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Home Arcade System

RGB said:
Hey, that's a nice PSU! Leave the switch at 220V, the real voltage range it accepts is much wider. It's 88~132VAC for switch at 110V position and 176~264VAC for 220V.

Please make sure you read the HAS instruction manual and refer to FAQ if you're unsure how to connect the PSU - https://homearcadesystem.wordpress.com/faq/
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Thank you very much!
I surely read the manual but just have a few question;
Do i have to avoid touching the PSU metal core while its powered on or i should just avoid the connectors (the screws) ?
If i want to turn it off do i need to unplug it from the socket everytime ?
Could i use the whole setup (HAS + PSU) connected to my retrotink 5x + my oled tv without issue ?
How much voltage do i need to feed on a PGM mobo ?
 
Hisoka89 said:
Thank you very much!
I surely read the manual but just have a few question;
Do i have to avoid touching the PSU metal core while its powered on or i should just avoid the connectors (the screws) ?
If i want to turn it off do i need to unplug it from the socket everytime ?
Could i use the whole setup (HAS + PSU) connected to my retrotink 5x + my oled tv without issue ?
How much voltage do i need to feed on a PGM mobo ?
Click to expand...
1. You can touch the metal housing of the PSU, but DEFINITELY do NOT touch the screws. In fact, you should look for a 3D printed cover for them. I've heard stories where children or cats have touched them to some sad endings..

2. Yes. I personally use a power strip so I can use the power strips button to make it easy. That is less wear and tear on your plug. Also, do NOT power the HAS up without a game.

3. Yup, in fact, you have the BEST TV for this case, IMHO!

4. The PGM should be cleaned, all connectors, at the JAMMA edge, and at the cart edge. I still run my PGM at around 5.05-5.10v because it seems to be a bit power hungry. I would not go over 5.15v.
 
XtraSmiley said:
1. You can touch the metal housing of the PSU, but DEFINITELY do NOT touch the screws. In fact, you should look for a 3D printed cover for them. I've heard stories where children or cats have touched them to some sad endings..

2. Yes. I personally use a power strip so I can use the power strips button to make it easy. That is less wear and tear on your plug. Also, do NOT power the HAS up without a game.

3. Yup, in fact, you have the BEST TV for this case, IMHO!

4. The PGM should be cleaned, all connectors, at the JAMMA edge, and at the cart edge. I still run my PGM at around 5.05-5.10v because it seems to be a bit power hungry. I would not go over 5.15v.
Click to expand...
Thank you for answering my questions!
Do you know where could i find a good not expansive power strip ?
Could i use the gscart sw with the setup including the retrotink 5x ?
What should i use to clean up the connectors at the jamma edge and cart edge ?
 
Hisoka89 said:
Thank you for answering my questions!
Do you know where could i find a good not expansive power strip ?
Could i use the gscart sw with the setup including the retrotink 5x ?
What should i use to clean up the connectors at the jamma edge and cart edge ?
Click to expand...
1. Anywhere they are sold. I have no idea about your country, but they look like this.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Integrate...638126839&s=electronics&sr=1-3&ts_id=10967801

2. Yes the HAS is compatible with the GSCART, I don't know for sure about the RT5X, but I don't think there would be a problem.

3. I like this for the best, but it's expensive:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-G5S-6-D..._3?keywords=dioxin+gold&qid=1638126753&sr=8-3

But rubbing alcohol or a pencil eraser works too.
 
Having an issue assuming with the HAS. Sound becomes extremely static-like after about 10 minutes of use. It happens with multiple pcbs. I’m outputting to some studio monitors, a JVC D series using a bandridge scart switch with a RGC scart cable and RGB2Comp. No other scart inputs produce the problem. Using meanwell PSU voltage typically in the 5-5.1 range. Any troubleshooting suggestions?
 
Is it RGB as in RGBHV or RGBS on the OSSC? It might require tinkering with the H-PLL Pre/Post Coast settings.

Ah, it shouldn't matter too much, but make sure the CSync setting on the HAS is set to buffered or unprocessed.
 
Did try every possible setting, still no picture. Also used RGB/Scart, no changes.
My OSSC had some repairs a few months ago maybe that changed something?
Have to try the other one tomorrow.
 
Yepp, HAS and OSSC work fine with almost all my Games (aside from some Bootlegs)
And MVS runs fine with HAS and CRT ^__^
 
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