@twistedsymphony looks like the same ones, from the e29 parts list. same product numbers: https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Taito_Egret_29
- Thread starter XeD
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FYI to anyone that got an NNC from this group buy. I found some non-superficial ravaged the parts that might make some functionality troublesome:
- The marquee lights were removed and replaced with some cheap under the cabinet light
- What is left is functional, but the OG one is positioned much closer to the bottom edge of the marquee holder and illuminates it better. Here is a pic of what the OG lamp fixture looks like:
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- And most importantly, check the upper cross bar on your monitor mount. The OG NNC mounting bolt is sort of open to air 3/4 of the way around it
- Here is a pic of what the OG one looks like:
- The one we got is open to air on only 2 sides
- Making it impossible to TATE these cabs without cutting the monitor frame
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Replaced this one, and one other one. All the rest tested good. Same results. :/
anyone in la area who can sell me and maybe drop off 2 arcade stools in morning? my friend is freighting my cabs finally.
I know its a tall order. so no biggy.
I know its a tall order. so no biggy.
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Very helpful post, thanks! I decided to give this a try on the coin box area of my E2 today.I hit the yellow spots on the Egret II with acetone too. Here are some pics:
Tools of the trade:
- The 100% pure acetone sold at Walmart for $2.48 a bottle
- Some left over napkins from some fried chicken joint
This stuff is pretty caustic and I have seen it melt plastic. Don't apply directly to the cab. Use some sort of applicator and keep it localized to the area you are attacking. Once off, make sure you remove any residue as it will keep active until it is removed. I used a sponge and dish soap to scrub the spot. Napkins to remove the soap.
I figured if something went horribly wrong the coin box could potentially be replaced down the line.
It's crazy how this stuff eats right through the paint. I recommend wearing some kitchen gloves or it will start bothering your hands pretty quick.
Before:
After some quick work (not done yet, I didn't want to go too crazy with it the first round):
I was mainly focused on the rattle can line going up the left side of the coin box to start.
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
Not mine, I'm afraid.
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
Man, I fully set you up for free credit. Let's try that again:
Thats some top tier crating there @[i]@rewrite[/i]
Thats some top tier crating there @[i]@rewrite[/i]
After trying three different fluorescent bulbs and a replacement starter, I finally gave up on my original ballast. It's too warped/loose and impossible to get the pins to seat right on both sides.
My LED lamp seems to be fine with the 100v step down. I screwed the old brackets right into the case, and added some bolts to the inside. Seems stable. Very happy with it! $15 on sale at home depot. (Don't mind the tape on the sides of the marquee...)
So I decided to follow @ekorz lead and got the same LED strip from Home Depot. Installation was a breeze with moving the brackets over from the original ballast.
Going to zip tie the cables down neatly like the speaker wires are done stock. It's great to finally see the illumination panel lit up!
@acblunden2 I guess PNL couldn't locate a replacement flyback for your PB7534?
I wonder what the chances are they take the same flyback as the Nanao MS2930/MS2931?
If those Chinese repro MS2931 flybacks actually work, maybe they could potentially be used to fix our original Tosh chassis.
I wonder what the chances are they take the same flyback as the Nanao MS2930/MS2931?
If those Chinese repro MS2931 flybacks actually work, maybe they could potentially be used to fix our original Tosh chassis.
Right on, I'm thinking of sending one of the Chinese MS2931 flybacks along with my PB7534 back to Sharp and see if they can give it a shot. I don't know much about the specifics of flyback design, but given that the MS2930/MS29311 is a drop in replacement chassis for the same tube and yoke, I would guess that the flyback is probably pretty similar.
Got a dead MS2931 I will also send them and they can put it in that instead otherwise.
Will await your findings with the Chinese MS2931 FB's and the PB7534 then.
On another subject, @rewrite, what is the status of your Domy Theater chassis? Still stuck on sourcing that resistor?
Resistor found and replaced. Then replaced 2 HOTs.
One of the other transistors is dead, but there are like 8 different ones on the board. Tried the paper towel tube over the ear bit to try and narrow it down. Ordered a couple more, and am waiting again on the mail.
Sounds good, may take some time but I'll post back here with how it goes.
A replacement flyback for the Windy 2 PB7534 chassis has already been found. They're being soak tested at he moment.
Grant was sent three, two dead and one within an inch of it's life. He managed to source a suitable replacement before the third died.
My chassis was in a very bad condition prior to Grant servicing it. There should be hope for most if not all of the dead W2 chassis.
Grant was sent three, two dead and one within an inch of it's life. He managed to source a suitable replacement before the third died.
My chassis was in a very bad condition prior to Grant servicing it. There should be hope for most if not all of the dead W2 chassis.
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SnakeGrunger
Professional
We might be needing 5 of them here in Montreal.
It would be very cool to build a partial reference file with all the IC's location (Q123 for ex), capacitor specs (bipolar? low esr?), manufacturer part number and description listed.
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