On both systems did you power the Pi with its own, separate psu/wall adapter? Does your PSU to the 256 still have 5V? If so, and the 256 is still working it just means that a component near the molex failed that feeds it 5v. You would have to trace and test 5v line from the molex back to the psu to see what component failed. Luckily it seems that both the pi and especially the ode survived.
- Thread starter BladeZX
- Start date
mathewbeall
Champion
Very strange. When I tried to get it going - I got a molex splitter and fed the 5v/gnd into the microusb cable. So I had 5v going to the ODE via the Molex and I also had 5v going to the Rpi via the splitter. When I turned on the system, the 256 powered up, but the Rpi didn't power up at all. So I shut things down wondering if I had reversed the ground/5v (even though I had double checked it).
I then went through some gyrations and realized that 5v going to the molex wasn't there any more. So as you said @Derick2k - somehow I had kicked a fuse I think.
I then pulled out my second 256 and the exact same thing happened. I am theorizing that 5v going into the ODE from both spots isn't good - but it seems as if Blade has it hooked up that way - so I am at a bit of a loss.
I then realized that the Rpi can power the ODE via usb - so no actual need to plug the molex in at all. And since the 256 all still seems to work, I am just going to pull 5v/ground from the bottom of the motherboard right where it comes in via the connected and wire that up to the Rpi. That should be all well and good.
Matt
I then went through some gyrations and realized that 5v going to the molex wasn't there any more. So as you said @Derick2k - somehow I had kicked a fuse I think.
I then pulled out my second 256 and the exact same thing happened. I am theorizing that 5v going into the ODE from both spots isn't good - but it seems as if Blade has it hooked up that way - so I am at a bit of a loss.
I then realized that the Rpi can power the ODE via usb - so no actual need to plug the molex in at all. And since the 256 all still seems to work, I am just going to pull 5v/ground from the bottom of the motherboard right where it comes in via the connected and wire that up to the Rpi. That should be all well and good.
Matt
Dreamstate
Enthusiast
Hmmm. I wonder if he has a different revision of the ode?
Is that a feature of the ODE or revision you have? I have one of the very first odes, the one without the mounting holes, not sure if it matters.
Is there a guide posted for the ode that details all this/its usage/setup, etc..? Its been a while since I looked/used any of this stuff.
mathewbeall
Champion
I have one of the very first versions also - no holes in the ODE. I actually went yesterday and read all the information about it again, but it makes no actual mention of how you can power it.
https://issues.tattiebogle.net/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=mantis:ide_simulator:start
I just posted over on the ATAPI ODE thread to see if Electric_Monk checks that at all. What is weird is that in all my testing - having the ODE powered via the molex and the Rpi powered via a wall wart worked completely fine.
Matt
https://issues.tattiebogle.net/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=mantis:ide_simulator:start
I just posted over on the ATAPI ODE thread to see if Electric_Monk checks that at all. What is weird is that in all my testing - having the ODE powered via the molex and the Rpi powered via a wall wart worked completely fine.
Matt
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Dreamstate
Enthusiast
Just curious but would a Pi 3B+ be a drop in replacement for the Pi 3B? I can get them for the same price but I don’t want to start changing up the design. Seems like they are identical except for a small boost in power and faster network, but again, I really don’t want to have to figure out new drivers and such. Just wondering if anyone knows.
mathewbeall
Champion
Yes - I just used a Pi-3B+ and it worked fine.
Matt
Matt
mathewbeall
Champion
I just ordered another set of these - I will let you know when I get them built if anyone wants to pick one up. I use JLCPCB - its my first time using them, we will see how it goes.
Matt
Matt
mathewbeall
Champion
I did some messing around with electric_monks original holder... here is what it looks like right now - the final I will print in black PLA.
it uses 2 keystone usb-a connectors. I have some usb-a to usb-a small cables coming today - assuming those all work, I think this will be great.
I am also going to experiment today with breaking it into two parts and then gluing them together. This was all one piece - but printing the faceplate "face down" is much stronger.
it uses 2 keystone usb-a connectors. I have some usb-a to usb-a small cables coming today - assuming those all work, I think this will be great.
I am also going to experiment today with breaking it into two parts and then gluing them together. This was all one piece - but printing the faceplate "face down" is much stronger.
Attachments
mathewbeall
Champion
mathewbeall
Champion
Hi Folks - here is the official thread and files for this:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/namco-2x6-multi-tray-rev-c-kits.17661/
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/namco-2x6-multi-tray-rev-c-kits.17661/
Cheers for one less design I have to make
chacal231077
Grand Master
Hi 
Small question for the manufacture of the PCB.
Should you choose HASL (With Lead) or Lead Free HASL-RoSH for the surface finish
Thank you
Small question for the manufacture of the PCB.
Should you choose HASL (With Lead) or Lead Free HASL-RoSH for the surface finish
Thank you
Dreamstate
Enthusiast
Two quick questions. For the images, do they all need to be iso, or can they be .bin files as well? Second, how big of a micro SD is needed for the PI? Looks like a 4GB would be fine, but just making sure before I get the final pieces in.
Dreamstate
Enthusiast
Got it. Thanks, I need to order the microSD then since I don't already have one.
