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FS Egret 2/Windy 2/NNC/Q25 (Repair refund)

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It’s only mandatory if you use that weiya psu. I ripped that junk out, tossed in a sanwa and good to go. I use nothing weiya in my cabinets.

It’s definitely not needed for running Type X2.
 
rewrite said:
When you run them at the wrong voltages, sure
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You know Round 1 has dozens of Vewlix cabs in service (among many other Japanese only cabs) at their US locations, I'd be curious what they do to deal with the voltage issues on the Vewlix PSUs.
 
twistedsymphony said:
rewrite said:
When you run them at the wrong voltages, sure
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You know Round 1 has dozens of Vewlix cabs in service (among many other Japanese only cabs) at their US locations, I'd be curious what they do to deal with the voltage issues on the Vewlix PSUs.
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We’ll, the voltage issue is only with the Weiya JVS power supplies Taito used. I don’t think round one is running cabs with the jvs psu. the original psu for the monitor or the 12v psu for the rest of the cab works ok with 120v. But regardless, ill run the cabs at the JP voltage as intended.
 
twistedsymphony said:
You know Round 1 has dozens of Vewlix cabs in service (among many other Japanese only cabs) at their US locations, I'd be curious what they do to deal with the voltage issues on the Vewlix PSUs.
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The majority of the games I've seen running in HD cabs don't use the Vewlix PSU, they just use the outlet inside the cab, like a TTX2/3 would. I haven't seen Naomi or 2x6 running in a cab out here at all. So it's likely just a non-issue.
 
rewrite said:
ReplicaX said:
Agree 100%. If you have Weiya / Rodotron / Makvision products you are just asking to have issues, period.
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When you run them at the wrong voltages, sure. :P
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When you run the Taiwan standard for garbage in your cab, sure :P

In all seriousness though. Their rebranded Rodotron and Makvision products are designed for 120v and fail constantly. Just like their 100v PSU and Chassis with a proper stepdown.

twistedsymphony said:
You know Round 1 has dozens of Vewlix cabs in service (among many other Japanese only cabs) at their US locations, I'd be curious what they do to deal with the voltage issues on the Vewlix PSUs.
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Some run Weiya for TypeX stuff and if it fails a standard Switching PSU replacement. Their other Vewlix setups are just regular 15A JAMMA PSUs with a Video Converter or a Sun and its equivalent. Everything is on 120V.
 
@ReplicaX. I dunno, I've never had an issue across half a dozen AWSD's and Egret 3's I've owned, or the 1 Vewlix I have with them. I'll assume I just have good luck!

I can't be bothered to fix Taito or the previous game center or whoever being cheap on my own unless they actually fail, so it's Weiya until they die, then I'll put something nicer in its place.
 
radiantsvgun said:
It’s only mandatory if you use that weiya psu. I ripped that junk out, tossed in a sanwa and good to go. I use nothing weiya in my cabinets.

It’s definitely not needed for running Type X2.
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Link to the Sawna PSU please.
 
rewrite said:
@ReplicaX. I dunno, I've never had an issue across half a dozen AWSD's and Egret 3's I've owned, or the 1 Vewlix I have with them. I'll assume I just have good luck!

I can't be bothered to fix Taito or the previous game center or whoever being cheap on my own unless they actually fail, so it's Weiya until they die, then I'll put something nicer in its place.
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Oh don't get me wrong, I don't blame you from an economical sense at all or keeping it factory as long as possible when logical.
I've helped a lot of ppl with Weiya stuff and I think that is the huge issue.

While you have had good luck, my biggest advice is keeping an eye on those Chassis and PSU Caps. If you have anything odd happen, look those pcbs over. When you compare Wei-ya pcbs to others, you can spot the shotty line work. Poor soldering, poor solder, and wonder if they even have QC folks. They are known to sneak in lesser quality components as well to keep production costs down. Why for example, when Taito was bought out, they stopped making their own stuff to reduce production costs as the JP was shrinking.

They remind me a lot of Ming Dong as far as production line QC goes.
 
I don't know, Ming Dong is on another level of poor quality control. It's the only brand of PSU I've ever had fail on me.

I have a spare Rodotron chassis here. I was thinking of putting quality caps on it and going over the soldering. Apparently, Jomac had these running for three years straight, 18hrs / day. Mine will never see that kind of use, so hopefully will be good for a long while yet.
 
nem said:
I don't know, Ming Dong is on another level of poor quality control. It's the only brand of PSU I've ever had fail on me.

I have a spare Rodotron chassis here. I was thinking of putting quality caps on it and going over the soldering. Apparently, Jomac had these running for three years straight, 18hrs / day. Mine will never see that kind of use, so hopefully will be good for a long while yet.
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From what I read somewhere they installed a fan to blow cool air over them + did a full reflow on them to keep them running...
 
PascalP said:
nem said:
I don't know, Ming Dong is on another level of poor quality control. It's the only brand of PSU I've ever had fail on me.

I have a spare Rodotron chassis here. I was thinking of putting quality caps on it and going over the soldering. Apparently, Jomac had these running for three years straight, 18hrs / day. Mine will never see that kind of use, so hopefully will be good for a long while yet.
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From what I read somewhere they installed a fan to blow cool air over them + did a full reflow on them to keep them running...
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Yes, he did a full recap/reflow out of the box and installed 12v cooling fans over the chassis and the neckboard. I remember reading up on it on AO somewhere as I was thinking of using one as a replacement for a ms9, but I ended up getting a ms9 from yaton.

Edit: found it: https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Rodotron_666
 
I've spent the last two hours recapping the Rodotron. Unfortunately, there's a huge issue with these chassis, something that wasn't obvious 15 years ago straight of the assembly line. Rodotron / Wei-Ya / whoever manufactured this junk used this orange glue to tack down a bunch of components. Well, it seems as it ages it becomes corrosive. See this jumper right below the cap:

corrosive_crap.jpg

Guess what was previously covered in glue?

And guess else what else is covered in glue?

corrosive_crap_2.jpg


All the custom parts!

I spent 30 minutes scraping off all of this crap, but I'm sure the damage has already been done.
 

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nem said:
I've spent the last two hours recapping the Rodotron. Unfortunately, there's a huge issue with these chassis, something that wasn't obvious 15 years ago straight of the assembly line. Rodotron / Wei-Ya / whoever manufactured this junk used this orange glue to tack down a bunch of components. Well, it seems as it ages it becomes corrosive. See this jumper right below the cap:

Guess what was previously covered in glue?


And guess else what else is covered in glue?

All the custom parts!


I spent 30 minutes scraping off all of this crap, but I'm sure the damage has already been done.
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Yep, I feel your pain as this is part of the reason why I don't touch them anymore. How does the soldering look on it?
 
Soldering looks OK. I can see why Jomac put a fan on these, there's an 1" x 1" area that has three large resistors and five large diodes that runs super hot. On the solder side the PCB has turned brown and the contacts are more or less gone. I had to jump a few traces.

Still waiting for the rest of the parts to come in the mail. If it has issues after recapping, I think I'll salvage whatever is worth salvaging and bin it. I don't think it's worth the time and effort to fix.
 
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