transformers are isolation transformer, by the very nature of the way they work. but "isolation transformers" like those used in arcades are really "monitor isolation transformers" and they serve no other purpose other than their isolation properties.

Using Midway as an example MK2 and KI1 both had isolation transformers since they used WG K7000 or Hantrex Polo monitors which required them.

KI2 and MK3 used WG U2000 or other more modern monitors with built in isolation, and thus those cabs didn't include isolation transformers.

Some companies were clever and did indeed have dual purpose transformers.

Old Nintendo cabs like Donkey Kong had dual output 120 to 100V step down transformer so one output was used for the monitor and served as both a step down and isolation, while the other output was for the PSU, marquee lamp and service outlet so the design of the transformer allowed to both isolate the monitor and provide a step down. Not all step down transformers can function this way, the Nintendo transformer are built specifically for this.
 
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I mean technically every transformer is an isolation transformer, by the very nature of the way they work.
Not all transformers are isolating. Autotransformers have only one winding. Many cheaper step up / down converters are like this. Don't make assumptions and always double check that it is indeed isolating.
 
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